Issue with DCC FK35

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

All of a sudden I am now burning up the fusible link when driving that goes to the controller. All wiring appears to be OK. I have had the unit installed for about 8 months. This is controlling an brand new Motorcraft Taurus fan. Could the controller be spiking or at fault?

Black Sun 5.0 · Apr 21, 2006

Perhaps a short somewhere else in the system? How long have you been running the controller for?

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

Black Sun 5.0 said:
Perhaps a short somewhere else in the system? How long have you been running the controller for?

About 8 months. and hardly use car much

TheUser · Apr 21, 2006

blackcloud50 said:
I have had the unit installed for about 8 months.

Blackcloud: I would e-mail Brian Baskin (probably the guy you got it from; he designed it). He can probably help you out more than us. Sounds like the unit is might be faulty. Too bad the warrenty is only for 90 days parts and labor.

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

TheUser said:
Blackcloud: I would e-mail Brian Baskin (probably the guy you got it from; he designed it). He can probably help you out more than us. Sounds like the unit is might be faulty. Too bad the warrenty is only for 90 days parts and labor.

I did purchase from him. I suppose I will send him an email.

Does anyone know how much current a Taurus fan draws on initial startup (high speed) without the use of the dccontroller? Also how much current the fan draws at max running speed?

baskin · Apr 21, 2006

Is the link getting hot or is it breaking? The Taurus is 110 at start, the highest I've measured continuously is 37. It'll draw a lot more current if both the low and high are connected. The controller will limit the current spike to 50A, even if you slam it full on

stang8urimport · Apr 21, 2006

Wow, I've seen lots of problems with these things recently. Sucks.

baskin · Apr 21, 2006

Really; I must be having problems with the search function, can you provide some links?

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

baskin said:
Is the link getting hot or is it breaking? The Taurus is 110 at start, the highest I've measured continuously is 37. It'll draw a lot more current if both the low and high are connected. The controller will limit the current spike to 50A, even if you slam it full on

The link overheated and melted. I then replaced it with a 30 amp inline fuse that lasted about 20 minutes till the fuse popped. Only the high speed is connected.

What I did notice is that after the fusible link melted (b4 replacing with inline fuse) I was far away from home...So I connected the wire directly to the battery but fan still wouldnt turn on. I had car towed to my friends shop where he ran direct power to the fan and it was working fine. He said he touch the temp probe connection at the controller and then the fan started to work.

What size fusible link or fuse should be inline to battery?

srothfuss · Apr 21, 2006

Nick, are you refering to my thread? In the end, it was my fault that the control failed. There wouldn't have been anything wrong with my controller except I used a bad alternator (should have tested it before I put it on) and it cooked the box. I take all of the blame for that... Baskin's controller is still top notch and he went out of his way to help me. LXwants 12's was also operator error if I read that thread right...

lxwants12's · Apr 21, 2006

yea mine is operator error i guess since i didnt specify that its working...i am just starting to think its more of a hassle.....and if he had it on his car for 8 months...then i dunno if i wanna keep mine and not have dependibilty......its an expensive unit.....and i bought it instead of another adjust. temp controller that i know work well for less then half the cost.....so im gonna order the filter this weekend and connect it as baskin said and if it doesnt work out for me then i will ask Baskin for a refund...

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

srothfuss said:
There wouldn't have been anything wrong with my controller except I used a bad alternator (should have tested it before I put it on) and it cooked the box.

How so? A current spike from the alternator should have protected the controller via the fusible link supplied with the controller kit, correct?

baskin · Apr 21, 2006

Black cloud; a 30 A fuse won't work, a fuse has a negative temperature coefficient of -6% for every 18 degrees F, so the 30A fuse is good for less thqan 20A @180F, If you have a kragens or checker auto there, they have the 14 gauge link. Fold the end of the 14 gauge over so that it will fit correctly in the 12 gauge splice, and you should be good to go.

A fusible link or a fuse will protect wiring and that's about it.

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

baskin said:
Black cloud; a 30 A fuse won't work, a fuse has a negative temperature coefficient of -6% for every 18 degrees F, so the 30A fuse is good for less thqan 20A @180F, If you have a kragens or checker auto there, they have the 14 gauge link. Fold the end of the 14 gauge over so that it will fit correctly in the 12 gauge splice, and you should be good to go.

A fusible link or a fuse will protect wiring and that's about it.

OK..so i need to splice in a 14awg link to replace inline fuse.

1. Any thoughts on why it may have burned to begin with? Or why when connected directly to battery the fan still did not turn on?

2. Can't I just use a bigger fuse than the 30 instead of the link?

srothfuss · Apr 21, 2006

Mine was an overvoltage not a overamperage. All of my wiring is fine, the fuse-link is still intact, but the alternator supplied too much voltage for 2 weeks straight. I am kind of glad that I had the failure, bucause it pointed out a problem that I wouldn't have checked on my own (bad practice)

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

srothfuss said:
Mine was an overvoltage not a overamperage. All of my wiring is fine, the fuse-link is still intact, but the alternator supplied too much voltage for 2 weeks straight. I am kind of glad that I had the failure, bucause it pointed out a problem that I wouldn't have checked on my own (bad practice)

I thought your multimeter measured voltage within range when output was measured at the battery

srothfuss · Apr 21, 2006

The spec is 13.8 - 14.4... I was seeing 14.8/14.9 so i took it in for testing. The regulator was faulty so I'm thinking that the warmer my car got the worse the regulation was on the alternator voltage...

The day of the failure: Everything went bad after a 1/2 hour drive home from work. It's kind of ironic, that a guy in a black aero nose GT was showing off next to me on the way home and I thought his car sounded really bad. See what I get for frowning on another guys Mustang! My alternator was getting back at me...

blackcloud50 · Apr 21, 2006

using a bigger inline fuse would greatly help out if I do have some other issue with why the fusible link melted. I don't want to keep cutting out and splicing in links.

Is using a bigger fuse at all an option?

baskin · Apr 21, 2006

Frank; there's over a thousand units out there. There are three negative posts, this one, which can be resolved by replacing the fuse with a link. A car with a bad alternator, which is really no ones fault other than the manufacturer of the alternator, and yours, which is missing a necessary accessory.

Now, if you ask srothfuss how I dealt with his unit, he'll tell you that I looked at his install, told him that the symptoms indicated a voltage breakdown, but that I saw nothing wrong with his install,. I then told him that it could possibly be my fault, and offered a new unit byway of express mail.

I can also tell you that from this, all of the units shipped this week were specifically tested for voltage breakdown, that destructive tests have been done on the part's most likely to break down, and that I found all of these parts and units to be well in spec, with a breakdown voltage of over 30V. I told him that I would run his new unit over a 24 hr period before shipping it. I've gone further than that, what I've done instead is tested an un-potted unit as if it a prototype, in that I've not only checked overall performance, but also verified on this and nine other units that all of the internal circuit voltages are correct..

In my opinion, failure rate is certainly important, but what is just as important is how a vender deals with these. Make no mistake, sooner or later I will have a or some failures, everyone does. Now, you can either see srothfuss’ unit as a negative, or consider how I’ve dealt with what was essentially a false alarm as a positive. I don’t know of any other vender who takes the time to put in this amount of effort in order to prevent field failures.

The irony here is that neither srothfuss or myself tried to lay blame on the other person, and in fact both assumed responsibility when it was in the end neither one of our faults, while poopdawg, who has never owned or even seen a unit is on the sidelines pointing his finger. If his opinion means more to you than what’s stated by the people involved, then by all means, pack your unit up and send it back.

lxwants12's · Apr 21, 2006

ok there Baskin relax im not blaming you at all....just that i have had nothin but problems with mine...did i ever say your customer service isnt good...no..you have pm me and helped me and i appreciate it, like i said before i will order this filter, if it doesnt work then i will ask you for a refund. I am not a person of conflict and dont expect it from any1 towards me on the site or i wouldnt be on here and dealing with that ****. I, like you do not have time for bull****

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