LCA with screw in balljoint..any benefits?

c24sc

New Member
Jan 1, 2008
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Hey guys,
Well, I had a chance to pick up some used (virtually brand new) parts from a local guy. I picked up a set of lower control arms with screw in ball joints. I was wondering if theres any benefits to them. They arm itself seems beefier them my grab a trek ones I just installed.

Any info would be great. I thought open tracker sold them, but didn't see them on their website. Does anybody know who makes them?

Heres a link to a guy on cardomain that has pictures of them.

Lower control arms with screw in ball joints.

Thanks!
Nate
 
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If you have a screw in ball joint you can easily replace it. Since the arms are boxed and the balljoint is screw in, that control arm will last forever. Does it have the spherical bearing in it as well ?
 
If you have a screw in ball joint you can easily replace it. Since the arms are boxed and the balljoint is screw in, that control arm will last forever. Does it have the spherical bearing in it as well ?


No it does not have a spherical bearing in there. But who sells the screw in ball joint then? I know i've seen it somewhere, but haven't come across it again.

Thanks.
Nate
 
Here Ya Go ! - Afco racing sells them. The ball joint is #20034, the weld in sleeve is #20043. I've done it many times and it is a fun project.


20034.jpg


http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...e=20034&Category_Code=ct_standard-ball-joints

20043.jpg


http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...roduct_Code=20043&Category_Code=ct_bj-sleeves

diyrollerlowerarm-300.jpg

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/diyrollerlowerarm.html
We have the kits with spherical bearing
 
Thanks for the info opentracker.

But other then the being able to replace them easily, is there any real benefit? Also, theres only a couple of tack welds holding the sleeve in. Should I put a couple of more, or is that strong enough?

Thanks.

Nate
 
If its just tack welds holding it in place I wouldn't use the arm. If it were me, I'd have the thing welded all the way around 360*.

The cost of a new ball join vs the cost of a new arm is a large enough difference to make it worth while.
 
another thing to remember, ALWAYS use a quality ball joint when replacing them. my buddy put tubular control arms, using the same ball joints, under a 41 ford street rod. long story short, the ball separated from the socket 250 miles from home.turns out the company that put together the mustang II subframe used substandard off the shelf items. the coil springs had settled close to 3/4" in free height, and probibly 50 lbs on spring rate. if you buy a used setup, for peace of mind, i would go over any questionable welds, and replace the ball joints with either afco, or moog pieces.
 
Update:

Well, I got them on the work bench at home. Going to tig or mig weld the sleeve a bit more. But was going to unscrew the ball joint out of the sleeve. But is there a trick to it..?? lol. Cause channel locks won't break it loose. And its not 100% like the afco ones that have a hex bottom. Its completely round, just like the ones in the cardomain link I had in the original post.

wtf..how are they suppose to come out of the sleeve. better yet, how are you suppose to tighten them.

Mmm.. (insert your experience here).

Nate