Leak

jrc_03_gt

New Member
Jan 1, 2004
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Anyone have problems with the rearend leaking after a gear swap? I had a swap done and Its leaking slowly. Someone told me that the newer stangs dont have a gasket just some kind of silicone to seal the housing. When did they quit using the gaskets? I have a 2003 gt. I think Im going to have a gasket put in there. :shrug:
 
I hope the gasket works . This will be the 2nd time they tried to fix the leak.
Could the cover have been overtightened? I dont know how thick that cover is maybe it is crimped now and does not fit how it should. Does anyone know how thick the cover is? Should I get an aftermarket cover for the rearend from jegs? :shrug:
 
my diff started leaking at around 7,000 miles. just buy the silicon from the dealership (don't forget to buy the limited slip additive and gear oil while your there). take off the cover yourself then scrape off the old silicon using a razor blade. then set the cover on a flat surface and check to see that are no spots where it bends up. then what you want to do if scrape the old silicon off the diff. itself. clean everything really well and apply the silicon (use a lot, but not all of it) to the cover. then bolt on the cover to the diff. try to use a sequence like that of tightening a tire. don't forget to add that limited slip additive.

i did this myself because i didn't want the dealership to add any "hard" miles to my car. dealership porters know what i'm talking about.

my 2001 gt now has 35,000 miles on it without a leak.


whhooops i didn't see the last two posts, but go down there and check. it's most likely the differential cover. it's easier than you might think.
 
Again I think its up by the driveshaft and then blowing back. If so did someone say there is a pinion seal? How involved is that to fix. Is it fixable in a hour or two? Thanks for the info. :nice:
 
there are 2 ways to do it, theres the correct way, and the way everyone does it. the way everyone does it involves taking off teh driveshaft and punching the nut and flange with a punch and taking the nut off, then replacing the seal and putting the nut back on and tightening it about 1/16th of an inch past the mark. the correct way involves taking the pinion gear out replacing the crush sleeve and then resetting pinion depth and replacing the seal.