Good thing I have gears already, but yes that covers rockers, lifters, timing chain set, etc etc. they’re basically free at this point!Or rear end gears.
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
I need to physically check because the PO said either 3.31’s or 3.55’s because he couldn’t remember. I honestly didn’t know 3.31’s were a thing which is why I want to check.
It’s the same rear end out of my old fox that HAD 3.73’s but they have been taken out.
It’s the same rear end out of my old fox that HAD 3.73’s but they have been taken out.
Sounds like a party!With KB and even 2:73, you'll have difficulty keeping the tires planted.
I can roll on the gas pedal in 3rd and break my Cooper Cobras loose.
In all honesty I’m probably a year out or more from gathering parts and getting it all installed. We’ll see.
For anyone: What roller rockers and lifters should I buy with the TW heads? Just TF 1.6’s and TF or FRPP lifters? I want to say I had 1.7 rockers on my 331.
Stock lifters from E7 heads won't work with TFS heads, not the same mount. There are tons of good quality options out there, just make sure you get the proper ratio for your cam and valve springs. 1.6 vs 1.7 matter most when it comes to springs and PTV clearance... Now that you've chosen your heads, choose the cam and springs and rockers next.
The heads come with “upgraded springs” already on them if that’s what you’re referencing. From my quick internet research it sounds like 1.6 rocker arms are a safe bet. I was planning on keeping the cam stock. I never had my old fox tuned but it had bucking issues down on the rpm range with the TFS stage 1 cam. That one basically had the TFS ‘stage 1’ top end kit on a 331 with new internal (stock crank though). As time goes on and I buy more parts maybe I’ll just look at ‘suggested parts’ based on the heads. So I think for the rocker arms I need 3/8” stud mount 1.6 rockers. I’ll probably just go with TFS lifters as well unless those aren’t any good?
I should look at my build sheet for my previous engine (still have my binder of info I think) because that car ripped with that setup, and try to mimic it as much as possible with my obvious planned changes this go around.
I kind of have two plans going:
1. If stock short block is in good shape, then it’ll be twisted wedge heads, stock cam, KB supercharger.
2. If shortblock is not in good shape, I’d like to recreate the 331, twisted wedge heads, stock cam, KB supercharger.
But I won’t do anything until I know the status of my current shortblock because that will dictate both budget and timeline.
As mentioned previously regarding supporting equipment, I’ll probably buy a new water pump, timing chain, etc either way I go.
All i know is this got sudo serious quickly, lol
I wasn't so much referencing the springs other than to say if you're going to change the cam you need to know the spring rate specs that are required instead of assuming the "upgraded" springs are correct... historically TFS springs are not that great and most have to actually upgrade them to the PAC springs.
As for the rockers I was referencing the stock E7 heads use pedestal mount rockers and you'll need stud mount for the TFS heads so they don't interchange. I'd say use the 1.6 ratio and go with the TFS ones or maybe Scorpions. The stock cam will work fine and keep a good drivability too.
Curious what lifters others use. I looked up the trick flow lifters and Ford ones. Neither have great reviews. I'm planning on using some original low mileage ones on my current build.
I saw some melling ones but can't find any reviews on them.
If you are concerned with quality then just pony up and get some Morel's or Johnson's. They are not cheap but they are high quality and you get what you pay for. I will say that I have the Ford Performance M-6500-R302H's in my 331 and have zero issues.
Why are ‘link bar lifters’ so much more expensive than just lifters? They are like triple the price.
The only time I've heard them being needed is when using a roller cam build in a block that was setup for flat/solid lifter (mainly in 351 non-roller blocks)... But I'm not an expert on it.
There are versions for roller blocks and versions to retrofit non-roller blocks. The roller block version doesn't make a lotta sense unless there's some benefit to it. I'm not sure what that benefit would be over the dog bones on a hydraulic lifter, roller block.
I totally get it for the solid lifters tho.
Edit:
maybe it's just a case where a guy has a bare block without all the "stuff" and just says, "screw it... bars".
Non-roller blocks have no place/boss/retainer for the dogbones.
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I can see where they might not be necessary in a roller 5.0 with the metal dog bones, but they are somewhat of an insurance policy when building a spicy LS engine since they use plastic lifter trays. An engine will quickly self-destruct if one happens to go sideways.
Unfortunately valetrain components are often not understood and stuff is put together because it appears to work for someone else.
Unfortunately valetrain components are often not understood and stuff is put together because it appears to work for someone else.
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