Leaky Water Pump=More work

[Makdaddymac]

well i was going to have my 373's installed this friday(tommorow) but my water pump decided to leak! so its off, but not wihtou a bolt breaking off, yep stuck in the block??? so now the front cover is coming off. so i guess i mine as well replace the timing chain,waterpump,new hoses,gaskets,front seal,silicone etc etc....so basically near 100.00 worth of stuff.

but i was wondering where to get the bolt replaced. autozone bolt selection has never helped me in the past...and i was wondering if you guys know the specs for the water pump bolts...... it is metric but i cant remeber exactly what size but besides that i need help.details

thanks guys

 

[monte87]

Which bolt was it exactly?
I just had my water pump and timing chain off the car, took exact sizes, spec's and all, They are at home though. Which bolt, going clockwise from the passenger side to drivers side... Was it a stud or bolt?
hit me back < i can help you.
Anthony

 

[monte87]

DOooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo your self the biggest favor when installing them, I would def buy "PERMATEX with teflon and antiseize". Be super generous with it, especially in the bolts that go into the block/water passages, its a bit expensive, but worth it in the end.

 

[monte87]

Here ya go- via napa parts-
I recommend NAPA/Permatex w/teflon and anti-seize 765-1151

 

[monte87]

Here ya go as well-

Courtesy of 5spd GT

Here are some specs on the OEM fasteners, going clockwise looking at the
front of the engine, starting at the lower passenger side:

All threads are 5/16-18 pitch except for the stud portion of #6-9
which is 3/8-16

#1 Stud/Bolt, OAL 3-5/16, UHL 2.25
Bolt threaded 1", shank 1.25 (1 + 1.25 = 2.25" UHL)
Flange head .25", 5/16-18 stud thread = 13/16"
1 + 1.25 + .25 + 13/16 = 3-5/16" OAL
Drive size is 1/2"
Notes: This bolt/stud clamps the TCC to the block, retains the
timing tab,
and the stud retains the support bracket for the AIR pump,
accessory nut is 5/16-18, 1/2" drive (not a flange nut, but
could be)

#2 Stud/Bolt, OAL 3-1/16, UHL 2.25
Bolt threaded 1", shank 1 (1 + 1 = 2" UHL)
Flange head .25", 5/16-18 stud thread = 13/16"
1 + 1 + .25 + 13/16 = 3-1/16" OAL
Drive size is 1/2"
Notes: Same as #1, but the shank is .25" shorter. This bolt/stud
clamps the
TCC to the block, and retains the timing tab. Stud may be unused

#3 Bolt, OAL 4-1/16, UHL 3-7/8
Bolt threaded 1", shank 2-7/8 (1 + 2/7/8 = 3-7/8" UHL)
Standard head 3/16"
1 + 2-7/8 + 3/16 = 4-1/16" OAL
Drive size is 5/8"
Notes: Clamps water pump to TCC and TCC to block

#4 Same as #3

#5 Bolt, OAL 2-7/8, UHL 2-11/16
Bolt threaded 1", shank 1-11/16 (1 + 1-11/16 = 2-11/16" UHL)
Standard head 3/16"
1 + 1-11/16 + 3/16 = 2-7/8" OAL
Drive size is 5/8"
Notes: Clamps water pump to TCC

#6 Stud/Bolt, OAL 3-7/16, UHL 1-15/16
Bolt threaded 1", shank 15/16 (1 + 15/16 = 1-15/16" UHL)
Standard head 3/16", 3/8-16 stud thread = 1-5/16"
1 + 15/16 +3/16 + 1-5/16 = 3-7/16" OAL
Drive size is 5/8"
Notes: Stud retains accessory, accessory flange nut is 3/8-16,
9/16 drive
Clamps water pump to TCC

#7 Same as #6

#8 Stud/Bolt, OAL 5-5/16, UHL 5-1/16
Bolt threaded 1", shank 2-7/8 (1 + 2-7/8 = 3-7/8" UHL)
Standard head 3/16", 3/8-16 stud thread = 1-1/4"
1 + 2-7/8 +3/16 + 1-1/4 = 5-5/16" OAL
Drive size is 5/8"
Notes: Stud retains accessory, accessory flange nut is 3/8-16,
9/16 drive
Clamps water pump to TCC and TCC to block

#9 Stud/Bolt, OAL 6-1/2, UHL 5-1/16
Bolt threaded 7/8", shank 4-3/16 (7/8 + 4-3/16 = 5-1/16" UHL)
Standard head 3/16", 3/8-16 stud thread = 1-1/4"
7/8 + 4-3/16 + 3/16 + 1-1/4 = 6-1/2" OAL
Drive size is 5/8"
Notes: Stud retains accessory, accessory flange nut is 3/8-16,
9/16 drive
Clamps water pump to TCC and TCC to block

#10 Bolt, OAL 2-1/4, UHL 2
Bolt threaded 1", shank 1 (1 + 1 = 2" UHL)
Flange head 1/4"
1 + 1 + 1/4 = 2-1/4" OAL
Drive size is 1/2"
Notes: Clamps TCC to block

#11 Same as #10

#12 Bolt, OAL 1-1/8, UHL 7/8
Bolt threaded 7/8", no shank (7/8 + 0* = 7/8" UHL)
Flange head 1/4"
7/8 + 1/4 = 1-1/8" OAL
Drive size is 1/2"
Notes: Clamps TCC to block (top, near intake)

#13 Same as #12

Ford studs use 5/16” on the engine side and 3/8” studs on the accessory side.

From Helmut Roner for timing cover/water pump bolts for no p/s and no a/c:

Lowes Hardware:

One 5/16 x 5½ inch @ $.47, Item # 55819.
Six 5/16 x 2 inch @ $.16 each, Item # 63319.
Three 5/16 x 4 inch @ $.28 each, Item # 63322
One 5/16 x? inch @ $. , Item # ?????

The last one I typed I don't have, yet. It should be 2-3/4 to 3 inches long. I bought a 2½ and not much of the threads go far enough into the timing cover. It's for the bolt hole that is between the two water ports on the upper left of the water pump. I'll have that info later tomorrow.

The bolts for the water pump pulley to be used without a belt-driven fan are 5/16 x 3/4 24-thread. The two rearmost cover bolts which bolt the cover to the block (not shown) are 5/16 x 3/4 inch. I am scavenging those from an ARP bolt kit that I have which can't be used with late model timing covers. Only a few from the kit could be used as the kit was designed for older model 289/302/351W timing covers._________________

I THINK THIS SHOULD COVER IT NOW.

GOOD LUCK AND LATER ANTHONY
~SEMPER FI~

 

[Makdaddymac]

holy smokes monte to the rescue
your the man!

 

[monte87]

No doubt!!!! Your welcome Stangnet is a brotherhood, why not help a bro out I have been through the water pump dilemma, wayyyyyyyyyy to many times-and i can relate, so learn from my mistakes and you'll be alright.

Glad to help man,
Later Ant

holy smokes monte to the rescue
your the man!

 

[89 Saleen#455]

Makdaddy - Be careful not to overtighten the new bolts and studs. It increases your chances of snapping bolts the next time the water pump needs to be replaced. If your current pump is not original, the previous installer probably over-torqued the bolts which certainly contributed to the bolt snapping during removal. Here are the proper torque specs for the waterpump bolts and studs:

Water Pump to Timing Cover 12-18 Lb-Ft
Water Pump to Engine Block 12-18 Lb- Ft

As everyone else has mentioned, use plenty of anti-seize on the new bolts and studs. I would also recommend replacing all the bolts and studs given that they've probably weakened a bit over the years. Why risk snapping another bolt in the future? Cheap insurance and peace of mind.

Good Luck!

 

[Mustang5L5]

5.0 water pumps are a little PITA to replace. Always a messy job. When i did mine, it took me 3 days because i was snapping bolts and making a mess and swearing.


Have any of you guys done a water pump on a 4.6L Mustang? It's a joke how easy it is. I changed one and refilled the coolant system in 30 minutes on my GT a couple weeks back.

 

[Makdaddymac]

well i broke the timing cover prying it off got another one bt i want paying attention and its missing the guides.....!!!! but i should be ok and yah i got some replacement bolts...i should've replaced this thing during my top end swap, but if it aint broke dont fix it...
the rad flush and new antifreeze probably woke up the old crud holding it together.

its all good cause its just an issue that is forcing me to do maintance anyways..... nothing bad about
new seals,gaskets,timing chain, etc etc......the front seal was leaking badly anyways....

 

[TomCat]

Heh, I broke mine and forgot the guides too. Been great so far. Glad to hear it's gone well, though.

 

[89 Saleen#455]

Just curious. Did you guys snap your bolts using an impact wrench or large breaker bar?

Anyone try heating the area around the bolts with a propane torch before trying to break the bolts loose? I've been meaning to replace my leaking waterpump for about a year, but I'm nervous as hell about snapping a bolt or stud. In the past, I've always had luck with a propane torch on stubborn bolts, however given that the water pump bolts sit in a waterjacket, I'm not sure using a torch will have any value in breaking the bolts loose. Kind of like sweating a cooper pipe that still has some water left behind.....it just doesn't take the heat very well.

 

[TomCat]

Just curious. Did you guys snap your bolts using an impact wrench or large breaker bar?

Anyone try heating the area around the bolts with a propane torch before trying to break the bolts loose? I've been meaning to replace my leaking waterpump for about a year, but I'm nervous as hell about snapping a bolt or stud. In the past, I've always had luck with a propane torch on stubborn bolts, however given that the water pump bolts sit in a waterjacket, I'm not sure using a torch will have any value in breaking the bolts loose. Kind of like sweating a cooper pipe that still has some water left behind.....it just doesn't take the heat very well.

I broke mine with a standard issue 3/8 ratchet They took barely any torque.
When I was dealing with them, people told me to go the propane route... didn't get a chance to test it out, but I managed just fine with a combination of drilling, EZ outs, vice grips and plenty of penetrating compound. I would just soak them for a while in PB blaster and give it a shot. You may get lucky

 

[monte87]

Ya know, the 4 times i swapped W/P on the stang, i never had a bolt break ever. Just use a TQ wrench and spec it 12-18lbs and once again-Dont be shy with the permatex teflon/Anti-seize, Its your best friend. i think that stuff made the difference bewteen bolts breakingfor the future. Never had them leak either- THANK GOD!!!

Later Ant & Good luck.
P.S. TQ WRENCH BOLTS & Lots of PERMATEX w/TEFLON and ANTISEIZE COMPOUND-cannot stress this enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Makdaddymac]

all done for now, thermostat cogged out of it groove on 1st install so it was leaking! got that fixed (2nd time the charm thus far).....
got some new bolts,and this far no leaks!!?!?!? but i have to wait for the coolant to drain down a little and cheack again, me and coolant leaks dont mix for sure. if anyone knows i had to install my gt40 intake 4 times to get it leak free...........!!!!!!!!!!!!! ended up ditching the rubber front and rear intake seals and boom! fixed...!!!!!

also my temperature ran a little higher than right on the R mark using the good ol stock (n-o-r-m-a-l), it usually runs at the M but i also had my rad cap off to add fluid and watch for an opening t-stat...
ps. runnning a 180* btw


PSS... yes trq wrench + antiseze = teh win!
i know the idiot who did the previous waterpump over tightened...making my job a whole lot harder

 

[monte87]

Glad to hear yoru back in business. I know coolant leaks can be a MF!!!!! Funny thing, I now have a small drip T-stat leak.. And its a stocker aluminum,. I ran multiple chrome housings in the past, never had a leak. Just put a stocker on-Now it leaks. I hate leaks especially A/F. Have to rip it off and re-do it. Ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Later Ant