Just a girl looking to replace her carbuerator

zwoman

New Member
Jun 8, 2009
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Looking to replace the carburetor in my 68 Mustang convertible. I drive it nearly every day and am not interested in showing it, or racing it, keeping it original or any of that. I just enjoy the car. It is idling roughly and needs to be babied on some days. I have a 289 with 302 heads. I don't know what to buy. Any suggestions?:shrug:
 
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If you're looking for a two barrel carb, consider a rebuilt OEM carb, they were/are great carbs and reliable as a rock. I suspect your may have a worn throttle shaft if it's the original one to the car. If you have a 4 barrel intake and are looking for an aftermarket carb, I have had nothing but good luck with Holley model 1850 vacuum secondary carbs. They get good mileage, good performance are extremely reliable and parts and advice are on every street corner in America. They're even available in shiny silver finishes for a few extra bucks.
 
I'm in agreeance here also, if your looking for a replacement 4 bbl, I've had nothing but good luck with my holley 8160 (which is the SAME carb as an 8150, only with different bowls) which i would suggest getting an 8150.

My mustang has sat outside on 10*F days all day, and with a lil choke, few pumps, she starts right up.




OBTW.....


PICS OF THE CAR!!!!!! :)
 
I guess the question is do you have a 2 or 4 barrel carb? myold 67 came w/ 2 barrel on the stock 289..until I changed the intake and went with the infamous holley 8150...but I really shouldnt even be answering...its been 10 years since I have even driven a carbed car
 
One of us is mixed up. I think you guys mean a model 4150 or 4160, one has center-hung floats, one has side-hung floats. It's also referred to by it's list number, which is commonly known as a 1850, which is a basic, vacuum secondary, 600cfm carb. Some have electric chokes, some manual, all are good. I'd hate to see someone try to call Summit for an 8150 Holley, so I just wanted to clear that up.
 
I cant agree with that. I hate Holley carbs. The vehicles that I and my friends have had that had them were problematic. Of course I don't remember exactly which Holley carbs these were. I like the Edelbrock carbs. I have had nothing but good luck with them. My friends too.

I do agree that if it is a stock 2 barrel then just a new autolite carb would be the way to go.
 
What EXACTLY do you hate about Holleys? I have this same conversation with a guy at work who's a huge fan of Q-jet carbs and thinks anyone who has a Holley is ignorant. Yet when pressed for details he cannot tell you why. Just saying all your freinds have problems is not enough. What kind of problems do they have? Is the problem with the carb, or is it possible they are the problem? I have run Holleys for over 30 years and they make more power, have proven to be reliable, are easy to tune, and get great mileage. I have run Holleys right out of the box before with no problem, although right now I run a pair of Holleys on my car and they needed a little tweaking, but even then, they get better mileage than my buddy with a single E-brock carb. I'd be very interested in knowing your buddies problems when you get time to list them.
 
I'm not saying that Holley is junk. I just don't like what I have seen from it on street cars. I have seen some drag cars with Holley stuff and they run good. Alot of it may be tuning them.

The problems were basically just poor drivability. They just never ran right. We constantly fiddled with them and the results were always the same. They would flood out easily or they would not want to start at all in the cold. Sometimes they would spit and sputter or bog down. Many times we would get the backfire through the carb. I've not had a new Edelbrock do that. I just don't want anything to do with it. The Edelbrocks always seemed to run better and we have never had any problems with them.

I would rather have good performace and driveability and if I'm not making quite as much power as I could so be it. I'm not out to be the fastest.

My good friend who has a 70 Mustang with a 302 has a Carter AFB carb and it works well.
 
I have a feeling that you may have been "fiddling" with the carb without understanding what you were doing. The good thing about Holleys is they are easy to tune. The bad thing about Holleys is everyone thinks they can tune one. If you take it one step at a time, they are extremely simple, but they do require that you know what you're doing. That goes for ANY carb I've ever worked on, from Holleys to Carters to Edelbrocks to Mikunis to Keheins. Carbs are carbs, and some guys are better off leaving the tools in the box.
 
I can tell you what I hate about Holley's. Metering blocks are cast out of pot metal and if you happen to get one with some porosity you can tune on them all day long and never get them right. Nothing worse than following procedures by the book and getting unpredictable results. My favorite is a Demon carb. Billet metering blocks and use Holley replacement parts so the best of both worlds in my opinion. I was able to get rid of the anti dieseling solenoid on my 351C simply by switching to the Demon.
 
I have a feeling that you may have been "fiddling" with the carb without understanding what you were doing. The good thing about Holleys is they are easy to tune. The bad thing about Holleys is everyone thinks they can tune one. If you take it one step at a time, they are extremely simple, but they do require that you know what you're doing. That goes for ANY carb I've ever worked on, from Holleys to Carters to Edelbrocks to Mikunis to Keheins. Carbs are carbs, and some guys are better off leaving the tools in the box.

Well I can somewhat agree with what your saying. A carb is a carb. We did follow the directions for the Holley and got unsatisfactory results. My Dad who has worked on cars for about 40 years or so doesn't like Holley either. I know a lot of guys that don't care for them. Its all about preference some like certain brands and some dont.
 
I can tell you what I hate about Holley's. Metering blocks are cast out of pot metal and if you happen to get one with some porosity you can tune on them all day long and never get them right. Nothing worse than following procedures by the book and getting unpredictable results. My favorite is a Demon carb. Billet metering blocks and use Holley replacement parts so the best of both worlds in my opinion. I was able to get rid of the anti dieseling solenoid on my 351C simply by switching to the Demon.

+1 with the demon, or barry grant same thing. i own both demon & holley and demon is a better version of a holley imo. except hollys get better gas milage, but demon made more power.
but back on topic, thread starter should get a oem replacement or maybe a holley street avenger carb or something like that. or even just have your existing carb rebuilt.
 
Well I can somewhat agree with what your saying. A carb is a carb. We did follow the directions for the Holley and got unsatisfactory results. My Dad who has worked on cars for about 40 years or so doesn't like Holley either. I know a lot of guys that don't care for them. Its all about preference some like certain brands and some dont.
While this post has strayed a bit (Ok, a LOT) I honestly believe that ANY carb in good working order can be adjusted to do pretty much whatever you need it to do. For instance, your claim that you don't know anyone who has a streetable Holley is far too general a statement. What part of the RPM range was the problem in? You as the tuner need to be able to identify the problem area and adjust it accordingly. For instance, is the car lazy or bogging off idle? Then you need to adjust the accel pump parts. The accel pump cam can be adjusted or replaced with one that fits your needs. The accel pump arm linkage can be adjusted for either abit more of a shot, or a bit less. The accel pump housing itself can be replaced with a larger one. Then there are squirter nozzles which have more choices than you can imagine, all to tailor the accel pump quantity and length to do what you need to do. Next is the main jet, again more sizes here than you can swap out in a year of trying. Float height and in some carbs, adjustable air bleeds can all be tuned to do exactly what you want on a Holley, and if that's not enough there are aftermarket parts and all this stuff is available at any decent parts house or from online or phone suppliers like Summit. This is not intended as a judgement, but I get the feeling that you are kind of fumbling with the carb more than you are actually tuning it. I've tuned everything from sand drag quads with nitrous to blown street motors to sport bikes to circle trackers to motocrossers and one thing is for sure, once you understand what the motor is telling you, it's easy. Otherwise your just swapping parts on a poke and a hope. But all this is irrelavent really, because for mild street motors I have never done anything other than bolt the carb on out of the box, set the idle mixture screws and close the hood. Holleys simply haven't needed anything more for excellent street driveablity.
 
I think it's safe to say that since the original poster never bothered to answer the 2 or 4 bbl question, that she hasn't read any of this. For anyone else reading this, a $20 rebuild kit, a $20 gallon can of carb cleaner, a new fuel filter and a little patience resolved all my Motorcraft 2100 2bbl issues.
 
Yeah, I don't know what happened to the original poster.

I agree that a rebuilt kit for 20 bucks will freshen up the Autolite carb and make a world of difference in how well it works.

I have seen people that have streetable Holleys. I just don't care for them from my experience. I'll use the anology of Coke and Pepsi. I like Coke but don't really care for Pepsi. There are others that love Pepsi. Thats the way I look at it.

Its been far to long ago that I even messed with Holleys much. I actually haven't worked on much of anything in the last few years that had a carb other than a few cars. Most was EFI. I can't really remember where in the RPM range that the problem was when It would bog. It just seemed like too much of a hassle so an Edelbrock went on in its place and no more problems. I'm not trying to say the Edelbrock is a miracle carb. I'm sure there have been some people that did not get the results they wanted from their carbs.

All the motors I and my friends had then were mild street motors. Well thats all I have ever had. After bolting the carb on setting idle and mixture screws did not seem to be quite enough to run nicely. I am not an expert on carbs, but did do what the instructions said. I also know that Holley can be more fine tuned with the knowlege and patience.
 
I have a Carter AFB on mine, which is essentially the same as an Edelbrock Performer carb, which I have also owned before. I have never, ever had a lick of trouble with either. Changing metering rods is a breeze and I have my Carter set up with superb driveability yet returning 17+ mpg over 5 of the 6 tanks I've run since I tuned it.

You didn't say if you had a manual trans or an automatic; if it's a manual trans you may find you get a smidge better mileage out of a vacuum secondary Holley along with slightly better peak power.

Either way you won't go wrong. I have had a bad experience with a Holley in the past but just as many will sing its praises. I'd stick with a Holley for the manual trans, but if you have an automatic I don't think you'll go that wrong with either.