Jricher Help!!!!!!

[mike7581]

My car when timed at 16BTC backfires like crazy when timed around 30btc runs better. yes i timed it with the spout plug out. reving sucks though. real slow to rev. i originally had a msd dist in but had some problems and had to replace with a stock one now same problem except revs real slow now. again car seems to run best around 30btc what could cause this. could my cam have moved a little bit is that possible. i just don't seem to know what the problem here is please help.

 

[jrichker]

My car when timed at 16BTC backfires like crazy when timed around 30btc runs better. yes i timed it with the spout plug out. reving sucks though. real slow to rev. i originally had a msd dist in but had some problems and had to replace with a stock one now same problem except revs real slow now. again car seems to run best around 30btc what could cause this. could my cam have moved a little bit is that possible. i just don't seem to know what the problem here is please help.

Year car? Mods? Changed anything lately? Has it always done it, or just lately? Make a list and post it in your sig so we can see what you have and make some intelligent headway towards solving your problem.

 

[ss93cobra]

My .02 is that you're off a tooth or two on the dist. gear when it was installed.

 

[mike7581]

recently put in a 331 CHP and just constant problems getting car going. man you spend all this cash and still have problems. anyways everything on the car is prettymuch brand new i have replaced just about eveything. when i had problems with the msd dist i got a stock one from a buddies parts car so it leads me to believe that might be the problem. could i have dipped it off a tooth. how would that make it time better at 30btc.

 

[jrichker]

My .02 is that you're off a tooth or two on the dist. gear when it was installed.

Another fallacy that has been beaten to death here on Stangnet. There is no such thing as “one tooth off” or even "two teeth off". As long as the timing marks line up when you shoot them with the timing light, you are OK. If you get the distributor installed one tooth off, the worst thing to happen is that you don’t have enough room to turn the distributor to get the timing settings you want.

I know because I have had it happen to me. 14* of advance put the distributor right up against the thermostat housing with the distributor installed "one tooth off".

 

[ss93cobra]

Rotating the dist. to 30 with a tooth or two off is like setting the timing at lets say 14 when the dist. is installed correctly. Make sense? Set the engine back to the #1 cylinder and try it again. It won't cost you anything but your time and who knows, it might fix your problem.

 

[mike7581]

any other ideas. could it possibly be a bad distributor. i redid my sig for some reason it got deleted.

 

[ss93cobra]

I know because I have had it happen to me. 14* of advance put the distributor right up against the thermostat housing with the distributor installed "one tooth off".

And its not possible to put it at #1 cylinder, put the dist. in 2 teeth off, fire it up,have it stumble and run like garbage, shut it off, redo the position of the dist. and have it run great and rev like a champ? It's happened to me.

 

[mike7581]

does the #1 wire have to be on a certain spot on the cap or does it not make a difference where the wires are except the order of course

 

[88hatchblack]

cylinder 1 is labeled on the cap....then counterclockwise they go (starting with #1): 13726548

but i don't think it matters as long as the rotor is at cylinder one when the balancer is at 0....

 

[jrichker]

And its not possible to put it at #1 cylinder, put the dist. in 2 teeth off, fire it up,have it stumble and run like garbage, shut it off, redo the position of the dist. and have it run great and rev like a champ? It's happened to me.

Did you check the timing with a timing light, removing the SPOUT?

Anytime you can get the marks to line up using a timing light, you are good to go. The engine is timed to the marks you used, no matter if you were off 1 or 2 teeth to start. You may not be able to make the marks line up being off 2 teeth, but I know that they will line up using the timing light with 1 tooth off.

 

[jrichker]

recently put in a 331 CHP and just constant problems getting car going. man you spend all this cash and still have problems. anyways everything on the car is prettymuch brand new i have replaced just about eveything. when i had problems with the msd dist i got a stock one from a buddies parts car so it leads me to believe that might be the problem. could i have dipped it off a tooth. how would that make it time better at 30btc.

Are you running an MSD ignition box or similar box from another manufacturer? If so, have you tried running the car with the box bypassed & using regular ignition?

 

[mike7581]

there is no msd box only blaster coil and car still only runs good at 35 degrees. i even re dipped the distributor. and found tdc with #1 plug out to make sure my 28oz balancer was marked right. and it was. i guess if it runs fine don't mess with it but it would be nice to be able to time my car correctly. i know it is at 35 cause yes i used a light. this one is really stumping me.

 

[jrichker]

The only thing that I can think of is that the timing tables inside the computer are bad or the TFI is messed up. The computer timing tables would post a code if they were bad.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.