Looks good. Here's mine mounted.
I picked up a electric fan setup from a V6 ford contour for $40.00 at a You Pull It yard.It fits really nice on the fox body radiator.I made some small L brackets on the top so I could bolt it where the stock shroud was And on the bottom I made some brackets to slide in where the shroud did.
Gm temp switch in the thermostat housing hole .JEGS 52125: Adjustable Fan Temperature Switch 160 to 240 degrees - JEGS High Performance
Adjustable Fan Temperature Switchwww.jegs.com
So if i used this controller. What do i do with that sensor? nvm. Read the desc. Says it slides in between radiator coolant tubes. Ok. Cool.
Or anyone got a better solution. Saw a couple other options. I didnt get the fans, had to get a bumper cover today. Gotta call the JY's around me and find a contour/cougar/mystique first. Gotta do some quick googling and see what cars i can get a 3g alt off of too. Im intimidated thus far on this swap. Just the wiring. But ima do it! I know its easy as hell. (Famous last words)
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system. The current draw is up 90 amps startup surge and as high as 30 -40 amps running full speed. Look at the fuse size in the car the fan originally came from when using a junkyard fan to get some clues as to how much current the fan draws. Aftermarket fans will come the specs that have the current requirements clearly stated.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
3G alternator installation & wiring instructions
3G Alternator Install: A How To | Mustang Forums at StangNet
Something does not make sense with the different types of fans. If the mechanical fan and electric fans move the same amount of air, it should take the same amount of energy to do the same amount of work.
(The electric fans are supposed to move more air, but for the theory...)
If it takes 7-12 hp for the mechanical fan, why does it not take at least that much Hp to turn the alternator to produce the electricity the fan uses? The table for 12 mechanical hp equals 8948 watts! Is something magical going on?
Horsepower to watts (W) conversion calculator
Horsepower (hp) to watts (W), power conversion: calculator and how to convert.www.rapidtables.com
Yes, that’s the other half of the power consumption quandary. So, is the mechanical fan’s power drain that overstated? The production of electricity by a high output alternator, it’s transfer, then it’s conversion back to rotational energy should have more potential losses to heat and friction than a direct, mechanical link with a thermally controlled fan clutch. The alternator cannot put out more power in Watts than it takes in as Hp unless it is magic, producing free energy. So one of the figures is likely off. An easy answer would be the mechanical fan design is less efficient, but if 5.5 to 10.5 hp difference is lost to the design, a new mechanical fan blade design would be a cheap factory change for the extra power output compared to the two electric motors and complex shroud. So what am I missing?voltage x current = watts
746 watts = 1 HP
14 volts x 40 amps =560 Watts
Let's say for sake of argument that the electric motor uses twice that many watts...
560 x 2 = 1120 watts
1120 watts ÷746 = 1.50 HP.
Engine masters found a properly working clutch fan was the most efficient. The difference was negligible though.Is it possible that you are over thinking this?
There are dyno tests that prove a properly configured electric cooling fan can be as effective as a clutch fan and use less hp.
Or am I missing something?
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