I would not and have not hesitated to put Black Gasket Maker like [The Right Stuff] on those gaskets. A thin coat on each side will do. I've also replaced gaskets with the same stuff.
Don't overdue it. Whatever squishes out from beneath the surface goes inside too.
Extra Note: Let it fully cure before running the engine. Full 24 hours if it's inside. Longer if not.
Don't overdue it. Whatever squishes out from beneath the surface goes inside too.
Extra Note: Let it fully cure before running the engine. Full 24 hours if it's inside. Longer if not.
I’ve never really let it tack up. Usually I’ll just put rtv on, barely tighten and let it sit for a few mins, then torque everything down. I do usually use a gasket and rtv on the water pump, but I’ve put thermostat housings on with just black rtv this way.
I also always pull the back cover plate off and put a thin coat of rtv on the back gasket. Never had one leak.
Are you referring to the back plate on the WP? So it's leaking at the bottom between the WP and the back plate?
If so, I had this problem on both my 90 coupe and 93 lx hatch after replacing the WP. I would get a slow drip when car was running. It would stop once the car was off.
I would put permatex form a gasket. And blue loc tite on the back plate bolts.
Honestly it drove me nuts, but after a few heat cycles both stopped leaking.
If so, I had this problem on both my 90 coupe and 93 lx hatch after replacing the WP. I would get a slow drip when car was running. It would stop once the car was off.
I would put permatex form a gasket. And blue loc tite on the back plate bolts.
Honestly it drove me nuts, but after a few heat cycles both stopped leaking.
That T-stat is not going to start coming off its seat until 192 deg F so full open will be warmer than that. The other thing you need to take into account is that even though it is stamped 192 deg F doesn't necessary mean it will open at that temperature. I have seen the parts store brand units vary +/- 5 degrees on the regular over the years. I run a Robertshaw in both of my cars and have had zero issues and they open at the rated temperature.
Also, the car will run warmer not moving unless you have an electric fan that is worth a crap (Mark VIII, Contour, etc.). You can put a heavy duty clutch on a stock fan and it will help but make sure you have the shroud and you also have the deflectors on either side of the radiator.
Also, the car will run warmer not moving unless you have an electric fan that is worth a crap (Mark VIII, Contour, etc.). You can put a heavy duty clutch on a stock fan and it will help but make sure you have the shroud and you also have the deflectors on either side of the radiator.
Mustang Radiator Side Air Deflector Pair (79-93) E4ZZ-8310
Replace those rotted out radiator side air deflectors on your 1979-1993 Mustang with these direct replacements from 5.0 Resto!
200° is where the factory wanted our cars to run. I used to use 2000 jeep cherokee wlectric fans im my mustangs. They'd trim pretty easy and install inside the factory shroud with a few bolts and washers. Now, I run Ford Contour fans. My turbo car likes to be around 203°. I run a 192 thermostat. Cruising temps drop to about 196°. My car never goes above 213°
go to the JY and get a Contour dual fan, an SN95, or a Taurus fan from a V6. They are OEM, cheap, easily replaceable and pull well over 3000CFM. Couple that with a FAL33165 controller and you are set. Been done 10000 times and multiple write ups here and on the Corral.