Fox Lets Talk K-member

GroverDill

GoldMember

Founding Member

Aug 18, 1999

5,442

1,490

214

Demotte IN 46310

Oct 21, 2014

#21

• Oct 21, 2014

• #21

Reverse was not available when I got my kit. I am running 3/4" forward offset ( forgot the name) 18x9 255/45/18
You can see they are forward in this picture. I did have some minor rubbing so I made some home made fender spreaders.

 

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89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

1,456

542

144

Oct 21, 2014

#22

• Oct 21, 2014

• #22

Thanks! MM tech guy said had to for 1.5 and probably the 3/4. Tru Forge looks like? They sit real nice in the pic. So you thinking reverse then is best to start out with?

 

GroverDill

GoldMember

Founding Member

Aug 18, 1999

5,442

1,490

214

Demotte IN 46310

Oct 21, 2014

#23

• Oct 21, 2014

• #23

I would have bought them had they been available at the time. My car is just a toy and I will never see the improved handling offered by the longer wheelbase. Yeah they are true forged Victory wheels.

 

89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

1,456

542

144

Oct 22, 2014

#24

• Oct 22, 2014

• #24

Hoping you'd say that. Appreciate the help!

 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl

15 Year Member

Mar 4, 2003

4,014

1,698

203

Allentown, PA

Oct 22, 2014

#25

• Oct 22, 2014

• #25

I have the reverse offset arms for the same reason Grover mentioned. A street toy won't see the benefit of a longer wheelbase. I run 18x8 up front with 235 tires. I went more narrow so I didnt have to deal with rubbing. I don't have fender liners yet, but no rubbing to speak of now.

 

89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

1,456

542

144

Oct 22, 2014

#26

• Oct 22, 2014

• #26

I think Im gonna run Saleen SC 17/8 and 17/9 initially, I love the SC in chrome. I like the look of your Mach5s and how they sit Scott glad I get an idea of the reverse offset, Thanks!

 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

15 Year Member

Jul 3, 2009

5,129

1,666

204

Maryland

Oct 22, 2014

#27

• Oct 22, 2014

• #27

id go UPR... we just smashed the front end of the 3200lbs turbo car down from just about sitting on the rear bumper and the only thing that didnt survive was the CC plates. if it can take that kind of hit its good enough for street driving

 

Reactions: pearlnotchback, Sharad and hoopty5.0

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis

15 Year Member

Dec 14, 2010

7,775

6,932

214

SW Houston

Oct 22, 2014

#28

• Oct 22, 2014

• #28

I currently use and have had in the past UPR K members on street driven vehicles. I drive hard and have never had an issue. With the way K members in general are made now I doubt you'll ever have an issue with one short of running into a wall. It surely just comes down to brand preference, I'd bet you couldn't tell much of a difference in a 'blind taste test.'

 

Reactions: Sharad

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

11,606

8,859

214

In the garage

Oct 22, 2014

#29

• Oct 22, 2014

• #29

Full Disclosure- I do not run any UPR products on my cars nor will I ever do so. With that said- enjoy

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...lar-k-member-setup-issues-2005-79k-100-a.html

 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis

15 Year Member

Dec 14, 2010

7,775

6,932

214

SW Houston

Oct 22, 2014

#30

• Oct 22, 2014

• #30

I'm not going to take someone else's experiences over mine. I've never had an issue with them in all of my direct dealings and will continue to buy from them.

The company I ordered my e-fan controller from a week ago and have not heard a peep from is a different story, however.

 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

11,606

8,859

214

In the garage

Oct 22, 2014

#31

• Oct 22, 2014

• #31

hoopty5.0 said:

I'm not going to take someone else's experiences over mine. I've never had an issue with them in all of my direct dealings and will continue to buy from them.

The company I ordered my e-fan controller from a week ago and have not heard a peep from is a different story, however.

Click to expand...

Let me guess- Brian @DCC

 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis

15 Year Member

Dec 14, 2010

7,775

6,932

214

SW Houston

Oct 22, 2014

#32

• Oct 22, 2014

• #32

mikestang63 said:

Let me guess- Brian @DCC

Click to expand...

Nah, I risked it and went eGay for a Derale unit. If it's not on my doorstep when I get home, I will go HAM on the fools.

 

Reactions: 85rkyboby

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

8,016

1,613

194

NJ

Oct 22, 2014

#33

• Oct 22, 2014

• #33

Installing a K member can be expensive and time consuming.
In most cases here it just isn't worthwhile or necessary and is a total waste of time and money. Dropping 50 lbs or whatever it is, is certainly not a cost effective way of going faster at $700+. Imagine what that 700 bucks could buy for better engine parts.
Not saying don't ever do it, but you should be out of other more sensible mods first.

When it comes to a modular swap it makes sense. Clearance and making the engine just drop right in make your life alot easier.

There really is only is 1 company that is a sure bet for fit, quality and support that would be MM (not sure if griggs does swap k's but i trust them too).
The OP is probably spending 15 grand plus on this project.
Might as well economize with the best, you really don't want to install one more than once. So debating the rest of them is kinda a moot point.

 

Last edited: Oct 22, 2014

Reactions: 89oem