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Build Thread Jamee's Build Up Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jamee
  • Start date Start date Mar 26, 2010
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seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
2,417
4
48
DFW
Nov 23, 2010
#381
  • Nov 23, 2010
  • #381
Are you just waiting on shipping for those coolant lines or did the other person fall through?

if you run those lines, you'll also need 2 special hoses at the rear. The lines end back towards the firewall, much lower than than the heater core. The factory hoses then loop up like a roller coaster to connect to the heater core. Also, the back of the lines attach using one of the lower intake mounting bolts with a special bolt/stud fastener. If you didn't use the bolt/stud fastener in the right location, it's not the end of the world, but the only thing holding the lines down will be the fitting at the front.

I see you already found a brass fitting collar to go in the lower to plug it. If those lines fall through and/or you don't feel like messing with those heater tubes, you can very cheaply put together a solution with brass fittings and some heater hose.

I ran in to a problem where the stock lines wouldn't fit my intake, and someone else posted a picture of their solution which I'll share here. They used a T fitting to provide a spot for the ECT as well as allow a run to the heater core.



My solution is slightly different because my aftermarket water neck has a provision for the ECT, so I just used an elbow and a barbed fitting.

elbow


barbed hose fitting


mocked up


Here are what the heater lines look like, you can see the bracket on the back where they bolt to the lower intake manifold. SN95 style is on top, foxbody style is on the bottom. They place the ECT in different locations. Please excuse the mangled foxbody bracket.

 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,303
1,647
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 23, 2010
#382
  • Nov 23, 2010
  • #382
Your solution is much better than the first one. The first one positions the sensor too far away from the water flow. The sensor must penetrate into a flowing passage of water. If it is recessed into an eleborate collection of T's and adapters like the first guy has, the water will stagnate around the sensor, and it won't get an accurate reading.

Kurt
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Nov 28, 2010
#383
  • Nov 28, 2010
  • #383
thanks for the good pictures
I have the coolant line mounted, just waiting on the rear and 1 front coolant hoses. Is it just me or am I always waiting on parts? lol
Thanks for the coolant tubing btw.

Been working on the wiring while waiting for coolant hoses.
Here's the switches to control things such as DRL fog lights, lows on with highs, halos, led's, etc

high beams, low beam ballasts aren't plugged in yet, waiting to do a lot of wiring underneath the car at once
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 2, 2010
#384
  • Dec 2, 2010
  • #384
STILL WAITING ON THE COOLANT HOSES.
Ordered them the 16th, called and they didn't ship until the day I called, which was the 30th. Should get them tomorrow (2nd) thank god. Unfortunately we received some snow here lol
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 27, 2010
#385
  • Dec 27, 2010
  • #385
Have the coolant hoses in, replacing the entire stock speakers, will have pictures.
Radiator fan rubs on waterpump pulley, what do?
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Dec 28, 2010
#386
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #386
The problem you have now is your brackets and timing cover aren't the correct ones for this style Mustang. The reason they had to bring the accessories closer to the motor was because they moved the motor forward in the engine bay. And since the basic dimensions of the unibody are the same as a fox, moving the engine forward using the standard timing cover and accessories creates interference problems as you are having now. You have a couple options at this point.

Option A: swap all your accessories and brackets/timing cover to 94/95 stuff. or B: you can modify your radiator brackets so that the radiator sits further toward the front of the car.

Another option is to buy a "pusher" fan and mount it in between the radiator and bumper.
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 28, 2010
#387
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #387
The_Mustang said:
The problem you have now is your brackets and timing cover aren't the correct ones for this style Mustang. The reason they had to bring the accessories closer to the motor was because they moved the motor forward in the engine bay. And since the basic dimensions of the unibody are the same as a fox, moving the engine forward using the standard timing cover and accessories creates interference problems as you are having now. You have a couple options at this point.

Option A: swap all your accessories and brackets/timing cover to 94/95 stuff. or B: you can modify your radiator brackets so that the radiator sits further toward the front of the car.

Another option is to buy a "pusher" fan and mount it in between the radiator and bumper.
Click to expand...
thankyou for the ideas
the thing that perplexes me is I ordered a 94 mustang timing cover/water pump
so I don't exactly follow what's going on I guess
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Dec 28, 2010
#388
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #388
Then yes, that's odd!
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Dec 28, 2010
#389
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #389
Ok, after searching back in your thread I came across this image:



That water pump is definately not a 94/95 pump. The snout on it is way too long! You can do a search on ebay and summit and see what a 94/95 pump is supposed to look like. And since you can't mix and match Fox style pumps with 94 timing covers, you'll have the wrong timing cover as well. I'd be asking the people you ordered it from why they gave you the wrong parts if I were you!

Edit: just wanted to add that if you did in fact have the correct 94 timing cover/water pump, the rest of your accessories would not have lined up! This setup was basically only used where the motor was installed in tight engine bays ie: Mustangs, T-birds and later Explorers/Mountaineers.
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 28, 2010
#390
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #390
The_Mustang said:
Then yes, that's odd!
Click to expand...

Nevermind, I definetly ordered the older style cover/waterpump now that I look at it, so I really shouldn't be too surprised
Guess I'll make this work.
Installed 3 tweeters in each front door, replacing stock speakers and adding one to the pillar pod mirror cover thingy.

box with 2 6.5" 150watt RMS a piece speakers in a .533 cubic foot box filled with polyfill to increase size to .733 and port is tuned to 68 hz but still hits 52hz very nicely (it's just to fill in the mids where the sub won't produce) 6.5's will have their own amp and be on the rear channel, tweeters will be on the front channel for proper stage balancing




Waiting on friend to come over to help me mount it...
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 28, 2010
#391
  • Dec 28, 2010
  • #391
and I couldn't find the proper accessory brackets to begin with, so I just used what I had because they'd clear the hood fine
Annoyances: Coil will not mount where it's originally supposed to because of intake manifold blocks original location for truck 302's and the accessories do not have the bracket for it either.

I'll just have to decide what to do. Granted it is winter here, I can just go take it to get an exhaust job then decide what to do with the fan, since it's not necessary right this minute
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 30, 2010
#392
  • Dec 30, 2010
  • #392
I had to replace the waterpump, I had the truck waterpump which was leaking but the 93 mustang waterpump fixed it. It's running great now, exhaust job hopefully within the next week, need to finish up some wiring (as usual) and mount the speaker boxes in the rear
also, I got the waterpump to clear the fan, so that's all worked out.
Thermostat housing leaked so I had to fix that also
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Dec 30, 2010
#393
  • Dec 30, 2010
  • #393
Damn ain't that thing on the road yet
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 30, 2010
#394
  • Dec 30, 2010
  • #394
MysteryMachine said:
Damn ain't that thing on the road yet
Click to expand...

lol yeah yeah, I'm slow, I know. Just always seems I'm waiting on parts or waiting on something else...
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 31, 2010
#395
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #395
Finished alarm wiring, engine runs great now, need to finish mounting woofer box, was going to instead of wiring but cutoff wheel was stuck on so I went with finishing wiring.
I'm surprised how far these viper systems work. I mounted the antenna on the roof inside the pillar, I walked down the street a long ways and still had reception, interested to see the distance cut off of it.
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Dec 31, 2010
#396
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #396
I have a viper remote start/alarm on my Ram. I can start the truck like 2 miles away (sometimes). People are always like damn how far away can you do that?
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 31, 2010
#397
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #397
MysteryMachine said:
I have a viper remote start/alarm on my Ram. I can start the truck like 2 miles away (sometimes). People are always like damn how far away can you do that?
Click to expand...

nice
I have a 2-way viper system also without the remote but the remote is like $50.. and not sure remote start without an actual neutral safety switch would be very bright or not.
Is yours 2-way?
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Dec 31, 2010
#398
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #398
Yeah it's the 5901 with the lcd remote. My truck is auto so I don't gotta worry about that. Definitely worth the money, I love it. One of these days I want to get a video of it.
 

Jamee

Member
Mar 12, 2010
260
0
16
Mid Florida
Dec 31, 2010
#399
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #399
MysteryMachine said:
Yeah it's the 5901 with the lcd remote. My truck is auto so I don't gotta worry about that. Definitely worth the money, I love it. One of these days I want to get a video of it.
Click to expand...

lol video of it starting from so far away?
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Dec 31, 2010
#400
  • Dec 31, 2010
  • #400
Haha no just of it starting and stuff period
 
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