Progress Thread Jeep CJ7 wit a 5oh

Here is the jeep and the motor I need to work on.....
 

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Thanks for putting my thread in the right place - hopefully it gets seen here! :)
On to the motor......
It *was* an 1993 Mustang Cobra 302. It has a Coast Highway Performance - Ford Short Block - Ford 347 Short Block, Ford Small Block Stroker 347 stroker in it - believe it is the Pro Street version. 8.5:1 compression with all forged internals. MSD ignition. I have a stack of receipts from the Jeep owner - he bought the motor from a friend that had it in the mustang.

This is verbatim what is on the receipt from Doug's Auto in Orem, UT in July 2004 - when the motor was in the mustang:

Install short block 347i stroker, replace clutch pack, custom tune, Iridium plugs, port and polish heads, new springs, new valves, high flow fuel pump, front brake job, install rear axles, and gears
Install procharger super charger with inner cooler
Stroker short block(CHP), clutch pack, Procharger with install kit, iridium plugs, 42lb injectors, Pro am MAF, head springs and valves, high flow fuel pump, Moser axles with 3.73 for racing gears - parts cost = $9325

So that sums up the original build.

The supercharger is gone and the Jeep owner replaced the racing cam with a Comp Cams 35-308-8 to be more off-road friendly. Shop in Atlanta did cam and "redid the tune" (I have no idea what) around 2008/2009 timeframe.
Behind the motor is a Monster Transmission TH400 to a Stak 3 speed transfer case.

I looked at the computer and it the numbers are E9AF 14A624 AA and X3Z. Does not look like it has been messed with so stock I assume? Being an X3Z (from my internet research) that does match up to 1993 Cobra....

However the MAF sensor does not seem to match up to the rest of the Cobra parts - having AFH55 on it. Not sure why the Ford emblem was scratched off?

The injector color of blue leads me to believe 24lb - which would match up to the Cobra parts (even though at one point it has 42lb based on receipt?)

I will post again to continue now that some background is established :)
 

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Basically after sitting for years, she did not run. So I put in a new battery, dropped the tank and cleaned it out, new fuel filter, new Walbro GSL392 (255 LPH) inline pump (on frame rail).
Started but idled very rough - had to feather the throttle to keep her going. Unplugged the MAF and would somewhat idle on her own (rough but much better than the MAF plugged in)
Took the MAF sensor off and carefully cleaned it with MAF sensor spray and a q-tip. No change.

Got the ford OBD1 code reader and here is the output

23 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal out of range
31 - EVP or PFE circuit below minimum voltage
67 - neutral pressure switch (NPS) circuit failure, neutral drive switch, manual lever position
81 - air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault / air injection diverter
82 - air diverter solenoid circuit fault OR supercharger bypass circuit fault
84 - EGR vacuum regulator circuit failure
85 - canister purge solenoid circuit failure OR adaptive fuel limit reached - lean
95 - fuel pump secondary circuit fault

Some of the codes are obvious:
31, 84 - no EGR -has a block off plate
81, 82, 85 - Air diverter - no smog stuff at all
67 - assume not hooked up? - transmission is a TH400 (need to check though)
95 - assume not hooked up - since I am running a walbro external pump

So this is where I am - I am wondering if the injectors are clogged since it sat so long with old gas? Trying not to point the "parts cannon" at this yet and be more methodical.

I guess I can test or replace the TPS next...
 

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Check voltage at the TPS, go here:
This tells you the correct way to system check the computer operation, alot of the 'no start' issues are fuel or spark related (DUH!)
Slow cranking is also an issue so make sure the battery and connections are good, good enough is not a plan.
The code 67 will not have any effect on starting and running, basically you will not be able to get the 'engine running' codes, not sure what to do about that because the computer is not getting a signal from the clutch peddle or the auto trans in park.
 
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Check voltage at the TPS, go here:
This tells you the correct way to system check the computer operation, alot of the 'no start' issues are fuel or spark related (DUH!)
Slow cranking is also an issue so make sure the battery and connections are good, good enough is not a plan.
The code 67 will not have any effect on starting and running, basically you will not be able to get the 'engine running' codes, not sure what to do about that because the computer is not getting a signal from the clutch peddle or the auto trans in park.
Thanks for the info - the jeep did run fine before - again years ago. So since sitting something went bad - so the chase is on.....
I will start with the TPS.