long list of questions.....help!!!

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

937

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Napa, California

Nov 27, 2005

#1

• Nov 27, 2005

• #1

alright, here it goes. i just dropped my tranny tonight, and when i pulled it out i found somethign interesting. it was aluminum and the top plate said borg warner on it. also three of the four imput shaft bolts are stripped out. so here goes my list of questions, please if you have any advice add it, i can use all the help i can get.
1. Did Saleens come with borg/warner trannys?
2. How can i fix these stripped bolt holes??
3. how do i pull my rear main seal? ( i need to do this too)
4. how do i use the clutch alignment tool when i put my clutch back in? ( i know its dumb but ive never done it before)
5. when i put my mid pipe back in, should i put my catted x or off road H back in?.
again thanks for the help.

 

M

Mike92GT

Founding Member

Jan 23, 2002

583

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Florida

Nov 28, 2005

#2

• Nov 28, 2005

• #2

T5 transmissions were originally made by Borg Warner. My understanding was that they were taken over by Tremec a few years back.

I'm assuming you are refering to the bolts that hold on the input bearing retainer. Don't know if it can be done or not, but you could try and repair them with a heli-coil

The rear main will have to be pried out, being careful not to scratch the crank

When you put the clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel and start the PP bolts, you shuold still be able to move the clutch disc around. Insert the tool into the disc and pilot bearing to line it up. Then slowly tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly, while the tool is still in place. Once tight, remove the tool. Check the alignment by re-inserting the tool. It should slide freely though both the clutch disc and pilot bearing.

Exhaust is more personal preference, I think it will sound much better without the cats

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

Nov 28, 2005

#3

• Nov 28, 2005

• #3

I suggest you take the tranny to a transmission specialist and have them give it a once-over. The question I would have is WHY are the front bolts stripped out?

 

jrichker

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Nov 28, 2005

#4

• Nov 28, 2005

• #4

Being you are from Califorina, be sure to use a cat H pipe. They supposedly have roadside checks and getting caught is an expensive fine.

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

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Napa, California

Nov 28, 2005

#5

• Nov 28, 2005

• #5

im not sure why the front bolts were stripped, buti went to tighten them down when i saw they were loose and the were already stripped. the guy that had the car before me was a real jackoff. what is a heli coil?

 

M

Mike92GT

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Jan 23, 2002

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Florida

Nov 28, 2005

#6

• Nov 28, 2005

• #6

A heli-coil is a stainless steel threaded insert. Basically you drill and tap the stripped bolt hole to the next larger size with the tap that comes in the kit. Then you thread in the heli-coil with the supplied tool. You have to figure out what size/pitch thread the original bolts were, then buy the appropriate kit. I'm not sure if it will work for your particular application, but I have used them in the past and they work great.

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

937

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Napa, California

Nov 28, 2005

#7

• Nov 28, 2005

• #7

how much are they? and where can i get one?

 

M

Mike92GT

Founding Member

Jan 23, 2002

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Florida

Nov 28, 2005

#8

• Nov 28, 2005

• #8

I think the kit with 5-6 inserts runs about $20? Been a while since I bought one. You should be able to get it at most auto parts stores, try Napa if you have one

 

bdollarbill

Member

Nov 27, 2005

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Nov 28, 2005

#9

• Nov 28, 2005

• #9

Just take one of the stripped bolts with you if you are unsure of size they should have a thread gage to check it. The kits we sell @ work run about $40 but they are the helicoil industrial kits they come with the inserts,tap,drill bit , & installation tool.

Bill

 

J

JB66

New Member

Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Nov 28, 2005

#10

• Nov 28, 2005

• #10

Would it be stupid to suggest threading longer bolts through from the inside, spot welding them and using locking nuts on the outside to hold the retainer?

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

Nov 28, 2005

#11

• Nov 28, 2005

• #11

Spot welding the steel bolts to the aluminum tranny casing might prove a bit of a challenge....if I'm understanding things correctly.

And keep in mind my previous post jmd -- if you don't know WHY they're stripped - you may end up with a repair that simply has you right back in there fixing it again later. Or worse -- some catostrophic failure....

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

937

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Napa, California

Nov 28, 2005

#12

• Nov 28, 2005

• #12

how can i figure out why they stripped? it just looks like they got torqued down too hard. i heard that when dealing with aluminum im supposed to put anit seaze compound on the bolts, is this true?

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

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79

Charlotte, NC

Nov 29, 2005

#13

• Nov 29, 2005

• #13

I believe I suggested in my original post that I'd take it to a tranny specialist and let them have a look at it. If they were overtorqued by someone -- I'd sure like to know what they were doing inside the tranny -- if they didn't have the skill to keep from stripping the bolts, lord only knows what havoc they wreaked INSIDE the tranny.

What you use on threads in aluminum depends on the nature of how the threads are being used. For example -- spark plugs in an aluminum head. They need to be removed from time to time -- anti-seize is standard procedure there. Water pump bolts going into the front cover -- thread sealer to be sure there are no leaks is appropriate. I'd think those bolts going into the tranny casing would be more likely to require Loctite than anti-seize -- but that's just a guess on my part. Once the tranny is properly assembled -- you want to install it and just have it sit there and work for mile after mile, year after year.