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LCA - Steeda or Maximum??

  • Thread starter Thread starter tunedin302
  • Start date Start date Sep 28, 2005

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 28, 2005
#1
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #1
Looking for some weight jacker LCA for street use. Don't take my car to the track, will just be looking to improve street performance. .... trying to decide between MM and Steeda (also copied by Granitelli). Anybody have any experience with either one? Thanks in advance.
 
9

9 Deuce GT

Member
Dec 10, 2003
550
1
16
Geneva, NY
Sep 29, 2005
#2
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #2
Do you want to raise or lower the rear? Just trying to get a feel for what you are trying to do.

How about Coilovers?
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 29, 2005
#3
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #3
9 Deuce GT said:
Do you want to raise or lower the rear? Just trying to get a feel for what you are trying to do.

How about Coilovers?
Click to expand...

Just looking to bring the rear up about 1/4". Coilovers may be an option but I really have no problem with the eibachs currently on my car. I'm also concerned about the coilovers hitting the inside of my front wheel since they are a 9".
 

JaysGreenLX

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2000
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Buffalo, NY
Sep 29, 2005
#4
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #4
I would go with Maximum. They use a combination of spherical bushings as well as the poly. This cuts axle binding that you would normally see with all poly bushing LCAs. Plus Maximum is just a better product.
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 29, 2005
#5
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #5
JaysGreenLX said:
I would go with Maximum. They use a combination of spherical bushings as well as the poly. This cuts axle binding that you would normally see with all poly bushing LCAs. Plus Maximum is just a better product.
Click to expand...

I love Maximum's stuff but I was very impressed with the Steeda piece as well. The damn Steeda controls arms are about $100 more than the MM
Here's some images if anybody is interested:

Maximum: MSRP $380

View attachment 502504

Steeda: MSRP $460-$500

View attachment 502505
 

wht93gtEd

Active Member
Nov 11, 2004
0
9
29
Jersey Shore, New Jersey
Sep 29, 2005
#6
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #6
I think the Steeda's are more because they're much lighter than the MM...

my Steeda aluminum lower and upper's are scheduled to arrive straight from Steeda today!!

Also, I was talking to Gene at Wild Rides, and he was telling me that spherical bushings are great, but they require yearly maintenance...i.e: taking them apart and cleaning & whatever else. He said, for street cars, just go with something that has a poly bushing instead. He said that they're much more friendly for a street driven car.

so that's what I did. I didn't go with the weight jacker arms, but I did go with the aluminum steeda's. Also, I called Steeda because the price in MM&FF was $50 cheaper than their website. So the guy gave me the price in the magazine. There was some "source code" in the ad which I had to give to him.
 

JaysGreenLX

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2000
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Buffalo, NY
Sep 29, 2005
#7
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #7
tunedin302 said:
I love Maximum's stuff but I was very impressed with the Steeda piece as well. The damn Steeda controls arms are about $100 more than the MM
Here's some images if anybody is interested:

Maximum: MSRP $380

View attachment 502481

Steeda: MSRP $460-$500

View attachment 502484
Click to expand...


That should make the choice easy. Better and cheaper. MM>Steeda
 

Mavrick

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2002
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46
Collingwood, ON
Sep 29, 2005
#8
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #8
wht93gtEd said:
Also, I was talking to Gene at Wild Rides, and he was telling me that spherical bushings are great, but they require yearly maintenance...i.e: taking them apart and cleaning & whatever else. He said, for street cars, just go with something that has a poly bushing instead. He said that they're much more friendly for a street driven car.
Click to expand...

The above info is the exact opposite of what i gathered after researching MM lower control arms..

Poly bushings on either side of the control arm are much LESS friendly on your torque boxes than a control arm like MM's where there is a spherical bushing in the works. The spherical bushing prevents bind when the car is under hard loads.

Too much bind can cause snap over steer and puts a lot of stress on your torque boxes under load (corners etc).

I've never read anything about having to maintain spherical bushings by taking them apart every year...
 

CoupedUp

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Aug 26, 2005
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Gone Fishing
Sep 29, 2005
#9
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #9
Got the Steeda weightjackers for $389 from Steeda ... or you can get them on partsshopper for $399.

I bought them on advice from Jamie (Rancherostang?).
They are light, but I mainly got them so I can raise my rear level with the front (you know how our springs are )

They work really great! I haven't experienced any "snap oversteer" or bind with them. I also installed the aluminum uppers with the same 3-piece bushings. I run them on the street and pound it as hard as you can with street radials and 350+rw. Although they were just a little stiff until they broke in. (like all poly ... just has better memory than rubber)

As far as the spherical rod maintainence ... that makes nothing but a great deal of sense to me ... they're an open design
 

STANGateURlilSS

Founding Member
May 2, 2002
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USA & SANDBOX
Sep 29, 2005
#10
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #10
the steedas are also made of alum.. hence the higher price.. but they have poly bushings on both ends.. while the mm's only run one poly bushing.. i would stay away from the poly.. and go for the mm's and they are steel, and quite a bit cheaper.. not saying steeda isn't good quality.. but for the price and mm's is the way to go
 

CoupedUp

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Sep 29, 2005
#11
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #11
Poly isn't ideal on the diff ears for the upper ... I have factory rubber there.

On the lowers it isn't a big deal ... for a road track vehicle, I would probably buy MM, for a street/dd Steeda.

You can't ignore the maintenance issue .. call MM and have them guarantee the lowers from grime/grit deterioration first
 

JaysGreenLX

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Oct 8, 2000
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Buffalo, NY
Sep 29, 2005
#12
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #12
CoupedUp said:
Poly isn't ideal on the diff ears for the upper ... I have factory rubber there.

On the lowers it isn't a big deal ... for a road track vehicle, I would probably buy MM, for a street/dd Steeda.

You can't ignore the maintenance issue .. call MM and have them guarantee the lowers from grime/grip deterioration first
Click to expand...

I've done lots of research on this and I have found that MM lowers with the Ford heavy duty uppers are pretty much the ideal set up for a mostly street driven car.
 

CoupedUp

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#13
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #13
What about these:

http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Pro3-Mustang-Jacker-Lower-Control-Arms-79-04-m178.html

 

JaysGreenLX

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2000
2,252
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0
Buffalo, NY
Sep 29, 2005
#14
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #14
CoupedUp said:
What about these:

http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Pro3-Mustang-Jacker-Lower-Control-Arms-79-04-m178.html

Click to expand...


Basically the MM weight jackers. I don't know how they compare.
A guy who I used to see on here years ago, GroverDill had them on his car. I don't even know if hes still active here.
 

CoupedUp

Banned
Aug 26, 2005
260
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Gone Fishing
Sep 29, 2005
#15
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #15
JaysGreenLX said:
..... A guy who I used to see on here years ago, GroverDill had them on his car. I don't even know if hes still active here.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't know .. haven't seen him lately either.
... seems to be a lot of alien abduction 'round here
 

wht93gtEd

Active Member
Nov 11, 2004
0
9
29
Jersey Shore, New Jersey
Sep 30, 2005
#16
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #16
Mavrick said:
The above info is the exact opposite of what i gathered after researching MM lower control arms..

Poly bushings on either side of the control arm are much LESS friendly on your torque boxes than a control arm like MM's where there is a spherical bushing in the works. The spherical bushing prevents bind when the car is under hard loads.

Too much bind can cause snap over steer and puts a lot of stress on your torque boxes under load (corners etc).

I've never read anything about having to maintain spherical bushings by taking them apart every year...
Click to expand...

ahh; allow me to re-phrase...

I was looking into buying the Wild Rides brand uca's\lca's, but those use solid aluminum bushings on the bottom arms with a spherical rod end on the upper arm. Those are the ones he told me wouldn't be friendly on the street. He said that I'd hear a lot of noise from the rear suspension, with the solid bushings, and I'd have to regrease them every time it rains. Plus the maintenance on the rod ends.

Here's what Steeda has to say about their uppers:

Multiple-density bushings help eliminate the noise, vibration, and suspension bind problems found with some control arms on the market. The results: racing traction and control, with the smoothness of a street car.

Exclusive three part, two phase bushing:
- Center bushing reduces deflection for Maximum Traction
- Special outer bushings-reduce suspension bind for better stability over uneven pavement
- Improved handling
- Better ride quality and less noise than hard or solid bushings
- Won't damage upper "torque boxes" like other arms with solid bushings

This is what they claim, and they (WR) told me that they've seen great results with them. They run all kinds of combinations, and these seem to work out fine. Besides, I think I might have some battle boxes installed while my car's there anyway

hopefully I have cleared things up
 
S

strokedandblown

Banned
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USA
Sep 30, 2005
#17
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #17
CoupedUp said:
What about these:

http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Pro3-Mustang-Jacker-Lower-Control-Arms-79-04-m178.html

Click to expand...


im with you these are no good, or just a copy that is sold cheaper???
 
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