Lets talk about a clutch install:

[dec322]

My clutch is slipping so I'm looking into replacing it. I've been reading up on it and have come down to a few questions:

1. How hard is it to change a clutch (especially with just one person)? I'll have two jacks (one for the engine and one for the transmission) and I've done my share of automotive things in the past.

2. What all do I need to buy (steel retainer)? I'm going with the king cobra clutch and pressure plate and will resurface the flywheel.

3. Are there any writeups on a clutch change (besides my haynes manual)?



Before I change it I'm going to replace my clutch cable and fwa with the one from Maximum Motorsports. I have an adjustable cable and fwa but I wonder if its stretched. I've owned the car for 1 year and have been under it to adjust the cable at the clutch fork about 3 times. I just reread that whole post and saw that I never bought a lock nut. Maybe this will help before the new clutch.

 

[5spd GT]

Check the link in my sig., it should cover what you need, any question and just ask

You don't 'need' a new bearing retainer, unless it is broke or grooved...

I would just get a clutch cable from www.buyfordracing.com. It is not adjustable, which is what most like. Use your FWA to do the adjustment, not the cable too

I have a write-up as well, that is pretty detailed...and a checklist...

 

[cobradvm]

A clutch swap is basically unbolting a bunch of stuff, and then bolting it all back up again. One person can do it easily. Since it's your first time, give yourself a weekend to do it in. Some stuff can catch you unawares - my header to H pipe nuts were rusted solid - broke the stud getting them off, and had to drill the old one out, tap it for a new one and then replace it. Couldn't get the airtube off - ended up cutting to get the exhaust off. Starter bolts are tricky to get off until you figure out how to reach them - specifically the top one. Drain the tranny first otherwise you will take a bath in tranny fluid pulling the tranny. Once you have done it a couple of times, you can knock the job out pretty quick.

 

[86bluecobra]

I have done this job by myself a number of times. The key is getting the clutch lined up so that the input shaft of the tranny slides in. That and being able to bench press the tranny then hold and wiggle it with one hand while you try to thread a bolt with the other hand. Nothing to it.

 

[MustangOwner]

Your gonna need a pilot bearing, Steel fly wheel(Not aluminum because there for race applications), clutch, tool kit, and you CAN put in a clutch cable but most of the time it is not needed.

And as far as the KING COBRA!!!! i'd go with a Centerforce dual friction clutch, because they have off set weights so that its a stronger clutch but it pushes easy like your stock one. Where as the king cobra is a strong clutch as well, but it pushes very hard. I personally have a street car and don't want to have to push hard as hell to get the clutch in, just thought i'd give you something to think about!

 

[dec322]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Bluecobra, I don't think I'll put all my trust in your words of it being easy...you rebuilt your trac-lok. This is a job I've already deemed out of my hands. Easy for you must not be easy for me.



About the King Cobra: My clutch is already hard to push in. It was hard enough that I wondered if something was wrong but after researching it on here I found out it was ok. Also, how much is the centerforce clutch?


About the cable: The MM cable is nonadjustable and is built close to OEM specs. I've read alot of reviews stating it is the best thing out there. Then the adjustments should just be made on the hooks on the quadrant and the FWA.


5spd GT-- I'll check the link after work. If I run into any problems just expect to be getting a pm or two from me.

 

[jrichker]

Quick version of clutch R&R.

Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.

1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…

 

[5spd GT]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Bluecobra, I don't think I'll put all my trust in your words of it being easy...you rebuilt your trac-lok. This is a job I've already deemed out of my hands. Easy for you must not be easy for me.



About the King Cobra: My clutch is already hard to push in. It was hard enough that I wondered if something was wrong but after researching it on here I found out it was ok. Also, how much is the centerforce clutch?


About the cable: The MM cable is nonadjustable and is built close to OEM specs. I've read alot of reviews stating it is the best thing out there. Then the adjustments should just be made on the hooks on the quadrant and the FWA.


5spd GT-- I'll check the link after work. If I run into any problems just expect to be getting a pm or two from me.

As long as you got a non-adjustable cable your are golden

Your friends King Cobra may indeed be 'running' correctly, but an old/dirty clutch cable can make it easier and smoother to deal with. Back when I first started doing clutches, I changed the clutch out twice because the pedal was hard. I finally realized it was the cable the whole time. Who knows, maybe he could use a new cable, $40 from www.buyfordracing.com and a new clutch fork with it.

If you think the King Cobra is hard, try the HD version...

Oh, and you don't 'need' a pilot bushing either...but they are cheap and for a bit of time, you can replace it.

 

[dec322]

I just took the car to the mechanic to get the a/c converted to 134 from R12. While he did it they checked the clutch for me and informed me that I need a new one. Their price is $550 to install a stock clutch ($250 for parts). Its not bad but I think I'll just do it myself and save a couple of hundred.

Question:

As I've been reading I'm seeing different size clutch disks. I was under the impression that I've got a 10.5 but now I'm wondering if its true. My car was an auto but the guy before me converted it to a 5 speed. I think I have a T-5 but how can I tell? How can I tell if I've got 10.5 or 11.

 

[MustangOwner]

Its 10.5.... the earlier mustangs were 10. But its like 1986-1993 is 10.5 and 1979 -1985 were 10.

Thanks for the tips guys.
About the King Cobra: My clutch is already hard to push in. It was hard enough that I wondered if something was wrong but after researching it on here I found out it was ok. Also, how much is the centerforce clutch?

The centerforce dual friction clutch is like 299.99 for the clutch and pressure plate. Then you have to buy the Throw out bearing kit also. And a replacement flywheel too. But its a hell of a clutch.

 

[Strype]

Don't go at it alone unless you can wiggle a tranny around for a while by yourself trying to line it up... I'll never do it again unless forced to do so and I was helping a friend

 

[Darkwriter77]

Bah ... it ain't that heavy. I've dropped and reinstalled my T-5 on two occasions, and only had my buddy help during the reinstall on the second time because he happened to stop by right when I was finishing up (and he drank a bunch of my beer that weekend - "beer labor fee"). I'm just a scrawny, lazy little guy, so if I can handle it, most anyone should, too.

 

[wrenchbender]

I,m a 73 year old man & I bench press T-5,s in all the time.

 

[5spd GT]

I just took the car to the mechanic to get the a/c converted to 134 from R12. While he did it they checked the clutch for me and informed me that I need a new one. Their price is $550 to install a stock clutch ($250 for parts). Its not bad but I think I'll just do it myself and save a couple of hundred.

Question:

As I've been reading I'm seeing different size clutch disks. I was under the impression that I've got a 10.5 but now I'm wondering if its true. My car was an auto but the guy before me converted it to a 5 speed. I think I have a T-5 but how can I tell? How can I tell if I've got 10.5 or 11.

You will have a 10.4 or 10.5 inch clutch. Order that size...

Get the 10 spline clutch disc as well.

If you got the guys number, call him and ask him real quick what tranny he put in to confirm.

Check out my link in my sig.

How did the a/c shop check your clutch, they can't check it unless they remove the tranny/bellhousing/etc... They are just trying to get money off of you, that is way to much money. You can buy a 'stock clutch' for $150 with tool/throw out bearing.

You don't need a new flywheel, you can go to a machine shop and just tell them to 'resurface it' or 'turn it', and they may charge you $20-40...no bigge compared to a new flywheel....

 

[BYRDPE]

14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. Install the locator dowels at this time.

Nice write-up.
I have a few questions on the items above.
I did the swap a few years ago and my seal didn't need changing.
Now I need to replace the clutch so I might need to change the seal this time so what's the best way to remove and install the rear maiin seal?
I also didn't install the dowel pins....actually just got them.
Are there certain holes in the flywheel that they go in?
Anyone got any pics or links?
Thanks

 

[dec322]

You will have a 10.4 or 10.5 inch clutch. Order that size...

Get the 10 spline clutch disc as well.

If you got the guys number, call him and ask him real quick what tranny he put in to confirm.

Check out my link in my sig.

How did the a/c shop check your clutch, they can't check it unless they remove the tranny/bellhousing/etc... They are just trying to get money off of you, that is way to much money. You can buy a 'stock clutch' for $150 with tool/throw out bearing.

You don't need a new flywheel, you can go to a machine shop and just tell them to 'resurface it' or 'turn it', and they may charge you $20-40...no bigge compared to a new flywheel....

The a/c shop is actually the mechanic that I use for most anything I don't do. They kinda do it all. He "checked" it just by pushing the clutch in and adjusting the nut at the clutch fork. I called ford and got a price on a set and it would cost around $300...for stock. I called a few other places (napa and advanced) and their stuff runs around 130-200. I'd probably stick with the king cobra but I just read something about them "hypothetically" wearing out quick. I don't know.

I'll check your link soon. I forgot about it .

Oh yeah, the flywheel would only be resurfaced. I think it would only need to be replaced if I went with a centerforce clutch. Which I won't b/c I don't need something that expensive.

 

[Darkwriter77]

King Cobras wear out quickly? Since when? I've got 2+ years and over 24k miles on mine, so far...

 

[BYRDPE]

King Cobras wear out quickly? Since when? I've got 2+ years and over 24k miles on mine, so far...

How is the pedal feel compared to stock?

 

[5spd GT]

Nice write-up.
I have a few questions on the items above.
I did the swap a few years ago and my seal didn't need changing.
Now I need to replace the clutch so I might need to change the seal this time so what's the best way to remove and install the rear maiin seal?
I also didn't install the dowel pins....actually just got them.
Are there certain holes in the flywheel that they go in?
Anyone got any pics or links?
Thanks

Joe probably has more sound advice than I, but in my sig., in the write-up it has rear main removal and installation....

Yeah, there are three holes that the dowel pins go in. There is only 3 holes that have a 'stop' down in the hole. Take a look at the flywheel when you get it off and you will see 3 holes the same distance from each other in a triangle form. They have 'stops' half way down the hole and the other holes do not. You can use a small hammer and tap them into the stops...

The dowel pins are to align the pressure plate over the flywheel...

Good Luck

Edit: I had a stock clutch and a King Cobra, I would venture to say it is 20-25% stiffer, but my memory may be incorrect...if anyone else has more recently, post up...but the King Cobra is very 'stop and go'able"

 

[5spd GT]

The a/c shop is actually the mechanic that I use for most anything I don't do. They kinda do it all. He "checked" it just by pushing the clutch in and adjusting the nut at the clutch fork. I called ford and got a price on a set and it would cost around $300...for stock. I called a few other places (napa and advanced) and their stuff runs around 130-200. I'd probably stick with the king cobra but I just read something about them "hypothetically" wearing out quick. I don't know.

I'll check your link soon. I forgot about it .

Oh yeah, the flywheel would only be resurfaced. I think it would only need to be replaced if I went with a centerforce clutch. Which I won't b/c I don't need something that expensive.

Yeah I priced a Napa one (Valeo made, just like a Ford one), and it was around $150 total I believe...

King Cobra is made by FRPP (Ford Racing), very similar to OEM in my opinion, they will last quite a while as long as you do not overpower them

Oh, and you do not need a new flywheel with a Centerforce, just resurface it