There is not 1 factory Ford meter that is "cald" for any inj. The whole idea of a "cald" meter is 100% regarding aftermarket meters like C&L and Pro-M/PMAS.
The factory maf is setup to do one thing and one thing only...measure the air coming into the motor. It measures AIR not FUEL. The transfer above in 007's post is what they are programed into the eec with regarding the measure of air that meter reads in realation to air mass (were mass air gets its name) and volts. The volts (1-5v range) are the representation(sp?) of that air mass for the computer to digest.
Common plug and play aftermarket mafs offset the stock transfer by offsetting the volts the eec will "see". Pro-M/PMASS have there own electronics that offset the signal to make the eec think the stock inj. is still there but still be "close" to the factory eec fuel needs. C&L use a mechanical means to offset the signal by actually changing the air volume that the electronics "see" (the sample tube).
The high end aftermarket mafs function like the factory mafs...the the SCT mafs they have maf transfer curve you enter in and fine tune from.
Tuning via the maf transfer with the maf is going to offer the best results with least amount of drivability issues. The reason for this is our 94-95 eec is "load" based and that load is calculated from the maf readings. If you go too far one way or the other issues start popping up, off idle bucking, crapply idle, lean/rich at wot, idle surge, and others.
If your going to run a factory Ford maf from something else you will need tuning software or go to a tuner and have them setup the correct maf transfer for the maf your using. Just because the car had 24's does not mean the car will work with 24's and that maf hooked up.
If your not looking for a tuner/tuning software...stick with getting a pro-m/pmas IMHO. Or just get a cobra computer to swap out and keep your stock maf, your stock maf is not holding you back any either way.