Kenne Bell on 5.0?

Black95GTS · Jul 7, 2009

84t-top said:
Last I checked we don't race dyno's! Who cares about peak, average or what ever other kind of horse power you're talking about. The proof is at the track, period. I've see cars dyno 250 rwhp and go 12 oh's and i've seen cars dyno 400rwph and go 13 oh's. On race day, you won't be happy when a kennebell can't keep up with a centrif.

my 2 cents

You contradict yourself. So at the beginning, you tell me average horse power is stupid to consider, then half way through you tell the poster that lower peak horse power cars can indeed be faster (agreeing with what I said), then you tell the poster to ignore what you just said and go with the blower making better peak numbers.

Adam

Dizzy_ax · Jul 7, 2009

A blower + the 5.0, you really cant go wrong. when i was at the track we had a guy running 13.xx's with his KB set up and he still got tons of people complimenting him on how his car sounded. If the price is nice and low go for it. I dont know too many people complaining about more horse power

On a side note with my set up I drive 50 miles round trip for work with my V-1 S/C with no heat problems, no lack of power down low and it is a blast to drive everywhere. Its my DD and non intercooled. There is alot of room to grow with turbos and centri's but the KB gets respect everywhere. It sounds awesome ;p

sub0ca · Jul 11, 2009

kenne bell 5.0

Hey guys I have the 2.2L and going to a 331, I cant wait.. I had the option to go vortch or procharger etc but deal was good and I like the sound coming from a KB, doesnt sound like a squiky belt all the time..lol. just kidding.. I like being different too.. everyone has a vortech.. not to many Kb on 5.0's around where I live.

just trying to figure out what gear to run with 3.55 or 3.73. TKO 600 5 speed.

Thx

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 11, 2009

sub0ca said:
Hey guys I have the 2.2L and going to a 331, I cant wait.. I had the option to go vortch or procharger etc but deal was good and I like the sound coming from a KB, doesnt sound like a squiky belt all the time..lol. just kidding.. I like being different too.. everyone has a vortech.. not to many Kb on 5.0's around where I live.

just trying to figure out what gear to run with 3.55 or 3.73. TKO 600 5 speed.

Thx

With that much torque available, I wouldn't bother with much beyoned a 3.27:1 ratio. As the matter of fact, keep your stock gears in place and see how you like it first. Its not like acceleration is going to be a problem with that much torque on demand and you might as well retain the highway mileage while you're at it. Its the guys with the centrifugal chargers that depend on rear gear ratio for acceleration. You shouldn't have any issue with 2.2L of huff backing you!

I have 3.73's in my nearly 4,200lb, automatic equipped, Mercury Cougar and I'm actually planning on going back to the stock 3.27's. I have no problem at all breaking the tires loose at almost any speed and I've only got a little 90ci blower under the hood.

tealstang67 · Jul 11, 2009

sub0ca said:
Hey guys I have the 2.2L and going to a 331, I cant wait.. I had the option to go vortch or procharger etc but deal was good and I like the sound coming from a KB, doesnt sound like a squiky belt all the time..lol. just kidding.. I like being different too.. everyone has a vortech.. not to many Kb on 5.0's around where I live.

just trying to figure out what gear to run with 3.55 or 3.73. TKO 600 5 speed.

Thx

I wouldn't go any higher than 3.55's the KB likes lower end so why waste it with gears mine are stock with a full spool and it is great. Get a good clutch though

sub0ca · Jul 12, 2009

Well, I think I will stick with the 3.55 as am doing a major overhaul on the rear end. Corbra brakes upgrake differential, cover etc..

Now I am wondering to go the 31 spline or not.. I am deffinately going with an eaton posi, just havent decided yet.. as I alreay have the 5 lug axles in 28 spine

I am sorry if this post is not in the right locations. Mods you can delete or move or let me know where to post in the future.. I have lots of kb questions coming..

revhead347 · Jul 14, 2009

The object of the gear is to reach your peak rpm going through the traps. With 3.55s and a 331 with a KB on 26" tires, that should be around 122mph. The 3.55s will actually be perfect.

I think the TKO 600 has a 31 spline output shaft on it. Factory is a 28 spline. Something to consider when building your rear end; there are 2 axle shafts, and 1 output shaft on the transmission. So, naturally 31 spline axles in the rear are going to make it twice as strong as the output shaft on the transmission. So, if you decide you don't need a new locker, then it is much more affordable to stay with 28 spline axles. With forged axles, they don't really break anyway. If you change to the Eaton, then of course step it up to 31s. Simply because it is easier to do. If your car has ABS, you have to order and axle specifically machined for the reductor ring. Make sure you specify when you order axles. I remember when I ordered my axles, they didn't offer a 31 spline axle for ABS, but I'm pretty sure they do now. Strange makes axles all the way up to 35 spline for our cars now.

Kurt

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 14, 2009

revhead347 said:
The object of the gear is to reach your peak rpm going through the traps. With 3.55s and a 331 with a KB on 26" tires, that should be around 122mph. The 3.55s will actually be perfect.

This is very true, but its also assuming he's building his car to assault the quarter mile at the strip. If this is primarily a daily driver, he could probably go even lower still (3.08-3.27) and still maintain great street manners. It would still put out more bottom end and mid range power than he ever could with his all motor set up alone, yet make no compromise what so ever in fuel economy for daily driving. He'll actually have the power now to pull the taller gear set at the top end as well....assuming that's what he was into?

I actually found that my car pulled better throughout the mid range with the 3.27's over my 3.73's since I was able to remain within the sweet spot of the torque curve that much longer. Also going to 3.73's cost me about 1-2mpg in fuel mileage. Not a huge difference, but when I pay over $1.00/L at the pumps, every penny counts.

revhead347 · Jul 14, 2009

I don't think minor adjustments in gear ratio are really that big of a deal for the street anyway. Should be fine on the street with 3.55s.

Kurt

sub0ca · Jul 14, 2009

my car does not have abs, is a 1991, 5.0l. I read the kenne bell 5.0 title and started in on the conversation.

ok, gears settled, 3.55,

TKO 500 as I already have the Dual friction clutch Center force. or should I upgrade and go 600 new clutch and what not..

also kenne bell quoted me flowzilla, upgrade manifold(s) 1195 plus shipping.. with bypass.. I think I will leave it a blowzilla.. or should I go for it.. I thnk 1200 would be better spent else wheres..what do you guys think..

toyman · Jul 14, 2009

sub0ca said:
my car does not have abs, is a 1991, 5.0l. I read the kenne bell 5.0 title and started in on the conversation.

ok, gears settled, 3.55,

TKO 500 as I already have the Dual friction clutch Center force. or should I upgrade and go 600 new clutch and what not..

also kenne bell quoted me flowzilla, upgrade manifold(s) 1195 plus shipping.. with bypass.. I think I will leave it a blowzilla.. or should I go for it.. I thnk 1200 would be better spent else wheres..what do you guys think..

Did they mention anything about a credit for the Blowzilla if it's returned? I am also thinking of going that route.

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 14, 2009

sub0ca said:
...also kenne bell quoted me flowzilla, upgrade manifold(s) 1195 plus shipping.. with bypass.. I think I will leave it a blowzilla.. or should I go for it.. I thnk 1200 would be better spent else wheres..what do you guys think..

I'd say it was worth it if you've got, or plan on getting a decent set of aluminum heads and high flow exhaust improvements to go along with the inlet improvements to the blower. Remember, this kit is sans intercooler, so a pulley swap to increase the blower speed and up the airflow is going to result in additional heat…and there’s only so much heat you’re going to be able to create without the need for higher octane fuel. Anytime you can reduce the inlet restriction, you’re effectively increasing the efficiency in which the airflow is able to enter the engine. This means the you’re increasing the volume entering the blower, without increasing the blower speed and without increasing discharge temperatures. And that’s always a good thing.

On the flip side, if you’re choking it all through a set of stock, or moderate performance cylinder heads like a stet of GT40’s or something and force feeding it through the stock exhaust system, its all going to end up stacking up on the intake side anyway…and the gains would be minimal at best.

sub0ca · Jul 15, 2009

ya but 1100 bucks seems kinda steep, (4 hundred more I could get nice set of heads, AFR 185's) Which they had these used..

I do however have a set of gt40 intake was going to use, but my manifolds are regular stock manifolds on the blowzilla.

I am running 70mm tb, and could prob, get the meth inj to help cooling, I have the truck crank, and anderson power pipe.

no sure which MAF, prom 90 perhaps cali to 42lb injectors.

was going to go with pro bullet or similar short block 331 and put the kb on that..

final5-0 · Jul 15, 2009

I've looked at KB's many times

For my Street Car application ... I like KB more than Centri

However

Only if I could do the KB with all the extra stuff like bypass and the like

I did a good bit of research not too long ago looking at Vortech's real hard :Word:

IMHO ... it is no different than the KB about the extra stuff

Fastest step up ratio blower, pulley and a mist injection kit
Well ... lets just say I saw that kinda stuff on Vortech combos I
thought to be in the better than average group

I'm just saying an entry level kit with either choice leaves lots to be desired

Another thing on the KB's ... I've seen it said you wanna be big on all the stuff
before the intake

Grady

revhead347 · Jul 15, 2009

sub0ca said:
TKO 500 as I already have the Dual friction clutch Center force. or should I upgrade and go 600 new clutch and what not..

Dump that garbage. The dual friction is stock replacement garbage. I had a Dual Friction and it made it two passes on motor at the track, and I had to tow the car home. After the clutch insinerated itself, the tech guys at Centerforce were total *******s to me on the phone. Get a SPEC 3+, and you will never need to buy another clutch again. It's worth the money. If you can handle having a clutch that is a little grabby, get the SPEC 4+. I run a SPEC 4+, which has a solid hub. I was surprised at how streetable a solid hub clutch was. It's a little troublesome in the rain, but it's a full face clutch which engages smoothly. Made in America too, no stock replacement parts from China like the Fidanzas.

Kurt

DDSTANG94 · Jul 15, 2009

revhead347 said:
Dump that garbage. The dual friction is stock replacement garbage. I had a Dual Friction and it made it two passes on motor at the track, and I had to tow the car home. After the clutch insinerated itself, the tech guys at Centerforce were total *******s to me on the phone. Get a SPEC 3+, and you will never need to buy another clutch again. It's worth the money. If you can handle having a clutch that is a little grabby, get the SPEC 4+. I run a SPEC 4+, which has a solid hub. I was surprised at how streetable a solid hub clutch was. It's a little troublesome in the rain, but it's a full face clutch which engages smoothly. Made in America too, no stock replacement parts from China like the Fidanzas.

Kurt

for a street car?? no way

I hear the spec stage 1 is harsh and chatters like a mofo, let alone 3+4

and NO i havent owned one or drivin one, but its come from alota well educated mustang ppl that spec are strong, but harsh on the streets

revhead347 · Jul 15, 2009

DDSTANG94 said:
for a street car?? no way

I hear the spec stage 1 is harsh and chatters like a mofo, let alone 3+4

and NO i havent owned one or drivin one, but its come from alota well educated mustang ppl that spec are strong, but harsh on the streets

The old 4 puck SPEC 3s were a little touchy. The new full face SPEC clutches are totally streetable. I've had a SPEC 3 four puck, a SPEC 3 six puck, and a SPEC 4+. They were all very streetable, and none of them chattered. The SPEC 3 four puck was a little grabby, but they have since discontinued that design. The reason I keep going back to SPEC is because their customer service is second to none. I always get one of two guys in the tech department, and they actually listen to what you say. My SPEC 3 four puck broke the hub after about 30,000 miles. The tech guy admitted it was an inferior design, and offered to ship me a new 6 puck disk for free. After I put another 30,000 miles on my 6 puck disk with the orginal SPEC 3 pressure plate, I took it out and sold it for $100. You can't find another performance clutch on the market that you can pull out after 60,000 miles that is still in sellable condition. That SPEC 3 is in another Mustang now, and has well over 100,000 miles on it. That might not sounds like a lot of miles, but keep in mind I was launching this car at the track at 6000rpms. I had a friend with an LS1 car running a SPEC 5 on the street with no problems. Centerforce tech guys are *******s, and assume you are an idiot. And the tech guys at Mcleod always take 20 days off at a time to go racing. Fidanza just relables Chinese pressure plates with their name and remarkets them. No competition in my book.

Kurt

sub0ca · Jul 16, 2009

ok, Talked to Kb and they said "So polished Blowzilla/Flowzilla upgrade would be $1129.00 + shipping and non-polished would be $779.00 + shipping" shipping ground like 60 bucks.

They do not take in returns or used. They only sell new.

As for the transmisson and clutch, doing more research, TK0 500 is the way to go? I heard it is set up or suited for lower rear gears,

I kinda like the Centerforce Dual Friction I have. I have not had any problems, but I guess for 400 dollars more, I can have a new worry free clutch.. Spec 2 or Spec 3 do I need Aluminum flywheel, what brand.. etc.

keeping in mind I dont want to go over 450-500 mark so it will be a street/show car.

revhead347 · Jul 16, 2009

TKO 500 is a good transmission. No way the Centerforce is going to hold up to 450hp. I would save yourself the effort of pulling the transmission out again. You might want to consider going to a Tremec with a 26 spline input shaft and a 31 spline output shaft. It is a good time to do it if you are buying a new clutch anyway. Then all you need is a yolk piece for the driveshaft. Aluminum flywheels are overated. There are better places to spend your money IMHO. I've never had one. They do slow you down a little at the drag strip too.

Kurt

sub0ca · Jul 18, 2009

I asked the guys at D&D transmision and they said it will handle the hp. I am not going to the drag strip on a weekly basis.. prob just to see what shell do in a quarter.

Sorry guys I hi jacked this thread kinda.. sorry

I need help with motor KB combo, Or should make new thread?

I am getting a line up on a boss302 block, was thinking of getting it to 331 with the kenne bell, What internals are needed or what can you guys recommend for me. I am looking for best combo, efi,etc.
I am not to technical so any help would be appriciated. 331 blower KB motor.

I want to run AFR 185 or 205 heads, (most people run this head) not sure.
Forged Piston, not sure what type (Notched) ?
Crank?
Cam? (xe cam) not sure
42 lb injectors
Pro M MAF 90mm (
255lb walbro in tank pump(needed) I have the 190
Crane Hi-6 ?

Thanks guys think this will jump start me a bit..

Kenne Bell on 5.0?

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