Issue with DCC FK35

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

baskin said:
Here's a page comparing fuse size vs link size

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html

10 gauge is correct

I am looking at the page but I don't see the comparable fuse size for 14awg fusible link

baskin · Apr 23, 2006

The site states that the link is 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire, then gives fuse sizes used on specific gauge wires. Just subtract four from the sizes given in the table, and you have a direct comparison of what link was replaced with what fuse.

What I'm showing you is not how to pick a fusible link for 10 gauge wire, I've already done that for you with the design of the unit. What I'm showing is that a 14 gauge link would obviously not be replaced with a 15 A fuse, given an 18 gauge is replaced with a 40A fuse

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

baskin said:
The site states that the link is 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire, then gives fuse sizes used on specific gauge wires. Just subtract four from the sizes given in the table, and you have a direct comparison of what link was replaced with what fuse.

What I'm showing you is not how to pick a fusible link for 10 gauge wire, I've already done that for you with the design of the unit. What I'm showing is that a 14 gauge link would obviously not be replaced with a 15 A fuse, given an 18 gauge is replaced with a 40A fuse

Baskin,
I appreciate your info and comparison. I am not to trying to give you a hard time or anything of that nature, just trying to understand. Reason I wanted to move away from the fusible link is that when the link melted it almost ruined some wiring next to it. Only thing that help prevent that from happening was that I had wire loom over the fusible link and over the wiring it almost damaged.

I do understand that the link is supposed to be 4 gauge sizes smaller to protect the given wire size. What I didn't realize was the fuse rating needed to replace that of any given fusible link.

So now, I know you recommend I replace the link that has melted with the 14awg fusible link as the kit comes supplied with. Underhood heat does affect fuse ratings as you mentioned earlier, but by the battery, the way my wire is run from the controller, there isn't that much of it that to be affected by underhood heat.

Hypothetically speaking, if one were to replace the fusible link supplied in the FK35 kit with that of a fuse, what would be your guess on what the fuse rating would need to be given underhood conditions and the controller's requirements??

baskin · Apr 23, 2006

Actually, you've got to watch that loom stuff, the real loom Ford probably uses is UL-94 rated, which means it won't sustain a fire, where some of the auto supply stuff is essentially a fuel source. Check for the UL-94-x rating if you're going to use it.

On the fuse, the same thing would have happened, but worse with the fuse (the bad crimp wouldn't have blown the fuse), since on most of the holders, the wiring also isn't UL-94. It's not mandatory for engine compartments, but for not that much extra cost, I think it's worth it to use on what I build.

If you do go with the fuse, go with the Maxi style holder and a 50A fuse, figure on every component that you put in the engine compartment that's not rated for the heat, that you need to adjust the rating by 6% for every 18 degrees F, so at an engine temp of 175, a 50A fuse is good for 50A / (1 + .06*100/18) or 37.5A continous, which should work fine.

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

Thank you very much

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

btw...is this the recommended type of crimper
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=360-642

baskin · Apr 23, 2006

That's the ticket, the difference between what these the auto supply store crimper will do and is night and day, the other part of the equation is the ferruled 3M crimps. With the two, you won't be able to pull the wires out with any reasonable force.

If you want, I can either send you the connectors or the entire link

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

baskin said:
If you want, I can either send you the connectors or the entire link

You mean the butt connectors? I appreciate the offer but I can get them. Anything special about them other than a standard butt connector from the store?

baskin · Apr 23, 2006

They're just higher grade (thicker copper, with an internal ferrul) and they're UL-94, but even one from the hardware store will be pretty decent with the correct crimper.

blackcloud50 · Apr 23, 2006

Well I am most likely going to opt to go the fuse route using the maxi fuse and inline holder. The inline holders use an 8 awg wire so I will need that size butt connector. I will fold the stripped end over of the 10 awg wire supplied in your kit to make a snug connection in the 8awg butt connector.

blackcloud50 · Apr 26, 2006

baskin said:
That's the ticket, the difference between what these the auto supply store crimper will do and is night and day, the other part of the equation is the ferruled 3M crimps. With the two, you won't be able to pull the wires out with any reasonable force.

If you want, I can either send you the connectors or the entire link

Baskin, I'd like to use your wiring. How much would it be for me to get part # WL-10? And how soon can I get it? Thanks

baskin · Apr 26, 2006

Do you need the whole loom or just the link? You can order the whole loom on the accessories page, I can get it there in a few days

Andres2882 · Apr 27, 2006

Hey Baskin,

I just wanted to say that I have only heard good things about you and your products from some of the most respected people on this board. Still, I was debating whether I really needed a controller. The fact that you take the time to actually read the boards and offer advice and help means the world to people like me, ie those who don't have that deep of an understanding of electronics, and you'll likely be hearing from me soon about a controller of my very own. Keep up the good work!

EDIT, your web site does confuse the hell out of me though. Perhaps its too late for me to be doing research.

blackcloud50 · Apr 27, 2006

baskin said:
Do you need the whole loom or just the link? You can order the whole loom on the accessories page, I can get it there in a few days

I want the whole loom. Thanks

blackcloud50 · Jun 21, 2006

Just an update..Controller is working fine after I replaced fusible link with 40 amp Maxi fuse.

svasica · Jul 8, 2006

Baskin, which controller do you recommned for the Mark VIII fan, the 35A or 60A unit? Also, just to get this straight, does the controllor vary the voltage output to the fan so that the speed varies with respect to the temp?

srothfuss · Jul 8, 2006

My Setup:
1996 Mark Viii Fan
130 amp 3G
DCC Fk35

The controller senses the temperature of the radiator and adjusts the fan speed according to the reading. So the answer to your question would be yes....

www.dccontrol.com

email @ support@dccontrol.com

Good luck!

Issue with DCC FK35

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