Jumping the starter solenoid help...

if it is cranking over then your problem is elsewhere. if it isin't then the solenoid is bad. i did the test the other day myself, have you cleaned the terminals/connectors amd checked all ground wires?

You bypassed all the ignition switch, netural safety switch and other interlocks. That's where your problem is.

The interlocks keep power from getting to the little screw post. The fact that the starter cranked the engine when you jumpered it to the battery post says the solenoid (aka relay)) is good.

Jumpering the starter solenoid will not make the engine start unless you have the ignition switch in the run position.

as long as you have your key turned on it should start by jumping the solinoid

if it doesnt crank when you turn the key all the way foward to start position but it cranks when you jump the solenoid, then either your solenoid is bad or the wire goin from the ignition to the solenoid is bad/cut. Try turning the key to the on position and then jump the solenoid and it should start, if not than your problem is elsewhere.

since we are all saying what J.R. already said, i will add to it.

if it does start with the ignition switch on and your jumping it, the problem is likely in the ig switch, neutral/clutch safety switch, or the actual wiring from the ignition to the solenoid. this was all said by J.R. in the first line of his post.... i like repetitive redundancy.

If it will crank over with the key and just not start the problem must lie somewhere else.....maybe not getting spark...or fuel...or..........

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.

87MustangGT said:

OK - I've replaced the coil, and still get no spark from the coil wire... Is there any way to test the TFI module? I replaced it on my Stang, and from what I remember it was like $20 - but Ford wants #136 for a Tempo TFI...I'm going to junkyard it I think...
What is the PIP sensor? What does it look like?
Just check for 12 volts at the red wires at the injectors?

Click to expand...

Most auto parts stores can check the TFI module. It isn't a real accurate check for TFI's that are intermitent. If a TFI is really dead, then their tester will spot it.

PIP sensor is the magnetic sensor inside the distrubutor on Mustangs that tells the TFI when to turn on & fire the coil. Not sure about Tempo's having a PIP sensor inside the distributor. Cars that use coil packs may have a crank mounted magnetic pickup.

The red wire on Mustangs powers all the solenoids, actuators like the fuel injectors & IAB and is for computer power too.

93 FORD TEMPO WON'T START ???

I HAVE 93 FORD TEMPO WON'T START

I BOUGHT STARTER solenoid, FUEL FILTER, FUEL PUMP , SHUT OFF SWITCH, REPLACE batteries BOLT

ANY BODY CAN HELP ME WITH THIS??

long shot

ok im not real familiar with a tempo but am with a lot of other fords 1st what year is the car 2nd what motor these are a few things off top of my head ignition switch,crank sensor emergency fuel shut off in the truck to start. a lot of people might have overlooked this one and or ur car might not be like this the key switch has a gear on the end of it it looks like half circle and has around 8 teeth on it it is what actually works the electrical part of the switch look and see if it has any teeth broke off ive seen the last 2 teeth break and the car did nothing the piece is easy to get to just pull the tumbler out and it should be on the end of them or in the colume sometimes they stay and dont come out with the tumbler

I BOUGHT NEW STARTER solenoid AT ORELLY 12.99
IT STILL NOT START
I BOUGHT NEW emergency fuel shut off in the truck AT FORD DEALER 48.00

I MIGHT NEED REPLACE ignition switch OR key switch? HOW EASY TO GET IT OFF TO REPLACE IT

EVERY THING I HAVE IT PULL IN TO A garage THERE CAN'T FIND NOTHING WRONG IT. I THINK ALL THE garage WANT IS MONEY HUNGRY