I have been looking at buying BBK lond tube headers for somtime now. But I don't want to bring it into the shop to be installed. I'm just wondering if I would be able do install them myself and how to do it. I have all the tools I would need including a engine lift if i need to lift the engine. I have a 2005 Mustang GT, V8 with a 5 spd. Any help and advice would be great.
Long Tube Header Install Questions
- Thread starter ClayStang
- Start date
Emay
Member
You don't need to entirely lift the engine. I've been making a good dime on several of the local enthusiast out of my area simply because they don't want to tackle the job.
I'll give you the quick hitters:
Start with the drivers side, you do not need to take out the steering shaft like everyone says. If you remove the stock manifolds, support the motor, remove the motor mount bolt and raise it as high as you can then the header slides right in. Reinstall everything and bolt the motor back down. Then proceed to the passenger side.
Passenger side is a bit tougher, you can get the header in without removing the starter which everyone recommends. To make it easy on you the starter is the way to go, but it's faster to take the motor mount off the block, again raise the motor to the highest possible point and the header will go in with some creative angling. This will cut alot of wrench rage, because the starter is in a spot that leaves it's bolts invisible to line of sight.
I like to put a 1ft by 1ft piece of plywood on my jack that I raise the motor with. This distributes the weight and avoids denting the oil pan.
Doing it the way I mentioned I've got it down to about a 3.5 to 4hr job.
I'll give you the quick hitters:
Start with the drivers side, you do not need to take out the steering shaft like everyone says. If you remove the stock manifolds, support the motor, remove the motor mount bolt and raise it as high as you can then the header slides right in. Reinstall everything and bolt the motor back down. Then proceed to the passenger side.
Passenger side is a bit tougher, you can get the header in without removing the starter which everyone recommends. To make it easy on you the starter is the way to go, but it's faster to take the motor mount off the block, again raise the motor to the highest possible point and the header will go in with some creative angling. This will cut alot of wrench rage, because the starter is in a spot that leaves it's bolts invisible to line of sight.
I like to put a 1ft by 1ft piece of plywood on my jack that I raise the motor with. This distributes the weight and avoids denting the oil pan.
Doing it the way I mentioned I've got it down to about a 3.5 to 4hr job.
FR-S8N
Founding Member
local shop does it for about $250, and they have done it before on a couple of 2005+ gt's. Where are you getting the tune from?
How high can you lift the motor with only one side unbolted? And what about the O2 sensors?
Emay
Member
Sorry I was at the auto show all day and didn;t catch this earlier, I responded to your pm Clay, but wanted to also answer here in the event anyone else is following along.
I only remove 1 at a time, it's safer, and there is plenty of room for movement even with one connected. Not to mention, it also makes sure your not stuck trying to swing the motor around to bolt it back down.
07 boss, Motor will come far enough with only one unbolted that the bell housing on the trans will touch the tunnel. There's a significant amount of movement.
Not sure what you want to know about the 02 sensors, can you be more specific?
I only remove 1 at a time, it's safer, and there is plenty of room for movement even with one connected. Not to mention, it also makes sure your not stuck trying to swing the motor around to bolt it back down.
07 boss, Motor will come far enough with only one unbolted that the bell housing on the trans will touch the tunnel. There's a significant amount of movement.
Not sure what you want to know about the 02 sensors, can you be more specific?
I undestand that one of them is hard to reach. do you remove the exhuast manifold first and then unscrew the sensors? Miy headers and H-pipe have been sitting in my garage waiting patiently for me to tackle the job.
What are the best clamps to get for the slip fit connections? My H-pipe is not the best quality. It looks like I'm going to have to get a pipe expander for where the header goes into the mid pipe. And also, where the 2 sides come together to form the H, it fits quite loosly and I'm thinking of cutting a couple of 1/2 in slits in it to get it to compress down easier. Either way I'm worried about leaks in that area.
Oh, and what about locking header bolts?
Not so sure about the best slip-fit clamps, mine came with a set. If you don't already have some I would just buy whatever off of summit or jegs. As for the H crossover, mine came with a U-bolt clamp, the two ends fit fairly loosely and the clap is supposed pinch the two together, I have no leaks there. If push comes to shove you can take it to a muffler shop to get welded up.
Header bolts I would suggest getting a replacement set, as some of the stock bolts wont fit because the will run into one of the primaries. The flip side of that is you will not be able to get a ratchet onto most of the bolts (thus why I suggest the wrenches), so any bolt that requires a hex to fasten is probably not a good idea. I haven't had a bolt backout and cause a leak yet, but locking bolts aren't a bad idea and at $50 thats not bad insurance.
Dan
Header bolts I would suggest getting a replacement set, as some of the stock bolts wont fit because the will run into one of the primaries. The flip side of that is you will not be able to get a ratchet onto most of the bolts (thus why I suggest the wrenches), so any bolt that requires a hex to fasten is probably not a good idea. I haven't had a bolt backout and cause a leak yet, but locking bolts aren't a bad idea and at $50 thats not bad insurance.
Dan
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