Lean/Rich Question

Trail of Dead said:
Well now I have to take the car back to the independant shop tomorrow because the guy who sold it to us thinks that since the check engine light came on that the garage will now be able to find the problem. RRRRRR! This is taking so flippin' long to fix, I've seen complete engines get rebuilt faster! It sucks, I look in my driveway and there sits this Mustang GT that I can't drive. I know I shouldn't drive it anyways, but I HAVE to take it to Advance Auto today and have them hook up to my PCM and tell me what the code is so I know what the problem is. By the way, what is a "spun" bearing? :shrug:



don't scan the code... they will end up erasing it and the shop people will not know what the code is.

A spun bearing is when one of the main or rod bearings spins in it's bore.. when this happens the motor is junk.. I don't think this will happen to you.. but if you oil is diluted with fuel then it might.
 
Hi all, well my car is sitting in the parking lot of the garage that worked on it. I had class today, couldn't pick it up. Anyways, my wife spoke to the tech and he told her that the code the computer was throwing was for a coil. I'm not sure, but she said he told her the code was a code 5.??? Is this the right code for a faulty coil, or anything ignition related for that matter? He said it's fixed and is running right finally. I'm a little skeptical, so I'll have to drive it to believe it. Anyone have some input about this code 5?
 
there is no such thing as a code 5.. all of our powertrain codes are in the P for powertrain then a 4 digit number format.. for example..

P0305 would be misfire cyl #5

Well I would not be surprised if it was a coil.. they go all the time.

But still change that oil.. you do not want to run oil in your car that has had fuel contamination.. I don't care what this guy says.. not only can it cause the misfire to come back but you can destroy the motor
 
Thanks for the fast reply SVT, my wife was talking to the guy......catch my drift. He probably told her that very code you just said, but had no clue what he was saying and only remebered the 5 part of it. Where is cylinder five located? The coil that they replaced last week was the first cylinder on the drivers side closet to the radiator. Also, would I be able to order an owners manual from the ford dealer and how much do they cost? Mine didn't come with one.
 
Just out of curiosity, if the threads in the hole that the little gold bolt goes in feel stripped and the coil kinda wiggles a little could that have caused the coil to go bad? Whe I first noticed this problem I went to pull the coil off to check if they really did change plugs, I noticed that the bolt wasn't tight. At, least it wasnt' as tight as the rest of the coils.....it was like that already so could that have been the culprit the whole time? I know the intakes are some kind of polymer, how would I go about fixing those threads if the tech hadn't already? Also, in the future what is a good aftermarket coil?
 
Trail of Dead said:
Just out of curiosity, if the threads in the hole that the little gold bolt goes in feel stripped and the coil kinda wiggles a little could that have caused the coil to go bad? Whe I first noticed this problem I went to pull the coil off to check if they really did change plugs, I noticed that the bolt wasn't tight. At, least it wasnt' as tight as the rest of the coils.....it was like that already so could that have been the culprit the whole time? I know the intakes are some kind of polymer, how would I go about fixing those threads if the tech hadn't already? Also, in the future what is a good aftermarket coil?


see if the gold insert is spinning in the intake or if just the bolt is spinning inside the insert.

a quick fix if the bolt is spinning inside the insert is to pull out the bolt and get a cotter pin.. just a smaller one will work for this, just make sure it is long enough so it sticks out the top of the hole.

then you want to cut the cotter pin in half so your only using half of it, this makes it thinner. stick it in the hole and then stick the bolt in and slowly thread it in with the cotter pin peice in there.

If you do it right that should work,..
 
Does anyone know of anything I can use to make new threads on the Intake Manifold where the little gold bolts go that hold the coils down? Some sort of tube (like silicone is in a tube) type stuff that I can put in the hole and then put the bolt in and let dry, thus making new threads. SVT, I don't have any cotter pins around, so I used the metal from a bread tie (the little things that come on a loaf of bread), cut it in half and put the bolt in between the two and slowly tightened it. They are snug, but not as tight as the rest. I have two holes that are stripped. What was ford thinking using plastic threads? Why not just have metal inserts shaped like a nut and secured in the intake by a matching hole? Any suggestions within reason (i.e. I can't afford a new intake), by the way, the car runs AWESOME now!!!:nice:
 
Trail of Dead said:
What if I used some small wall anchors? I have a bunch of stuff that could probably be used as a suitable substitute.........lots of stuff


I don't think a wall anchor will work.. it has to be thin like half a cotter pin.. all you want it to do is take upa little bit of room on the side of the bolt and be made out of a somewhat soft metal that way it becomes part of the threads.
 
Ok, I found a few things that match your description: (2) Springs from an old Seymour Duncan Humbucking Pickup, (2) cheap key ring thingy's that a dealership puts their plastic thing on with their logo, and last but not least a gold in color metal clasp of somesort that you'd find on a backpack or a jacket......all of which somewhat thin metal matching the thickness of a small cotter pin that you suggested. Man, had I not quit building RC cars I'd have a crapload of cotter pins (for holding on the lexan bodies) laying around :bang:
 
Trail of Dead said:
Ok, I found a few things that match your description: (2) Springs from an old Seymour Duncan Humbucking Pickup, (2) cheap key ring thingy's that a dealership puts their plastic thing on with their logo, and last but not least a gold in color metal clasp of somesort that you'd find on a backpack or a jacket......all of which somewhat thin metal matching the thickness of a small cotter pin that you suggested. Man, had I not quit building RC cars I'd have a crapload of cotter pins (for holding on the lexan bodies) laying around :bang:


I think one of those things will work for you. just make sure it's thin like a cotter pin of medium size.
 
Just got done with the coils, it worked! Thanks SVT, the second one was a little stubborn but I went slow and eventually I got it good and snug. Now, I'm trying to find something I can use to replace one of those little plugs that hold the underside of the facia on.
 
Hi stangnet, well my car is fixed (knock on wood), it was the #5 COP. I noticed that they replaced another COP as well, but the code was for the #5. SVTTECH, I did as you had said and used a medium gauge steel and used it to secure the two coils that are stripped via the Intake Manifold. They are good and tight. Well thanks all for the input and if anyone has questions, ask and I'll do my best to give an answer.:SNSign: