Let's talk Torsen and 8.8 . . .

[70vert]

(how's that for a spin on the old 8.8 rear end thread?)

Ok, I've currently been obsessing about rear ends nice aren't we all. Reason is that I'm soon going to be doing one of the Evolution Motorsports Watt's Links and I don't want to have that welded to my original 8" since it's just going to come off pretty soon anyway.

I've also decided based on research here and on corner-carvers that a torque biasing soft locker like the Torsen T2R would be more my style. A street car that can handle like a race car without being brutal and that may see the track eventually is what I'm after. tall order, I know.
The Torsen http://torsen.com/products/T-2R.htm dictates an 8.8 rear so that's where I'm going. My question (aside from starting a thread about Torsen and hoping for some more feedback from someone who has driven a T2R) is about rear end housing selection. Given that:

-I'll be putting Baer brakes on the back to match the front
-I'm hoping for something that can withstand 500hp just in case I ever get there
-I've got a '70

-Should I just build up a Fox 8.8 that is only very slightly wider?

-or just go with this bad boy in the same width: http://currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=1786
(the performance axles seem like a good investment here, and the custom width)

I'm not so worried that the Currie kit is expensive, just that I'm investing wisely in terms of strength and ease of installation . . .

Thanks :SNSign:

 

[70vert]

anyone? Bueller?

to add to the mix, I have 275s back there (and I'm dead set on my wheels) and couldn't go any wider without rolling the fenders a bit, as I plan to lower it. It would be good to have a slightly shorter axle, but it's hard to judge how much shorter - I could hit the inner wheelwell

Anyone know how much clearance one generally needs from the springs to also not hit the inside of the wheelwell?

 

[66Runt]

Won't need a lot of clearance with a Watts link

Once mounted you shouldn't get much more than 1/8" movement O.A.
I'm in the process right now of building a 8.8 from a '91 GT. If I was starting from scratch all over, I'd use a Ranger or Explorer rear, and have it narrowed. The tubes on my mustang rear end are 2.801" diameter. I will end up having some custom U-bolts fabricated when the V8 goes in. The only ones I could find are 7/16" diameter (fine for now with the 6 cylinder).

BTW: I picked up the Detroit TrueTrac. Exceptional biasing for something designed to go in a dump truck
You don't hear a lot about it...yet. I think as time goes by, and more of them hit the track, you'll start hearing some very good things on this carrier.
For $355.00 it's a darned good deal.

Good luck,

Scott

 

[70vert]

yeah, Explorer is great for 65-66 but off center for '67-up

If I was starting from scratch all over, I'd use a Ranger or Explorer rear, and have it narrowed. The tubes on my mustang rear end are 2.801" diameter. I will end up having some custom U-bolts fabricated when the V8 goes in. The only ones I could find are 7/16" diameter (fine for now with the 6 cylinder).

BTW: I picked up the Detroit TrueTrac. Exceptional biasing for something designed to go in a dump truck
You don't hear a lot about it...yet. I think as time goes by, and more of them hit the track, you'll start hearing some very good things on this carrier.
For $355.00 it's a darned good deal.

Good luck,

Scott

The Explorer rear sounds good for '65-66, but '67 and up you get an off-center pinion, which I'm not comfortable with.

Thanks. I had looked at the TrueTrac, but for some reason didn't realize it was gear-driven and torque biasing as well. Maybe it was the bolt breakage issues that scared me away. (they have largely solved this issue) The TrueTrac would probably be fine, and I might be being a perfectionist about it, but the higher torque bias (4:1 instead of TrueTrac 3:1) of the T2R sounds nice. Then again, rereading that Corner Carvers thread makes me think that the Black Gold ($750) (which lets you go 9") is the only durable one.

I'll have to read up on Black Golds and 9" rears now.

 

[Edbert]

Ok, I've currently been obsessing about rear ends nice aren't we all.

Well, quit thinking about rear ends View attachment 486041 and get back to thinking about differentials!

 

[66Runt]

You could always get a Currie built unit.

If you are concerned about the offset pinion. I have no experience with the T2R, but understand it is very nice.
You've got a tough decision, but for the money I'd take the rear end in Edbert's post...never mind, that looks too high maintenance for me

Guess I'm a little biased, but I really like the 8.8". You have to pay a little closer attention to detail when building them then say an 8" or 9". But IMO it's worth the extra care. They are quiet, small, and cheap. All said and done I'll have $1,100.00 complete with Superior axles, Truetrac, FRPP gears and girdle, Cobra 11.65" disc brakes, rebuild kit, spring perches and U-bolts (probably another $100.00 for the custom built 1/2" Ubolts down the road).
And even Edbert's rearend doesn't have a girdle

Good luck with whatever you decide. BTW: I'm out in Tracy if you want to see any of this.

Scott

 

[70vert]

I think that rear above needs a stud

and yeah, it looks like a high performance but high maintenance rear too.

I've actually changed gears in my thinking - I'm pretty sure I'll buy the rear from Currie (easy ordering, less frustrating variables to consider) and I'm leaning toward a Black Gold diff now in 9" and half-tight, with preload. They're like the Torsen but if one wheel gets off the ground, preload will keep it from being a totally open diff.

The extra money I spend on the Black Gold ($100 more) will be more than offset by the savings in going with a 9". Now I'm thinking more of this Track 9 from Currie:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/ProductsRE.aspx?id=1917

but could even go down from there. I have to go Baer to match the front on my brakes. Great setup you've got there, maybe I'll see you at one of the local shows one of these days . . .