- Sep 1, 2003
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LCA & UCA install write up (NEED ONE ASAP)
- Thread starter cobra dave
- Start date
94-302-vert
Active Member
the basics are put car (not rear end) on jack stands, unbolt and repalce one at a time, support car under the axle (jackstands), tighten all bolts.
I did one at a time, had to remove my rar brakes in order to get the two lower bolts out. SInce I was doing te springs at the same time I removed those first.
It is not a hard job jsut time consuming. It is only 8 bolts and since I was swapping the rubber for poly insulators it took me probably 6 hours total to do the rear arms.
I did one at a time, had to remove my rar brakes in order to get the two lower bolts out. SInce I was doing te springs at the same time I removed those first.
It is not a hard job jsut time consuming. It is only 8 bolts and since I was swapping the rubber for poly insulators it took me probably 6 hours total to do the rear arms.
Piece of cake. Just follow the instructions 94302vert just gave. However, the real pain in the butt is getting out the pressed in busings for the new upper control arms. Basically, for those you just take a drill and bit and walk the thing in and out alot until you get the thing out in pieces. Make sure the new bushing is going into a smooth hole. A little lube that is supplied w/the bushings is all that's needed. Couple hits with a hammer and wood and it's in. I also did springs at the same time.
94-302-vert
Active Member
Good point ont eh upper axle bushings.. i found that I used a hammer and screwdriver to chunk out most of it since I didn't get the drill thing to work well.
After a while when i had most of it out I used a torch to heat the screwdriver and use that to push through the rubber and scrape it clean... On the pass side i used the torch directly in the hold but the drivers side had a brake line pretty close to wehre I was working..
After a while when i had most of it out I used a torch to heat the screwdriver and use that to push through the rubber and scrape it clean... On the pass side i used the torch directly in the hold but the drivers side had a brake line pretty close to wehre I was working..
LCA install-http://www.corral.net/projects/subzero/szlowers.html
also www.stangpro.com has a write up called "The strong arm" is good too
also www.stangpro.com has a write up called "The strong arm" is good too
MysteryMachine
Active Member
yeah its easy once you get going with it the biggest pain in the axle bushing MM has a tool thats like 49 bucks when its all said and done i was tired of messing with them so i bought the tool made things a lot eaiser. I'm willing to rent it out for a couple bucks if anybody's interested hit me up and i'll go over my renting idea
super302
I'd do anything for free Bapples
It is pretty easy, i suggest using a frame lift if you have access to one, I'm sure it will be a huge pain in the ass changing uppers if you only have jackstands
MysteryMachine
Active Member
super302 said:
HA HA SO TRUE but without a lift its a pain in the ass to do anything under a car
EDIT: lol i had without a life if anybody noticed but that makes it easy cause you have nothing else to do and thats pretty much how my weekend is cause my gf is away this weekend
MysteryMachine
Active Member
96darkhorse said:
You had help. My dad only came out when i needed help oter wise i did it myself and its not that bad the hardest part is changing them axle bushings which i said before and trying the get tools up under the car is a pain. I went out and bought a new $70 torque wrench with a ratchet head just so i could torque the bolts. And another question for you what kinda surface was your car sitting on. Was it in a garage, paved driveway? mines in a stoned, uneven, rutted, driveway makes things go a little tougher. And did you replace the axle bushing?
OH IF ANY OF YOU GUYS DOING THIS OR GOING TO BE DOING THIS NEED ANY HELP WITH ANYTHING HIT ME UP BEINGS I JUST DID IT. Be nice answering questions on something I actually know about
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