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Build Thread Jamee's Build Up Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jamee
  • Start date Start date Mar 26, 2010
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Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
1,644
3
38
Marlborough, MA
Aug 25, 2010
#241
  • Aug 25, 2010
  • #241
Jamee said:
The cam is stock, yes, but I like room for upgrades, and it's not like I can't change things in the future if wanted!
Click to expand...

I agree MS is over kill... however, I seem to recall a thread that had Don LaSota contributing that mentioned he would change around 60 parameters even if the car was completely stock!

Adam
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Aug 25, 2010
#242
  • Aug 25, 2010
  • #242
what would be the point in getting a tune for a couple hundred or getting a tweecer for $500 when I can get an entire ECM for 200+/- and program it all myself?
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 25, 2010
#243
  • Aug 25, 2010
  • #243
Quarter horse $249
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Aug 25, 2010
#244
  • Aug 25, 2010
  • #244
Adam95GT said:
Quarter horse $249
Click to expand...

ty, I'll look into that
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Aug 26, 2010
#245
  • Aug 26, 2010
  • #245
I've looked around with no luck, is there anyway to change the tachometer in the v6 gaues to work for the v8?
And my push rods are too short, they're 6.25" but tightening the rocker to 20lbs leaves play in there. How do I figure out the right length of push rod to use?
 

alleymad95GT

Member
Jul 14, 2009
204
0
16
Okemos, Michigan
Aug 26, 2010
#246
  • Aug 26, 2010
  • #246
Setting Pushrods Length, Quick and Easy- Car Craft Magazine
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 9, 2010
#247
  • Sep 9, 2010
  • #247
alleymad95GT said:
Setting Pushrods Length, Quick and Easy- Car Craft Magazine
Click to expand...

I don't have roller rockers so that method didn't work , but thankyou

question: what's the hole on the passenger front side of the intake? do I just plug it?
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 10, 2010
#248
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #248
"jamee's thread is so 5 months ago"
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 15, 2010
#249
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #249
so... clooose....
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Sep 15, 2010
#250
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #250
Looking good!

From what I can see you may have some issues with your pulleys all lining up correctly. I see a mixture of SN95 and Fox bracketry and accessories, which both had different pulley spacing from the block. I'm sure you can come up with a solution if this problem arises though.
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 15, 2010
#251
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #251
The_Mustang said:
Looking good!

From what I can see you may have some issues with your pulleys all lining up correctly. I see a mixture of SN95 and Fox bracketry and accessories, which both had different pulley spacing from the block. I'm sure you can come up with a solution if this problem arises though.
Click to expand...

alternator is the only accessory that's from a mustang, rest are from a truck, so hopefully I won't have issues
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Sep 16, 2010
#252
  • Sep 16, 2010
  • #252
Jamee said:
alternator is the only accessory that's from a mustang, rest are from a truck, so hopefully I won't have issues
Click to expand...

Looks like you're making great progress thus far. Don't get too excited though, as the details you have left will prove to be 90% of the entire project. All the small things like vacuum lines, power steering, A/C, fuel system, ignition coil, the massive amount of wiring etc. will bog it down, so just be ready to deal with that. Then it has to crank and start up.

I'm really impressed by this project, but it's a colossal project for sure. I'd really like to see it followed through with and I would like to see how cheaply you can get it done. So far you look like you've done better than most would on the money spending part
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 16, 2010
#253
  • Sep 16, 2010
  • #253
Zero Signal said:
Looks like you're making great progress thus far. Don't get too excited though, as the details you have left will prove to be 90% of the entire project. All the small things like vacuum lines, power steering, A/C, fuel system, ignition coil, the massive amount of wiring etc. will bog it down, so just be ready to deal with that. Then it has to crank and start up.

I'm really impressed by this project, but it's a colossal project for sure. I'd really like to see it followed through with and I would like to see how cheaply you can get it done. So far you look like you've done better than most would on the money spending part
Click to expand...
$3100 so far, but I've ordered cosmetic things that aren't necessary (wheels, taillights, projector headlights etc)
any idea where I should mount my coil? I can't mount it like the typical mustangs because I have a different accessory setup, and the prior engine setup mounted it next to the intake, which is now covered by the explorer intake:
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Sep 16, 2010
#254
  • Sep 16, 2010
  • #254
You can probably just keep it where it's at and bend that bracket down away from the plenum or mod it to mount to the shock tower or something. You'll need to modify the driver side branch of the engine wiring harness in order to route the coil power/signal plug to the new location.


Also, I noticed that you capped off the heater line hole in the lower intake behind the t-stat housing and relocated the temp sensor. Where did you put the other temp sensor?
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 17, 2010
#255
  • Sep 17, 2010
  • #255
Zero Signal said:
You can probably just keep it where it's at and bend that bracket down away from the plenum or mod it to mount to the shock tower or something. You'll need to modify the driver side branch of the engine wiring harness in order to route the coil power/signal plug to the new location.


Also, I noticed that you capped off the heater line hole in the lower intake behind the t-stat housing and relocated the temp sensor. Where did you put the other temp sensor?
Click to expand...

The temp sensor went into the intake manifold on the driver's side. Are there 2 temp sensors? My harness doesn't have a wire for one right there..

Mocked up some fog lights


Need to fix ground wire, figure out throttle linkage, install steering pump, then install radiator and hoses etc
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Sep 18, 2010
#256
  • Sep 18, 2010
  • #256
There is a water temp sender (for your gauge) which is on the driver side, then an ECT (for the computer to read). which goes in the hole near the thermostat housing.
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Sep 18, 2010
#257
  • Sep 18, 2010
  • #257
The plug for the gauge sensor is small, just like the one that plugs into the oil pressure sender behind the water pump. It's not critical to getting the motor started, but you will need it nonetheless. If you don't see a plug floating around in there, I have to wonder what harness you're using?
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Sep 20, 2010
#258
  • Sep 20, 2010
  • #258
Jamee, do us a favor and I've noticed you have done this throughout this build. Please don't go back and edit your posts when you've asked questions (like edit the pics/questions out of the post) as it makes it difficult for us to go back and remember what the discussion is about. For instance, I know there was a pic of your engine up there with a question about the locations of sensors/plugs. We can't get a good visual of what you're working with now because you've gotten rid of the picture.

Now, every single EFI engine since the beginning of EFI in the 80's has used an Engine Coolant Temp (ect) sensor. The computer must use this VERY ACCURATE sensor to adjust A/F ratios and such. The other sensor/sending unit is merely for monitoring your engines temp for the driver, it doesn't have to be accurate down to a degree point. This is why when that ECT sensor goes bad it can wreak all kinds of havoc on performance/drivability especially in our cars!

Somewhere on your harness is a plug for that other ECT sensor. If you don't have that sensor, go to the parts place and get one, then look for a plug on the harness that will fit it. You can also look up the vehicle that motor came out of and see where it's ECT sensor was because sometimes its in a different location.
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Sep 20, 2010
#259
  • Sep 20, 2010
  • #259
It looks like the ECT is there, it's just mounted where the temp sender goes. The ECT plug is hanging there too, but the wiring there doesn't look factory (it's much longer), so it must have been modified or it's the wrong harness ( I hope it's the right harness).
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Sep 20, 2010
#260
  • Sep 20, 2010
  • #260
ohhhh okay
you guys are talking about the temp SENSOR (not sender), on the explorer intake that's on the driver's side so I extended the wires to work over there, as for the temp SENDER, I'm going to assume that goes on the passenger side?
 
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