late model alternator

66 BLAKE 96

Native Texican
Founding Member
Feb 16, 2001
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What are my choices when going with a latemodel alternator? I'm installing an '85 5.0 and keeping the serpentine setup. Since I need a new alternator anyway, which should I go with? One-wire, stock '85, 3G (likely out of my price range, but I still want to know what's out there).

Any wiring advice or links you may have would be great. :nice:
 
This might help ya there Blake. I don't remember where I got it or I would credit the originator

3Ginstall.jpg
 
Umm, Blake, a 1985 alternator would be a 2G not a 3G, correct?

I have a 3G on my '65, and it's hooked up very similar to the pic that gp posted.
Except, the Yellow/White wire doesn't need to go to the solenoid. It can go right from the plug-in, to the stud where the charge wire on the alternator is attached. Doesn't really matter where you put it, I just think it would be easier with it mounted to that stud on the alternator.

You can get the 175A fuse at any auto parts store for about $12.

This thing should have PLENTY of power too. I was reading that at IDLE the 3G cranks out 80 amps (up to 150 amps MAX) compared to the stock alternator which can make 40-65 MAX. :nice:
 
You can get a re'spool' kit for an externally regulated ford Alternator for about $40. It will turn make your stock alternator put out 105a. As for a stock 85 alternator...trash it or have it rebuilt and beefed up. They are pretty weak.
 
Fostang said:

I'm not sure what you mean then, Fostang. You want to REMOVE the stock voltage regulator, correct? If so, I would say take the voltage regulator off and remove the wires. The 3G is internally regulated. With my EFI harness, I have a connector that connects the alternator straight into the harness with one wire. I don't know why the voltage regulator part in the 3G would require a special way for it to be hooked up. :shrug:
 
On the early cars just unplug your original alt. wire harness. You can leave your original voltage regulator hooked up to the engine compartment main harness and it wont ever know the difference. I do it this way so it still looks stock plus if I ever got into a jam and the parts house does not have G3 then I can just plug the stock G1 style alternator and harness back on the car and drive off. I started swapping these in about 1998 and I love the G3.

I also have built up the G1 's with both a 75 and 100 amp kits the problem with this is as you increase the overall output you loose the output at idle.
What I mean is that the upgraded G1 will have a little less output at idle then it had before the upgrade. The G3 the best output at idle between 80-90 amps!

I have a 70 bronco, 68 mustang and 90 mustang all running G3's, and one life time warrantee covers all three vehicles YEA!
 
i'm planning on using the 2g on mine, because i like the more stock look of it as compared to the 3g, especially if it is clocked righht so that all the wiring connectors are on the bottom side and out of sight for the most part