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K-Member Install

  • Thread starter Thread starter Black Sun 5.0
  • Start date Start date Oct 24, 2006
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Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002
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Oct 24, 2006
#1
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #1
OK, I'm going to have the engine out of the car and I'm thinking of installing a new front suspension. I was going to go with the MM K-member package. How huge of a hassle is this job, especially with the engine already out?
 

notch22

Member
Aug 24, 2004
22
0
17
Katy, TX
Oct 24, 2006
#2
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #2
I dont think there would be much of a problem at all. Just unbolt the old, bolt in the new, unless I am seriously mistaken. The only minor problem you may have is the holes being a tiny bit off.
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Oct 24, 2006
#3
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #3
You should first decide if a K-member will help you accomplish your goal ... (i.e. - what is your goal?)
 

Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002
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Oct 24, 2006
#4
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #4
Overall, a better front suspension. It's going to be the weekend car, but I figure if the engine is going to be out, I may as well do the suspension before everything goes back in. Probably no track, just street.
 

notch22

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Aug 24, 2004
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17
Katy, TX
Oct 24, 2006
#5
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #5
Heck I wouldnt worry about it then. If it wont be on the track, there isnt any worry about weight.
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Oct 24, 2006
#6
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #6
Black Sun 5.0 said:
It's going to be the weekend car
Click to expand...

I went through the exact thing as you. I wanted the best suspension possible so I figured why not get a tubular k-member? Lots of reasons: the hassle, the issue of moving the motor back and moving the wheels forward, as well as, clearancing the fenders to fit the moved wheels, and modifying the exhaust for the re-positioned engine. Also, some will widen the front track width. It only makes sense for the TRACK since a wider track width improves handling. I spoke with some folks at MM and they advised strongly against the k-member for a weekend car. Their exact words were "it's more trouble than it is worth". Hope this helps.
 
M

MatthewP

Founding Member
Dec 7, 2001
355
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Calgary, Alberta
Oct 24, 2006
#7
  • Oct 24, 2006
  • #7
It's not a hard job to put a tubular K-Member in when the engine is out. I've done it by myself on the garage floor with a QA1 K-Member.

As to the decision on whether to put it in or not, It's probably a good idea to have a clear reason for the change. In my case, I needed the header clearance for 2 inch primary long tubes.

Also, if you use the QA1, you can choose either the standard engine position, or moved back. This K-Member does widen the track and move the front wheels forward, however I did not have to clearance anything to make it work fine. I run skinnies on Weld Drag Lites though.

-Matthew
 

Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002
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Oct 25, 2006
#8
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #8
Yeah, I'll be upgrading to 5-lugs and will be running either 17" Cobra or Bullett rims.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,015
1,613
194
NJ
Oct 25, 2006
#9
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #9
The mm k is great quality, but it's for a race car, or a car that will be raced, it's price is very hefty by the time you complete it, the k, tubular A arms, coilover kit really add up. If you aren't hardcore roadrace, you just don't need it.

You can use a qa1 or aje with spring perches for 1/5 of the price and that would be fine.

BUT, it's easier to install one with spring perches with the engine in the car, using a T brace to hold the engine up, without the engine weight on the springs it's a bitch. Yes it can be done, but why bother.
 

Black Sun 5.0

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#10
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #10
I was looking at the whole package: MMKMP-10. The thing that's motivating me to do the entire front is the dramatic impact just putting Mac rear upper and lower control arms in the car. Big difference, now I want the whole thing completed.
 

88Stang331

New Member
Mar 30, 2006
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0
Oct 25, 2006
#11
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #11
Also if its just a weekend car you could put the K-member in there to clean it up some, and give you more space to do something with. I will deffinately be doing this with my car in the future for this purpose...it will also have its chance at the track every once in a while.
 

Black Sun 5.0

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#12
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #12
This one will HOPEFULLY be done by summer. Everything will be done: pull engine, paint everything (minor body work), tranny conversion, front suspension, interior swap, a bunch of stuff. It should be an education.
 

Prime Lord

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#13
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #13
For a weekend car, I wouldn't go through the hassle. Just get good springs, a decent set of struts, K-member & strut tower braces, & C/C plates. You'd be amazed how much that stuff makes a difference even w/ the stock k-member. To be honest, unless your road racing it for real...I wouldn't even bother w/ coilovers. The car just wasn't designed for them, and its just another hassle for the install.
 

Black Sun 5.0

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#14
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #14
I will take that into serious consideration. The job is beyond just me by myself, there's no question. I will have help, but how much, I really don't know. By the way, who makes a k-member brace for a '90 stang? Thanks.
 

Prime Lord

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#15
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #15
Get everything from Maximum Motorsports.

K-Member Brace

Hell, they should be sponsering me as much of their parts as I have on my car. And all the stuff I've bought from them, I have never ONCE been let down. Great products from guys who know Mustangs. Seriously, all my suspension & chassis components came from them. Except for the springs....but I'm happy w/ the FMS C springs. If it can make your Stang ride better, MM has it.
 

Black Sun 5.0

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#16
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #16
I planned on going with MM and just happened to be on their site. What, exactly, are you running on your front end? I already have a full Tokico strut/shock/spring kit on my car, but it's a few years old now and can also probably be replaced.
 

Prime Lord

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#17
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #17
I've got the FMS C-springs, the MM strut tower brace, 4-pt k-member brace, & caster/camber plates. I'm using the stock steering setup and 5-lug SN95 stuff.

The install couldn't be easier and since I have a T-top car, the bracing made even more of a dramatic effect. The only thing I have yet to do is the struts...I'm gonna go w/ bilstiens on all 4 corners when I get the money.
 
9

9 Deuce GT

Member
Dec 10, 2003
550
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Geneva, NY
Oct 25, 2006
#18
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #18
I agree, MM rules. I would go with the Bilstein's all around with MM coilovers. The ride quality from just the fronts alone is awesome. I just got their Heavy Duty LCA's and recently had their standard subframes put on. What a huge difference. Now I seem to be addicted to buying their stuff.
 

Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002
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#19
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #19
Did you go with their K-member also or just leave the stocker in?
 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
Oct 25, 2006
#20
  • Oct 25, 2006
  • #20
I could ask my friend how hard it was, his car is going to be pretty sick when it's done.

MM K-member, MM arms, Coilovers w/ konis, 2000 R Steering rack, 2003 cobra IRS, etc..
 
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