lifter noise

I just picked up my new car last week :banana:
A little background info:
(see sig below)
The engine is a 347 c.i. stroker motor (FRPP M-6007-C347)with hydraulic roller camshaft and roller rocker arms.
The engine is carbed with a 750 Holley DP.
The only issue/concern that I have is what I believe to be lifter noise coming from the drivers side only. I understand that I should expect some valve train noise with this combo. It is odd to me that is only coming from one side:shrug: It is also kid of annoying. Almost sounds like it is low on oil.
The old sewing machine sound. It is probably not nearly as noticeable to others as it is to me. (you know how that goes!)
The Rocker arms have been inspected and tightened down to spec's.
I called FRPP and they suggested that I change my oil from a 20 W 50 that was recommended to a 10 W 30.. Due to the fact that I am in Indiana in a "cooler" climate. They believe that this lighter oil might help "pump up" the lifters that are causing the noise. I was instructed to call them back if this doesn't resolve the problem..
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
 
no marks on the insides of the rockers.
I am going to give it a couple of weeks and a few more break in miles before I consider replacing the lifters.
Is there any chance that a poor tune might have something to do with this?
The carb is set up really rich right now and the timing could also stand to be quite a bit more agressive..Just trying to be conservative during break-in.
I have the car scheduled to go into a local tuner with a dyno the 1st week of April.
Scott
 
10-30 is a better viscosity spread

I'd run the 10W-30. I personally prefer oil with less spread in the viscosity index, and 10 is good for the winter anyways. Any chance the "tick" is an exhaust leak?

Also, I prefer to run a good tune from start up, until death. Running rich washes the cylinder walls down and can cause scoring of the pistion skirts/cylinder walls, as well as premature ring wear. Running the timing retarded causes heat stress especially on the exhaust valves.
So, my suggestion would be to dial in the carb and timing, then take a wood dowl and use it like a stethescope to find out where that noise is coming from. If it's a lifter, it's not going to get better on it's own. No sense taking a chance on throwing a pushrod and screwing things up. Take it to a dealership and have them give it a look over. Such a beautiful car deserves a little "special attention".

Nice buy. Have a great summer!

Scott
 
steemin said:
I just picked up my new car last week :banana:
A little background info:
(see sig below)
The engine is a 347 c.i. stroker motor (FRPP M-6007-C347)with hydraulic roller camshaft and roller rocker arms.
Wow, and all this time I thought you already had it and were driving the shatz out of it. Off topic: what do you like the best about the car? The least? Just curious since it is one of the nicest 65's I have seen in a looong time.

Frank
 
try tightening down the exhaust bolts. an exhaust leak can make a ticking sound, and no amount of oil changes and lifters will change that! If you wait too long with an exhaust leak it will burn through the gasket and you will have to buy new ones, but tightening is free(and only takes a few minutes to do).
 
Tightened the rockers (1/2 turn) while the engine was not running.. engine was warm... used a BF'N rachet
to turn the crank to properly position rockers while tightening.
Is this the correct way to check / tighten the rockers?
 
steemin said:
Tightened the rockers (1/2 turn) while the engine was not running.. engine was warm... used a BF'N rachet
to turn the crank to properly position rockers while tightening.
Is this the correct way to check / tighten the rockers?
I do mine while each cylinder is at TDC on the firing stroke. then rotate the crank 1/4 turn till all 8 are done in the firing order. ( two full revolutions) I start with each loose then tighten till the pushrod has resistence, then 1/2 turn.
 
Thanks for all the responses..
I am going to take another look at the rockers.
I will let you know where I end up..

4MuscleMachines said:
Wow, and all this time I thought you already had it and were driving the shatz out of it. Off topic: what do you like the best about the car? The least? Just curious since it is one of the nicest 65's I have seen in a looong time.

Frank

Off topic:
Frank,
Thanks for the compliment...
It took a little longer than expected to tie up some of the details..
What do I like the most??
Appearance wise it is the paint scheme.
It is a little different..
The Urban Gray metallic with the Reflex silver stripes
(Volkswagon colors :crazy: )looks really good on this car IMHO.
Performance wise the exhaust note is pretty sweet..
FPA headers with the Magnaflow SS system. 2 1/2" with X pipe.
makes some beautiful music at high RPM's..
What do I like the least?
I really like the look of the Budnik wheels..
But I did not realize that I would have to take the wheels off the car to check tire pressure or to put air in the tires :eek:
There is a recessed female fitting on the inside of the wheel that I have to attach a valve stem to after I remove the wheel in order to check pressure or add air..It makes the wheels look great but is it really worth the hassle?
Scott
 
steemin said:
I really like the look of the Budnik wheels..
But I did not realize that I would have to take the wheels off the car to check tire pressure or to put air in the tires :eek:
There is a recessed female fitting on the inside of the wheel that I have to attach a valve stem to after I remove the wheel in order to check pressure or add air..It makes the wheels look great but is it really worth the hassle?
Scott

I'm glad you posted this information. I was really liking the look of your wheels and did not notice the lack of valve stems. However, the hassle of having to go to that much trouble to check air pressure or add air is certainly not worth it IMO. Are you sure there's not an easier way?
 
65up2d8 said:
I'm glad you posted this information. I was really liking the look of your wheels and did not notice the lack of valve stems. However, the hassle of having to go to that much trouble to check air pressure or add air is certainly not worth it IMO. Are you sure there's not an easier way?

Thanks..
I do get a lot of compliments on the wheels...
Yeah I really got caught with my pants down on this one.
When they send you the wheels they include a bag with a device to screw into the fitting so that you can put air in the tire.:bang:
I am lucky in that I have a lift in my garage, so I guess that the up side is that I can clean the wheels really good every time I check the tire pressure..
Scott
 
MitchGT said:
try tightening down the exhaust bolts. an exhaust leak can make a ticking sound, and no amount of oil changes and lifters will change that! If you wait too long with an exhaust leak it will burn through the gasket and you will have to buy new ones, but tightening is free(and only takes a few minutes to do).
This was my first thought too.