Lengthening axle housing tubes? Is it possible?

Great68 · Dec 12, 2004

I have a line on a local 9" housing out of a Bronco for really cheap, but from what I understand they have a 58" length and my 68 Mustang has a 59.25" length.

Is it possible to lengthen the axle tubes, or would I have do something else to solve this dilemma. Your input please.

D.Hearne · Dec 12, 2004

Your assumtion that the Bronco rear is too narrow is wrong. That measurement is the axle to axle length, not the housing length. And it being 1.25" narrower isn't a problem, but a plus, it allows you to fit wider wheels and tires in the fender wells. You really wouldn't want to widen a rear anyway, it'd be easier to get a wider one and narrow it.

Great68 · Dec 12, 2004

D.Hearne said:
You really wouldn't want to widen a rear anyway, it'd be easier to get a wider one and narrow it.

I realize that, I just wanted to know if it would be a problem, and what I could do to correct it.

HistoricMustang · Dec 12, 2004

Hearne is infact correct. I narrowed mine to get 8 1/2" rims under the rear.

To answer your original question, never heard of that being done as people usually go the way of having one narrowed.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Ronstang · Dec 12, 2004

The only acceptable way to lengthen the axle tubes is to completely replace them. Currie or Moser can do this for you but the cost makes it better to find one the right size or as others have stated use the shorter length as a plus and get more tire under the car.

1320stang · Dec 13, 2004

You can shorten your axles. Check your spline engagement with your center section. When you remove your axles, you would find a lighter area on the end of the axle where it is engaged, and a darker "stained" area where it is not. Measure the stained area to the point where the splines start to taper. You have a difference of 1.25" now, which means shortening each side .625", but you should try to install before you modify them anyway. You can cut the ends of the axles off with a chop saw and re-taper the ends with a 4" grinder, do both slowly so-as not to take out the heat treat too much. Take a triangular file and clean up the ends of the splines where you've re-tapered and your done.

I'm taking it that you're converting from a 8" to a 9" and using your 8" 28 spline axles?

D.Hearne · Dec 13, 2004

1320stang said:
You can shorten your axles. Check your spline engagement with your center section. When you remove your axles, you would find a lighter area on the end of the axle where it is engaged, and a darker "stained" area where it is not. Measure the stained area to the point where the splines start to taper. You have a difference of 1.25" now, which means shortening each side .625", but you should try to install before you modify them anyway. You can cut the ends of the axles off with a chop saw and re-taper the ends with a 4" grinder, do both slowly so-as not to take out the heat treat too much. Take a triangular file and clean up the ends of the splines where you've re-tapered and your done.

I'm taking it that you're converting from a 8" to a 9" and using your 8" 28 spline axles?

Uh, Larry, he wanted to WIDEN it

Cbarton · Dec 13, 2004

No problem. When I recently reworked my rear, I upgraded to big bearing ends. They make and sell billet steel housing ends in big or small bearing configs. You trim them to fit the lenth desired. (they come extra long) cost aprox $80-100 for both sides as I recall.....

Chris Barton

ratio411 · Dec 13, 2004

I see bigger problems with that rear than .6" too short on each side.

That rear has a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern!
The spring pads must be relocated.
The shock mounts must be relocated.
The .6" narrower is a PLUS, it's all the other stuff that is a pain.
Seek out a Granada/Monarch 9", 57-59 Ford 9", or a 67-70 Mustang part...
That way all the angles, lengths, mounts, wheel patterns, etc... are the same.
Good luck
Dave

ratio411 · Dec 13, 2004

1320stang said:
You can shorten your axles. Check your spline engagement with your center section. When you remove your axles, you would find a lighter area on the end of the axle where it is engaged, and a darker "stained" area where it is not. Measure the stained area to the point where the splines start to taper. You have a difference of 1.25" now, which means shortening each side .625", but you should try to install before you modify them anyway. You can cut the ends of the axles off with a chop saw and re-taper the ends with a 4" grinder, do both slowly so-as not to take out the heat treat too much. Take a triangular file and clean up the ends of the splines where you've re-tapered and your done.

I'm taking it that you're converting from a 8" to a 9" and using your 8" 28 spline axles?

Duh...
I see.
He gets the housing...
Trims a hair off his axles...
Moves the mounts...
Done.

This is cool if the housing is small bearing.

D.Hearne · Dec 13, 2004

The axle's bolt pattern's not a problem if he were to buy new ones, the shock mounts just need to be removed, the Stang's are on the spring plates. as for the spring pads, they're the only things need to be moved. And if all that is a pain, I've got a 57-59 Ford 9" rear for sale in the classifieds.

67coupe351w · Dec 13, 2004

ratio411 said:
Duh...
I see.
He gets the housing...
Trims a hair off his axles...
Moves the mounts...
Done.

This is cool if the housing is small bearing.

Couldnt he just find a bearing in a bearing catalog that will fit the housing and Axle...or use the bearing out of the 9inch housing, the axle shaft should be the same diameter reguardless of the bolt pattern shouldnt it?

Or have the correct bolt batter put onto the axles. My friend had this done on his 65 pickup when he changed over from 6 lug to 5 lug.

Great68 · Dec 14, 2004

Hey guys, thanks for the replies.

I'm going to take a closer look at the unit in person tomorrow. It is enticing because the guy says it's got a 3.50:1 ratio and Trak-loc, complete from drum to drum for $300 (Cdn).

I think if I could just get the pumpkin out of it, that it would be a good deal. The biggest thing that worries me is that he says it is out of a 90 Bronco, when 90 Broncos didn't come with 9" rear ends!! It's possible that it was swapped in aftermarket, but I guess i'll just have to find out tomorrow!

As far as relocating the spring perches and shock mounts go, it's not a big deal because I have a friend will weld stuff for me for next to nothing.

1320stang · Dec 14, 2004

If its only 58" wide and out of a 90's Bronco, then it must be a Bronco II, but I even doubt that. The '66-'77 Broncos had the 58" wide rear ends. A full size '90 Bronco will have an 8.8 in it.

1320stang · Dec 14, 2004

ratio411 said:
Duh...
I see.
He gets the housing...
Trims a hair off his axles...
Moves the mounts...
Done.

This is cool if the housing is small bearing.

Right, and I believe the early Broncos had the small bearing housings, just the 5.5" bolt circle.

Larry

Lengthening axle housing tubes? Is it possible?

Great68

D.Hearne

New Member

Great68

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Ronstang

New Member

1320stang

D.Hearne

New Member

Cbarton

New Member

ratio411

ratio411

D.Hearne

New Member

67coupe351w

New Member

Great68

1320stang

1320stang

Similar threads

Lengthening axle housing tubes? Is it possible?

New Member

Active Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency