"limited" brake upgrade

supafly

Founding Member

Jul 14, 2000

1,384

1

38

JC, KS

Oct 11, 2011

#1

• Oct 11, 2011

• #1

Forgive me if this exact issue has been covered, but when I looked through the many brake upgrade posts I did not see it. I have '91/stock 16" wheels on my ’88 vert. The brakes are the bare bones stockers, discs up front and drums in the rear. I want to continue running my Ponies, no desire to go with bigger wheels/5 lug swap (even though that makes upgrading brakes easier), I really like the sleeper look. I want to improve my stopping power as much as possible within the "stock parameters." Will the brake gurus please chime in and give me some direction on this? Basically I want to improve upon the front discs as much as possible and convert the rear drums to discs. Thanks guys.

 

7-UP BILL

Founding Member

Jan 4, 2001

885

19

49

My other car is a Firetruck

Oct 12, 2011

#2

• Oct 12, 2011

• #2

I did the front caliper upgrade to the 73mm calipers (Lincoln LSC) w/ Steeda metal bushings. Rear brakes are the FRPP 2300-K (87-88 T-bird turbo) brakes. Needs a rear prop valve and the front valve gutted. I also did the 93 Cobra booster. As cheap as you can get.

 

ID89GT

10 Year Member

May 26, 2008

1,659

18

49

Spokane Valley, WA

Oct 12, 2011

#3

• Oct 12, 2011

• #3

Turbo coupe or 93 cobra is really your only options for the rears. Unless there is some aftermarket stuff I don't know about which is possible, I don't look at 4 lug stuff lol

 

supafly

Founding Member

Jul 14, 2000

1,384

1

38

JC, KS

Oct 12, 2011

#4

• Oct 12, 2011

• #4

Thanks guys.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,222

17,908

224

Massachusetts

Oct 12, 2011

#5

• Oct 12, 2011

• #5

For the format, good rotors (no slots ot holes) and pads. Stainless lines, metal caliper sleeves and good fresh fluid.

The 73mm upgrade really requires a MC swap. Increasing the piston area of the caliper without an MC bore increase will give a slightly longer, softer stroke. You might find in panic stops the pedal is near the floor.

Out back, stainless center brake line, new shoes and pads.

Also, best upgrade you can do....good tires that don't lose traction under hard braking.

 

1993whtstang

Member

Aug 2, 2011

146

5

18

Massachusetts

Oct 12, 2011

#6

• Oct 12, 2011

• #6

Mustang5L5 said:

For the format, good rotors (no slots ot holes) and pads. Stainless lines, metal caliper sleeves and good fresh fluid.

The 73mm upgrade really requires a MC swap. Increasing the piston area of the caliper without an MC bore increase will give a slightly longer, softer stroke. You might find in panic stops the pedal is near the floor.

Out back, stainless center brake line, new shoes and pads.

Also, best upgrade you can do....good tires that don't lose traction under hard braking.

Click to expand...

Just wondering why no slotted or no crossdrilled holes in the rotors? Im gonna be upgrading my front discs and I was thinking of the drilled or slotted rotors.

 

88-378

Member

Aug 10, 2007

14

2

16

Alpharetta, GA

Oct 12, 2011

#7

• Oct 12, 2011

• #7

I have all the brakes you need. I just upgraded my Saleen to 13" bullit brakes front and rear. So, i have axles, rear setup and front setup with ebc greenstuff, brackets, spindles, master, etc... I may have pics in the swap and sell. Let me know what you need. I have to get this stuff out of my basement! I will make you a good deal!

 

aar0s

Founding Member

Dec 20, 1998

1,015

55

69

Oct 12, 2011

#8

• Oct 12, 2011

• #8

Take a look at the maximum motorsports brake upgrade package, braded lines+SS caliper sleeves+ decent pads = better stops. Not near what a four wheel disk will be but you could probably knock 10-15 ft off a 60-0 stop.
Brake Upgrade Packages : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,222

17,908

224

Massachusetts

Oct 12, 2011

#9

• Oct 12, 2011

• #9

1993whtstang said:

Just wondering why no slotted or no crossdrilled holes in the rotors? Im gonna be upgrading my front discs and I was thinking of the drilled or slotted rotors.

Click to expand...

Because it's not an upgrade.

Biggest enemy to braking is heat. The fox stock brakes aren't that great being a small diameter rotor and integrated hub/rotor design. They get hot and fade easily.

Crossdrilled rotors are for race pads that vent gases. These pads are not good for street cars.

Slotted rotors great for pads that dust like crazy. Helps wipe the face and keep the surface clean. Minor if any improvement.

What helps disappate heat is rotor mass. Woth puny rotors, you cant afford to loose mass to drilled holes or slots. By having more rotor mass, the heat is absorbed better.

In other words, race car brake technology designed for 13" and 14" rotors with huge calipers doesn't translate well to passenger cars with cast iron calipers and puny 10" rotors on a 3500 pound car.

 

R

reddevils86

Member

Apr 1, 2011

39

1

9

Oct 13, 2011

#10

• Oct 13, 2011

• #10

Another precaution with drilled is quality during autox sessions Ive talked with open track people and many caution because crossdrilled rotors have been prone to cracking. Again if you do choose crossdrilled just make sure you are going for quality and not just the bargain and also choose one or the other cross drilled or slotted both is not necessary and will hinder braking performance. Both on a street car will just wear in a weird way and make obnoxious noises

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

8,016

1,613

194

NJ

Oct 13, 2011

#11

• Oct 13, 2011

• #11

If you do like 5L5 suggested and use fresh pads and rotors with the brake sleeves in the front, then swap the rears to discs you should be good.

Understand this, for normal driving stock fox brakes work fine, it's repeated abuse that causes fade.
Even the rear drums are adequate under normal conditions, the reason i like rear discs is for the ease of maintainance, the looks, the fact that there is far less parts to break, and i like the idea that my emergency brake actually holds the car in place.

On a car i drove every day or very often, no way i'd be using slotted or drilled rotors.

Do not do the 73mm setup, it's a complete waste of time and money. For brakes to work better you need more rotor and pad contact, adding 10mm's to the piston doesn't add much. The reason cobra pbrs are so popular is because they are dual piston and spread the pressure out on a much greater surface area.

I also think you have the term "sleeper" confused with original or stock look.
First off, no fox is a sleeper, pretty much everyone expects foxes to be quick and modified.

 

supafly

Founding Member

Jul 14, 2000

1,384

1

38

JC, KS

Oct 13, 2011

#12

• Oct 13, 2011

• #12

2000xp8 said:

I also think you have the term "sleeper" confused with original or stock look.
First off, no fox is a sleeper, pretty much everyone expects foxes to be quick and modified.

Click to expand...

Good point.

Thanks for all the good info, guys.

 

88-378

Member

Aug 10, 2007

14

2

16

Alpharetta, GA

Oct 13, 2011

#13

• Oct 13, 2011

• #13

I have powerslot rotors and so far so good. My last set up worked very well too. all Saleen brakes are from a lincoln or SVO. (87-93)

I do think front lines and front pads make a difference. I can swear by EBC...
and get some braided stop flex for your lines...