Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Scrapla347
Active Member
What length was it? I need that for my cable cause that thing gets hot AF and hard to move.Quick easy job tonight. Added the MM clutch cable heat shield:
12" per MM's website:
I may buy another to put near the header from the topside where the cable routes right down by the drivers side header. When i bought it thats actually what i thought it was for but then i read the directions and it goes down by the bellhousing. Once down there i can see why, the cable is right next to the collector.
I wrapped mine with header wrap and used the stainless ties it came with. You can usually get it at the local parts stores.
Scrapla347
Active Member
The Foxbody headlight bulb is a 9004, can you put a 9007 bulb in there? I was thinking of buying this headlight relay harness:
ceautoelectricsupply.com
but it asks if you want it for 9004 or 9007's. Do the 9007's have a different connector that wouldn't work with the existing Foxbody headlight housings?
Would the foglights require its own separate relay harness kit?
9004 & 9007 Headlight Relay Kits - CE Auto Electric Supply - Automotive Electrical Solutions
Choose a Bulb Type to View Details
ceautoelectricsupply.com
but it asks if you want it for 9004 or 9007's. Do the 9007's have a different connector that wouldn't work with the existing Foxbody headlight housings?
Would the foglights require its own separate relay harness kit?
Started changing my spark plugs. Pulled out the first one and wanted to test my cheap borescope. This was the drivers side front spark plugs (easiest to get to):
Spark plug shows a little bit of oil on the threads:
And top of the piston:
Maybe this piston just happened to be at the top of the stroke because I couldn’t angle the camera to get a full good view. Definitely looks crusty.
Edit: second cylinder inwards with a side view camera angle showing what I’m assuming is the bottom of a valve and the top of the piston. Also crusty.
Edit #2: third cylinder inward:
The spark plug for this cylinder looks like complete
…
Spark plug shows a little bit of oil on the threads:
And top of the piston:
Maybe this piston just happened to be at the top of the stroke because I couldn’t angle the camera to get a full good view. Definitely looks crusty.
Edit: second cylinder inwards with a side view camera angle showing what I’m assuming is the bottom of a valve and the top of the piston. Also crusty.
Edit #2: third cylinder inward:
The spark plug for this cylinder looks like complete
…
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The new Motorcraft plugs i replaced (so far drivers side only) i gapped to .050. I'm now reading they should be more towards .054. Should i take them out and regap them?
Also getting nervous going down the rabbit hole of oil on spark plugs and hope a rebuild isn't in order. I had planned on it, just not so soon. It could also be as simple as replacing the PCV valve/screen which is on my list of to-do's.
Also getting nervous going down the rabbit hole of oil on spark plugs and hope a rebuild isn't in order. I had planned on it, just not so soon. It could also be as simple as replacing the PCV valve/screen which is on my list of to-do's.
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Any tips/tricks to get the #4 spark plug back in? For the life of me I couldn’t get it to thread in properly Tetris-ing my hands between whatever big tubes are over there and the head/valve cover.
Passenger side plugs all looked a lot better or comparable to the best drivers side plugs.
Passenger side plugs all looked a lot better or comparable to the best drivers side plugs.
Takes Lots of patience for the #4.
I use Socket extensions and swivel joints.
Use a spark plug socket [The rubber insert] helps a lot in holding the plug in place.
I stuff a rag underneath the smog hoses so that everytime I drop the plug or socket [or it disconnects] while trying to thread it in, that it doesn’t fall into the abyss.
Takes me an hour sometimes just to get that 1 plug done!
I use Socket extensions and swivel joints.
Use a spark plug socket [The rubber insert] helps a lot in holding the plug in place.
I stuff a rag underneath the smog hoses so that everytime I drop the plug or socket [or it disconnects] while trying to thread it in, that it doesn’t fall into the abyss.
Takes me an hour sometimes just to get that 1 plug done!
I can literally change it out in 15 minutes from under the car on my Coupe with shorties and it takes about the same time on my T-Bird with the 351 an custom 1-7/8" long tubes.
ok good to know those can be removed easily without causing any issue. I think thats the route i'll go. I may not even have to 'remove' the entire hose assembly, just the back part. Back in the day i KNOW i changed the plugs without removing anything but the air box/tube up to the TB, that's why i tried that way this time... but i'm tired of bending over the side of the car fiddling with it. Will just remove that stuff to make more room.
The drivers side wasn't too bad, its this damn passenger side back plug thats giving me issues.
Ya getting #4 out wasn't too bad, i had three different extensions with a swivel joint in the middle somewhere. I also use a spark plug socket with the rubber boot inside. Putting the plug back in by hand is difficult for me because your hand has to come down from the top, but the plug kind of has to go in sideways so i couldn't spin the plug to thread it in with the way my hand was angled. As @nicholase suggested i'll just remove the smog piping.
For all, what are your thoughts on that nasty #7 plug pictured above?
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