Issue with DCC FK35
- Thread starter blackcloud50
- Start date
The site states that the link is 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire, then gives fuse sizes used on specific gauge wires. Just subtract four from the sizes given in the table, and you have a direct comparison of what link was replaced with what fuse.
What I'm showing you is not how to pick a fusible link for 10 gauge wire, I've already done that for you with the design of the unit. What I'm showing is that a 14 gauge link would obviously not be replaced with a 15 A fuse, given an 18 gauge is replaced with a 40A fuse
What I'm showing you is not how to pick a fusible link for 10 gauge wire, I've already done that for you with the design of the unit. What I'm showing is that a 14 gauge link would obviously not be replaced with a 15 A fuse, given an 18 gauge is replaced with a 40A fuse
baskin said:
Baskin,
I appreciate your info and comparison. I am not to trying to give you a hard time or anything of that nature, just trying to understand. Reason I wanted to move away from the fusible link is that when the link melted it almost ruined some wiring next to it. Only thing that help prevent that from happening was that I had wire loom over the fusible link and over the wiring it almost damaged.
I do understand that the link is supposed to be 4 gauge sizes smaller to protect the given wire size. What I didn't realize was the fuse rating needed to replace that of any given fusible link.
So now, I know you recommend I replace the link that has melted with the 14awg fusible link as the kit comes supplied with. Underhood heat does affect fuse ratings as you mentioned earlier, but by the battery, the way my wire is run from the controller, there isn't that much of it that to be affected by underhood heat.
Hypothetically speaking, if one were to replace the fusible link supplied in the FK35 kit with that of a fuse, what would be your guess on what the fuse rating would need to be given underhood conditions and the controller's requirements??
Actually, you've got to watch that loom stuff, the real loom Ford probably uses is UL-94 rated, which means it won't sustain a fire, where some of the auto supply stuff is essentially a fuel source. Check for the UL-94-x rating if you're going to use it.
On the fuse, the same thing would have happened, but worse with the fuse (the bad crimp wouldn't have blown the fuse), since on most of the holders, the wiring also isn't UL-94. It's not mandatory for engine compartments, but for not that much extra cost, I think it's worth it to use on what I build.
If you do go with the fuse, go with the Maxi style holder and a 50A fuse, figure on every component that you put in the engine compartment that's not rated for the heat, that you need to adjust the rating by 6% for every 18 degrees F, so at an engine temp of 175, a 50A fuse is good for 50A / (1 + .06*100/18) or 37.5A continous, which should work fine.
On the fuse, the same thing would have happened, but worse with the fuse (the bad crimp wouldn't have blown the fuse), since on most of the holders, the wiring also isn't UL-94. It's not mandatory for engine compartments, but for not that much extra cost, I think it's worth it to use on what I build.
If you do go with the fuse, go with the Maxi style holder and a 50A fuse, figure on every component that you put in the engine compartment that's not rated for the heat, that you need to adjust the rating by 6% for every 18 degrees F, so at an engine temp of 175, a 50A fuse is good for 50A / (1 + .06*100/18) or 37.5A continous, which should work fine.
btw...is this the recommended type of crimper
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=360-642
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=360-642
That's the ticket, the difference between what these the auto supply store crimper will do and is night and day, the other part of the equation is the ferruled 3M crimps. With the two, you won't be able to pull the wires out with any reasonable force.
If you want, I can either send you the connectors or the entire link
If you want, I can either send you the connectors or the entire link
Well I am most likely going to opt to go the fuse route using the maxi fuse and inline holder. The inline holders use an 8 awg wire so I will need that size butt connector. I will fold the stripped end over of the 10 awg wire supplied in your kit to make a snug connection in the 8awg butt connector.
Hey Baskin,
I just wanted to say that I have only heard good things about you and your products from some of the most respected people on this board. Still, I was debating whether I really needed a controller. The fact that you take the time to actually read the boards and offer advice and help means the world to people like me, ie those who don't have that deep of an understanding of electronics, and you'll likely be hearing from me soon about a controller of my very own. Keep up the good work!
EDIT, your web site does confuse the hell out of me though. Perhaps its too late for me to be doing research.
I just wanted to say that I have only heard good things about you and your products from some of the most respected people on this board. Still, I was debating whether I really needed a controller. The fact that you take the time to actually read the boards and offer advice and help means the world to people like me, ie those who don't have that deep of an understanding of electronics, and you'll likely be hearing from me soon about a controller of my very own. Keep up the good work!
EDIT, your web site does confuse the hell out of me though. Perhaps its too late for me to be doing research.
svasica
Founding Member
Baskin, which controller do you recommned for the Mark VIII fan, the 35A or 60A unit? Also, just to get this straight, does the controllor vary the voltage output to the fan so that the speed varies with respect to the temp?
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
My Setup:
1996 Mark Viii Fan
130 amp 3G
DCC Fk35
The controller senses the temperature of the radiator and adjusts the fan speed according to the reading. So the answer to your question would be yes....
www.dccontrol.com
email @ [email protected]
Good luck!
1996 Mark Viii Fan
130 amp 3G
DCC Fk35
The controller senses the temperature of the radiator and adjusts the fan speed according to the reading. So the answer to your question would be yes....
www.dccontrol.com
email @ [email protected]
Good luck!
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