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It runs, but it over heats. No rear coolant crossover in intake the problem?

  • Thread starter Thread starter badsnakeii
  • Start date Start date Sep 10, 2010
B

badsnakeii

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May 1, 2007
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Sep 10, 2010
#1
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #1
Ill make it short and sweet. I need to know if i need a special water pump to run an edelbrock rpm airgap with no rear water crossover? Or could it be the thermostat? Why is there no rear water crossover?

It never got over the normal zone, but it was hot and the rad was cool.

Ill check the thermostat tomorrow but i hope someone can tell me if it is the intake or not.

Thanks again guys.
 

woodsnake

15 Year Member
Jan 16, 2007
1,352
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69
Hicksville, NY
Sep 11, 2010
#2
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #2
Short answer is no. The intake is not the problem. Could be the thermostat failed, Could be air in the system. One of the best kept secrets in the auto world, is the trick to drill a tiny hole in the top of the thermostat. I mean a small, 11/32"~ish hole, so the motor can burp itself easier. Not up into the area that seals the intake to the water outlet, but in the flat area, in between, towards the top.
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
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79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Sep 11, 2010
#3
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #3
It is not the design of the intake and a different water pump will give similar results. The Ford engine is designed so that coolant enters the block from the front, goes to the rear, then up to the heads where it is pushed to the front. That will keep it from having hot spots. Some people have tried to connect the rear 2 water ports, but with mixed results. Your problem is elsewhere.

What was done prior to this--where the head gaskets changed? What is the condition of the radiator? Could the bottom hose be collapsing?
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
Founding Member
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Sep 11, 2010
#4
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #4
You said the engine was hot and the radiator was cool, could you have installed the thermostat backwards?
 
B

badsnakeii

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May 1, 2007
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#5
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #5
maybe... Spring goes into the manifold right?
Thanks again guys.
 
P

Pony66

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Sep 11, 2010
#6
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #6
badsnakeii said:
maybe... Spring goes into the manifold right?
Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...

You are correct. And the little hole goes to the top. I think your clue is that you rad. was cool and engine hot. You can test your thermostat by putting it in a pan of water on the stove. You will see it open. Its easy to get a faulty new thermostat.

Like previous poster stated, do you have the spring in the lower hose?
 

rbohm

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Apr 12, 2002
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Sep 11, 2010
#7
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #7
start by pulling the thermostat out, and see what kind of coolant flow you have through the radiator. rev the engine and see if it slows down as the engine speeds up, if it does then you have a lower hose problem. if not then take the car for a drive without the thermostat, if it still gets too hot, then you have an issue elsewhere.
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 11, 2010
#8
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #8
Might want to also verify the head gaskets are installed correctly also. There's a tab that sticks out covering one corner of the block deck in the front. If the gasket is sticking out covering the block deck the gasket is installed correctly.
 
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badsnakeii

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Sep 12, 2010
#9
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #9
Gaskets are in right then good to know. Pulled the thermostat and it opens when the water is getting to a hard boil. The bad news is the lower hose does not have the spring in it. I do not know why it was a top of the line replacement. So that is probably part of the problem. I dont know if i like the thermostat opening at a hard boil though. Its a 195 temp so it should be a good one.. I have no way to test if its opening at 195 or higher.
Thanks again guys.
 

Cobra5.0Jeep

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Sep 13, 2010
#10
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #10
Where was the radiator cool at?
In the center? Your radiator could be clogged...
 

Cobra5.0Jeep

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Sep 13, 2010
#11
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #11
badsnakeii said:
Gaskets are in right then good to know. Pulled the thermostat and it opens when the water is getting to a hard boil. The bad news is the lower hose does not have the spring in it. I do not know why it was a top of the line replacement. So that is probably part of the problem. I dont know if i like the thermostat opening at a hard boil though. Its a 195 temp so it should be a good one.. I have no way to test if its opening at 195 or higher.
Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...

Remember the coolant is under pressure in your cooling system so its boiling temp is a lot higher in the engine than in normal atmospheric pressure.
 

latamud

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
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Tampa, FL
Sep 13, 2010
#12
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #12
For the spring in the lower hose, I take a thin stainless steel rod and coil it over something about the same diameter as the inside of the lower hose. Then I feed it into the lower hose. In the pat I've used wire cot hangers but they rust bad and had one brake and a chunk got sucked into a water pump.
 
B

badsnakeii

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Sep 13, 2010
#13
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #13
When it was hot it was on the top 1/8 inch of the gauge. It never topped out but that was because i was bathing it with luke warm watter tryin to cool it off. It was too hot for my liking any way its put though
 

Dark Knight

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Sep 13, 2010
#14
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #14
Try a 180* thermostat. If the guage is in the normal range, it may not be hot enough to open the 195* one. Also, correct rotation pump?
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
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Sep 13, 2010
#15
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #15
Hey woodsnake,
Not to give you a hard time, but you said:

"One of the best kept secrets in the auto world, is the trick to drill a tiny hole in the top of the thermostat. I mean a small, 11/32"~ish hole"

11/32" is almost 3/8" and does equate to a "small hole" in my thinking.

I realize that it was likely a simple typo. Just sayin'.
My $.02,
Gene
 

woodsnake

15 Year Member
Jan 16, 2007
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Sep 13, 2010
#16
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #16
Well, there you go.
That's why I have a disclaimer in my signature bock....
 
B

badsnakeii

New Member
May 1, 2007
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Sep 13, 2010
#17
  • Sep 13, 2010
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Haha
Lol
Anyway i cannot find a spring anywhere.
I am going to try my ford dealer.
Thanks again
 
R

rsweld

Member
Dec 30, 2009
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St. Marys, GA.
Sep 13, 2010
#18
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #18
When was the last time the Rad was cleaned? I put a Brand New Rad in my 65 289 and after 30 days and about 300 miles it started to run really hot. I thought no way could the new Rad be clogged, I replaced the Hoses, water pump thermostat and head gaskets to no avail. still over heated. Finally my Wife convinced me to take the New Rad to a radiator shop to have it cleaned. It was so plugged that they had to dis-assemble it and rod it out, just a few bucks shy of what another Rad would have cost. I re-installed the Rad. and found a GANO Filter (Coolant Filter) that goes in the return hose to the Rad. and its cleanable. I bought it put it in along with a 165 thermostat. Guess what no more overheating in fact the temp needle just moves up to the second line approx. 1/8 of full scale even on these Hot S. Georgia summer days (even when cruising through parades which we do a Lot of.) I clean the filter every 2 months and still get Crud into the filter 3 years later. By the way I had the same syptoms that you have. Good Luck.

Ron
 
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