Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Great call. I did gap my plugs to .050 and always wondered if i should gap them less since its supercharged. I've read anywhere from .035 to .045 for supercharged applications but everywhere i've researched those people were running way more boost than i am which is why i didn't gap them lower before.
That, and since the s/c kit is for a 'completely stock' 5.0, it did not say to gap them differently than OEM specs.
Regap the plugs you have for the moment.
Close them up to 0.45 and watch for an improvement.
Close them up to 0.45 and watch for an improvement.
So when doing the KOEO and KOER tests you should get the following:
Code 11 for system pass if no codes exist
Code 10 - spacer code
Code 11 for system pass if no codes exist
IF you do not get the above then it usually means something is up with the ECU.
The thing I do not know is if you will get a code for the fire getting blown out or if a cylinder imbalance test would pick that up or not.
Code 11 for system pass if no codes exist
Code 10 - spacer code
Code 11 for system pass if no codes exist
IF you do not get the above then it usually means something is up with the ECU.
The thing I do not know is if you will get a code for the fire getting blown out or if a cylinder imbalance test would pick that up or not.
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For both KOEO and KOER i get code 34... which i'm aware of. I know something is going on with my EGR system, i have a spare sensor i may pop in to see if maybe my current sensor is 'too long' and reading open when it should be closed. Everything else has been replaced.
Also, i did a cylinder balance test a while back and it came back good.
I think i will try to lower the gap on my plugs and see if that helps with my most recent high rpm issue.
Car seems to run fine except for a vibration at around 1,500 to 2,000 rpm... PO said he put a new clutch in i have a feeling he didn't do something correct with that installation. Harmonic balancer has been replaced and the vibration is there in gear or in neutral.
Also, i did a cylinder balance test a while back and it came back good.
I think i will try to lower the gap on my plugs and see if that helps with my most recent high rpm issue.
Car seems to run fine except for a vibration at around 1,500 to 2,000 rpm... PO said he put a new clutch in i have a feeling he didn't do something correct with that installation. Harmonic balancer has been replaced and the vibration is there in gear or in neutral.
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If the vibration is transitive, I'd probably not be too concerned at first.
At some point, once things have had the chance to settle in a bit, I might go through and loosen/re-tighten drivetrain and mount hardware and see if it finds its own home.
My other thought is that it's a harmonic vibration. All rotating assemblies have these whether it's piston or even a jet engine. These are ranges that you pass through and try not to hang around in.
Best I can think to offer over the webz
At some point, once things have had the chance to settle in a bit, I might go through and loosen/re-tighten drivetrain and mount hardware and see if it finds its own home.
My other thought is that it's a harmonic vibration. All rotating assemblies have these whether it's piston or even a jet engine. These are ranges that you pass through and try not to hang around in.
Best I can think to offer over the webz
The way I understand these computers the cylinder balance test detects issues with the engine running so the issue would have to be present at that time, an intermittent/high RPM miss may trip a 'fat' code but likely not. I'm in agreement with closing up the plug gap.
that settled it, cause I'm obviously an expert on this
that settled it, cause I'm obviously an expert on this
If anyone remembers back in my thread, I thought I was so smart not following directions and installing the alternator supercharger bracket bolt ‘backwards’ so you could remove it without taking the whole bracket assembly off… turns out, after much investigation, that bolt is too long to go in backwards and it was literally hitting the block when fully tightened down… which I suspect with the force of me tightening it down may have ever so slightly pushed the alternator (and maybe the entire bracket) forward.
Anyways, I figured this out so I took the bolt off and removed two threads worth with a dremel, reinstalled it and it no longer hits the block when fully tightened down.
You can see how close the nut is in this photo, picture two full threads of the bolt sticking out of the nut and just pushing against the block.
Anyways, all my stay bracket adjustments may have been for nothing since this bolt could have been altering the angle of the alternator.
Can’t start the car now but I’m confident I can adjust the stay bracket knowing nothing else may be affecting the pulley alignment. Or, I still can’t get it right and pull what’s left of my hair out.
Anyways, I figured this out so I took the bolt off and removed two threads worth with a dremel, reinstalled it and it no longer hits the block when fully tightened down.
You can see how close the nut is in this photo, picture two full threads of the bolt sticking out of the nut and just pushing against the block.
Anyways, all my stay bracket adjustments may have been for nothing since this bolt could have been altering the angle of the alternator.
Can’t start the car now but I’m confident I can adjust the stay bracket knowing nothing else may be affecting the pulley alignment. Or, I still can’t get it right and pull what’s left of my hair out.
So I daily drove my Mustang the week before last to work, and I noticed a knocking noise when going over bumps in the road. At first I thought I didn’t tighten my rear shocks or something all the way (wouldn’t put it past me), but after looking around further I realized my hatch isn’t centered correctly. The drivers side you can push down after it’s latched and create the same knocking noise. The passenger side you cannot push down at all after it’s latched.
Here’s the drivers side:
And here’s the passenger side:
So you can see how it’s off centered.
What adjustments can I do to recenter it as well as not allow it to be pushed down (and create a knocking noise) after it’s latched?
It does have the bump stops on the hatch, but they do look a little old and crusty.
Here’s the drivers side:
And here’s the passenger side:
So you can see how it’s off centered.
What adjustments can I do to recenter it as well as not allow it to be pushed down (and create a knocking noise) after it’s latched?
It does have the bump stops on the hatch, but they do look a little old and crusty.
Any idea on how to adjust the hatch back to center? I can't recall if its always been like this, or if it moving off center is new. I only noticed it recently but i've also been driving the car more lately.
Striker bushing looks really good. Hatch latch all looks good, not bent or anything. Hatch hinges look fine, but i've read there are no side to side adjustments there, only up and down.
I feel like @FastDriver tackled this same rattle a while back on his Fox,if I’m remembering right he got some billet strikers etc
I ordered a FiddleFartFab striker. If it doesn’t work, still a cool piece to have.
Edit: after doing some further research, it looks like you can adjust the striker, so once my fiddlefartfab striker comes in, i will test to see if i can move the striker like a 1/4" to the passenger side.
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Nope... I just did this yesterday, so good timing! The hatch bolts to the top with 2 bolts that you can access if you remove the rear ceiling cross panel in the interior. You'll need a buddy to hold the hatch and disconnect the hatch err... shocks. Then, close the hatch, center, crawl inside and tighten dow the hatch bolts. Have your biddy lift it back up, and then reinstall the erm... hatch shocks.
I tried the FF strikers, and after blowing money on the wrong ones and being refunded, I ran into him at Foxtoberfest, last year, and got his new ones. They worked with my doors. They did not work with my hatch. Well,... they rattle. That said, after recentering it, last night, it is working now on the FF hatch striker. But... It's making lots of noise. Makes me wanna go back to the plastic bushing, but I wanna try adjusting the striker a bit lower so that there's little to no slack, which might prevent rattling. If that doesn't work, I'll reinstall the stockers. I have to say that my 93, with a different latch has no issues. So, I might eventually convert both of my 91s to the 93 hatch lock & maybe door locks (for 1 key).
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Gathering parts for my steering system refresh.
I have or have ordered:
- SPR-ZK steering rack (ordered for a 2004 GT but I think it’s the same for like all 94-04 mustangs)
- SN95 outer tie rods
- Fox inner tie rods
- urethane rack bushings
- Motorcraft (reman) PS pump
- new high/low pressure lines
I think all that’s left is the MM hybrid steering shaft. Anything else I’m missing besides PS fluid?
I have or have ordered:
- SPR-ZK steering rack (ordered for a 2004 GT but I think it’s the same for like all 94-04 mustangs)
- SN95 outer tie rods
- Fox inner tie rods
- urethane rack bushings
- Motorcraft (reman) PS pump
- new high/low pressure lines
I think all that’s left is the MM hybrid steering shaft. Anything else I’m missing besides PS fluid?
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