Well I went to go use my turn signal today and what do you know, didn't come on?? Flipped to see if the other worked. You already know :-/. Even tried my four ways to no avail. Then send I pulled into the Dining Facility to go get chow, this guy pulled up behind me and told me my brake lights weren't working either. So I went to the motor pool and started pulling fuses. Sure enough the one that blew was in charge of the turning signals. I replaced it and it worked fine......for awhile. About after 15 min of driving, I went to go use my turn signals again, and they weren't there. I pulled over, pulled the fuse and it was blown. Anyone ever had this problem and what can I do about it??
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- Thread starter jmhkas
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cjones
Founding Member
Bosko5.0
Active Member
Bosko5.0
Active Member
check under your dash around the clutch and brake pedal. there may be a wire that is rubbing one of the pedals and causing a short.
cjones:
I replaced the #9 fuse. The #1 fuse is just fine.
Bosko:
All wires are covered and I notice no contact with the pedals.
Thing is, as a temp fix, I just ran a wire in there. Now neither one will work at all. The boy at Advance Auto said it could be the switch. Either the turning signal switch or the brake pedal switch and then I also heard it could be that the flasher went bad. What do you guys think? I have the turning signal switch out now and I'm going to run to the dealer and see if they can test it. Hopefully that is the problem so I don't have to trace wiring. I think I'll give someone else the job before I do that though.
I replaced the #9 fuse. The #1 fuse is just fine.
Bosko:
All wires are covered and I notice no contact with the pedals.
Thing is, as a temp fix, I just ran a wire in there. Now neither one will work at all. The boy at Advance Auto said it could be the switch. Either the turning signal switch or the brake pedal switch and then I also heard it could be that the flasher went bad. What do you guys think? I have the turning signal switch out now and I'm going to run to the dealer and see if they can test it. Hopefully that is the problem so I don't have to trace wiring. I think I'll give someone else the job before I do that though.
Here is the wiring schematic for the problem I'm having. On here I have listed what is hot and when. It's suppose to be hot at all times, but it's only hot when I have the ignition on. My motor sgt. said that reason being is because electric is just being recycled. He says the problem is before the fuse box possibly. What do you guys think? What should I look at next?
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Bosko5.0
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go-stang5.0
New Member
Also inspect the bulb harnesses/sockets...Do they look at all burned or melted or damaged in any way. You may just need some new sockets for the bulbs.
Good stuff from everyone so far. 
I'd Turn on the turn signal and let it flash for a bit on that side. Then the other side. Then back and forth. If the fuse doesnt eventually blow, turn off the TS. Now press the brake for about 30 seconds. Then start pumping the pedal. See if the fuse blows.
The point is to isolate each system and try and get the fuse to blow so you can narrow it down.
I have the feeling it will be an issue on the brake light side of things.
Good luck.
I'd Turn on the turn signal and let it flash for a bit on that side. Then the other side. Then back and forth. If the fuse doesnt eventually blow, turn off the TS. Now press the brake for about 30 seconds. Then start pumping the pedal. See if the fuse blows.
The point is to isolate each system and try and get the fuse to blow so you can narrow it down.
I have the feeling it will be an issue on the brake light side of things.
Good luck.
So when you turn the ignition on, and all fuses are intact, you have no turn signals or brake lights? If this is so, I agree that you likely have an issue before the fusebox. Check the underhood fuses (I cant remember off the top of my head if there's one for this circuit).
If nothing looks weird, I'd do some testing with FUSED jumper power. If the circuits work fine with the donor power source, you know your feed is bad. Start chasing the short that way.
If nothing looks weird, I'd do some testing with FUSED jumper power. If the circuits work fine with the donor power source, you know your feed is bad. Start chasing the short that way.
I've never argued with anyone when I said that I sometimes have retarded moments. You have to have everything plugged in before you can start troubleshooting.
Now I'm just back to the original issue. No turn signals and no brake lights. I'm going to go pick up a relay and no switch for the turn signals. Hopefully one will solve my problem. thanks to all for trying to help a slow guy out.
Now I'm just back to the original issue. No turn signals and no brake lights. I'm going to go pick up a relay and no switch for the turn signals. Hopefully one will solve my problem. thanks to all for trying to help a slow guy out.
cjones
Founding Member
is the wiring diagram where you have power and not have power still correct?? or has it changed??
I'd get under the pedal assembly again, especially if you have a 5 speed.
Look waaay up there by the firewall, there's a harness up there that rubs on the pedal assembly. Lots of 94-95's started blowing that fuse once the harness had been rubbed through.
Another easy check (how I found it) was at night, looking at the pedal assembly with the key on and a new fresh fuse, was to lay and look at the harness while depressing the clutch and brake pedals, sure enough I was treated to a light show and the fuse subsequently popped.
Its a pain to patch the wires and recover/reloom them, but once its done you'll never have to worry about it again.
Look waaay up there by the firewall, there's a harness up there that rubs on the pedal assembly. Lots of 94-95's started blowing that fuse once the harness had been rubbed through.
Another easy check (how I found it) was at night, looking at the pedal assembly with the key on and a new fresh fuse, was to lay and look at the harness while depressing the clutch and brake pedals, sure enough I was treated to a light show and the fuse subsequently popped.
Its a pain to patch the wires and recover/reloom them, but once its done you'll never have to worry about it again.
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