Issue with power windows on 2000 Coupe

Do you have a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) or test light and are you prepared to use it? If so some detailed test at the GEM would be needed to narrow down where the problem is.

I would also perform a through visual inspection of the wiring harness where it passed through the door jam.

Further it would help to know for certain that the windows motor actually work by powering directly from an alternate power source.

El_shawnzo said:

I'm not as educated at this stuff as I wish I was.

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Here's your chance to learn and save some real $$ in the process.

El_shawnzo said:

II know what the GEM is, but not where

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Behind the dash slightly left of center. Yes. It's true. It's a PIA to access.

El_shawnzo said:

Could it be what's causing the power locks on the driver's side to fail, too?

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Yes it's possible. Water is one common reason for failed GEM modules. The other is bad or weak grounds. There is a ground behind the center console that is very important to many systems located in the dash. It is shared by the radio and is frequently messed up during a radio install.

El_shawnzo said:

I also do not have a VOM.

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IMO without something to test an electrical circuit with the chances of fixing this are very low. It will fall to happen stance finding a wiring fault by visual inspection (not a bad idea to always perform a visual inspection in addition). Or fixing by "parts changing" and luck. I try to encourage everyone to do more testing and less part changing for diagnostic reasons.

I recommend using a test light AND VOM. I use a made test light that was not very $$. I have included some information on how to make your own if $$ is tight.

El_shawnzo said:

Additionally, how would I power the motor from an alternate power source? I've read that people use 12V batteries, but not how they did it.

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There are several methods. Including but not limited to:

• An extra battery
• An old school battery charger. Not the new ones that protect against hooking up backwards
• a set of long fused jumpers hooked directly to the battery.
• an "add a fuse" or "add a circuit" on an "always on" exiting circuit.

How To Make Your Own Test Lights
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L_fw7xn19k

How about starting with a visual inspection using the "Mark I" eyeball? You already know where the radio is. The ground behind the center console is a collection of wires that come together under a single bolt. So this could be any number of wires "pulled" free or otherwise damaged.

Again if this were my car I would start with the visual inspection. Perform any repairs needed. And then TEST to CONFIRM that the grounds really are able to carry a load back to battery positive. This will take 100% of the guess work out of this.

So you have taken the radio out and followed the separate black wires right?

Or how about taking the cluster out and just measure the quality of the ground using the methods given. Then you will KNOW for certain one way or the other.

Please look through the following link for information on how to test grounds using a test light.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Note, quitting for an unknown reason with restart with no apparent problems is a prime symptom of a charging system problem. Usually battery related.

"There is no elevator to success. You have to take the steps!"