Fox Lima 2.3L. Looking for Block casting number and General Information

8685Mustang

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Feb 23, 2019
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Kentucky
I just bought a 2.3L EFI the other day and I seem to have found the Casting number of the block as well as other numbers that may be important. The pictures do the justice but this is the best number i could come up with. (RF-F2ZE-A015-DC) some of the numbers might be wrong but from what I have researched the motor the Information is as follows:
E-1990, 2-1992, Z-Mustang, 5- Engine department. The time I've spent researching the Lima 2.3L engines I've found that 1983 was the start of weird era. 1980 was when the non turbo version was released for cobras and capri's. Then in 1983 the turbo version for the SVO was released. The gentleman that I bought the motor from said that the motor did not have a turbo and that he pulled it out of a 94 Mustang. I have a 1985 Mustang LX T-Top hatchback that I use as a daily and would like to get more gas milage. I also thought it would be neat to have a 2.3T. If so even possible (Fuel economy wise) to Turbo this motor with close to factory accessories that came stock with the 2.3L eco-boost. I would like to convert my factory 5 speed with a T56 if feasible. I have little to know clue about the LL23 Motor and would like to get any and all knowledge about it. Thanks.
 

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Turboford.org is your best source for 2.3L information.

The engine didn't come out of a 94 Mustang because the 2.3L was not ever in the SN95 body style. It appears to be a single plug head, so that would mean it is of the ~1985-1990 (I don't recall when the 2.3L first got fuel injection) Mustang or could also have been from a similar year Ford Ranger. If the head was a dual plug (8 plugs total) then it would be a 1991+ engine.

The Turbo block is essentially the same, with the exception that it has a provision for the oil drainback from the turbo. When converting non-turbo engines to turbo it is common to add the oil drainback into the top of the oil pan.

The main issue with the Normally Aspirated engines is that they have weak cast pistons with higher compression that really aren't suitable for a boosted application. The Turbo engines had forged pistons with lower compression.

From a fuel economy standpoint, the 2.3L Lima isn't all that great. It is an old engine design with roots from the 2.0L Pinto, and while it is generally reliable it is also generally pretty inefficient. The head design is lacking, and it's all iron construction makes it very heavy. While they can do "ok" in N/A configuration, the Turbo cars will suck down plenty of fuel if you have a heavy right foot.
 
Re-reading your post, I just want to be clear that this engine has NOTHING in common with 2.0L or 2.3L Duratec engines, nor their evolution 2.3L Ecoboost engines. Those are modern Dual Overhead Cam designs with all Aluminum construction. They are lightweight with good flowing heads, variable cam timing, the newer ones have direct injection, etc.

Swapping one of those into a Fox or SN95 has been done, but it requires significant fabrication. Look up Ecoboost Cobra on facebook to see a running example. You would need a control pack to run the engine much like is required for a Coyote swap.

It is a nice dream, but only to be done for the love of doing it. You won't ever get your money back in fuel savings.
 
The motor in my mustang now is a stock 302 carbed which is ok on gas. maybe 15mpg. Gas mileage isn't a huge concern but if feasible. i don't really know what to do with the motor, really what ever is best reliability wise. the 302 in my car now is slowly loosing life. i would think it would be cool for car shows or what not to have a 2.3 as well as use as a daily. maybe a turbo. id like to get something better than 15mpg though. i spend roughly 12 dollars a day driving to work and back. I was watching a video just a while ago and this guy put a B234F volvo head on the 2.3 motor maybe you could give me some insite with the pros and cons of doing so. here is the link. (youtube)

View: https://youtu.be/tvVY9z7-l0U


What do you think i should do with this motor?
 
I am going to rebuild this motor and id like to get good gas milege but if not then what kind of hp ratings could i go for?
turbo or non turbo. when i rebuild it and go the turbo route what are the things i have to make sure of. Internal components wise
dished pistons for sure. stroker kit? bore? i'm really kinda in the dark with this motor.
 
Again, Turboford.org is your friend and is pretty much dedicated to the 2.3L Lima. If you have a question, they have answered it.

As the owner of a 2.3L car with aspirations of doing something similar someday, I'll give you my opinion.

#1 - If you keep it N/A, forget about making any power. The main issue is the cylinder head - it is just poorly designed and doesn't flow a lot of air. You can port them, polish them, etc., but at the end of the day it will always be the choke point. Esslinger makes an aluminum head, but it is essentially just a copy of the iron head architecture, and it's honestly expensive as hell. You'll pay for that single head a bit more than you would pay for two aluminum heads for a 302.

Anyway, you'll probably top out around 170 flywheel horsepower in N/A trim with a heavily modded engine that wouldn't be all that street friendly.

#2 - As far as how much HP you can get... I don't know what the top level is right now, but north of 600 HP. With that being said, you wouldn't want to daily drive a 600 HP 2.3L because those are basically tuned for drag racing and are not street friendly. As far as I can tell, 350-400 HP seems to be a pretty strong street build that still has reasonable drivability. Picking the right Turbo for your application is really important, though, and I highly suggest reading up on finding the right one for your goals.

#3 - You also need to think about electronics. I wouldn't build a carbed turbo 2.3L, they are temperamental enough as a fuel injected car. If you have the wiring harness, the PiMP ECU is definitely the best bet in my opinion. There are tons of options for tuning, it self learns well, and there is no re-wiring required. Pretty much as plug and play as you can get for this type of project.

Stingerperformance is a good website to check out as mention above.
 
My 79 with a stock E-7 long block, Elelbrock Performer 4bbl intake, EGR spacer, Holley 600 CFM, Vac secondaries carb, headers, dual exhaust manual with overdrive, got 25 m p g highway and 20 ish in regular city driving. (The 79 block with a Comp Cams 268H cam and Rhodes lifters got about the same before it lost oil pressure at over 100k miles.) I was disappointed that my EFI 91 5.0 uses more fuel, but it is a beast. I do not know how many more mpg you will get with a 4 cylinder from the era.