Long tube problems

00Blackgtvert · May 23, 2005

i just got my car back today from getting long tubes and a catted h pipe installed and i have a few questions . Should the idle be a little rough when putting it into gear, by the way its an auto. Also its not really as loud as i expected is ther a reaosn for that ? thanks

kev1919 · May 23, 2005

you need the O/R h pipe if you want it louder

try2catchmy99 · May 23, 2005

youll find that some long tubes are quieter at idle but louder at WOT. And also yeah a O/R x or h will be louder as well

00Blackgtvert · May 23, 2005

how about the idle while putting it in gear will it even out once the computer re learns everything

jstreet0204 · May 23, 2005

The rough idle is normal. More so if the the headers are not coated. With the o2's further down stream they tend to cool off some more than when they were closer make the response rate slower. Give it a few days to see if it corrects itself. If it is bad enough it may eventually throw a code. There are two things that can correct it. One they can increase the pulse delay of the o2's with a tune, or two, you can try header wrap around the collectors to keep some of the heat in.

00Blackgtvert · May 23, 2005

thanks, hope it fixes itself

back_in_black · May 23, 2005

your car will sound best at wot, what catback do you have ?

ACSPONY · May 23, 2005

Disconnecting the battery for 10mins or so might help the pcm re-learn the system and smooth out the idle.

00Blackgtvert · May 23, 2005

i have the stock mufflers and tips, any suggestions on new mufflers or a new catback

Saleen201 · May 23, 2005

00Blackgtvert said:
i have the stock mufflers and tips, any suggestions on new mufflers or a new catback

I would get a catback, if you have LTs and get the O/R H or X and you want loud get the Magnapacks or SLP catback.

I LOVE the sound of the borla with LTs and O/R H but most people find it hard to pay the money for them.

2002BLGT · May 23, 2005

getting it tuned will clear it up ......

Tripoli · May 23, 2005

I've got the coated Hooker LTs, the matching off-road X-pipe and weld-in Flowmasters. Idle sounds very nice. Good, solid rumble. WOT is insane.

I've got MIL elimators, but the check engine light still comes on from time to time...typically after running the engine at high RPM, then shutting down. Typically happens when I drive crazy going home...then the light comes on the next morning. A little annoying.

Z28 KILR · May 23, 2005

Can't you use the MIL eliminators to fix this problem.

csledd · May 23, 2005

With my LTs the computer never relearned anything and threw a code about 6 days after installation, and the idle will jump a couple hundred rpms at idle. I'm just going to tune my o2 sensors out, that's the best way to go about it.

jstreet0204 · May 24, 2005

christiesledd said:
I'm just going to tune my o2 sensors out, that's the best way to go about it.

The only way to do that is to make it run in open loop all the time. You only want to do that in extreme circumstance, not for a street car. You can have the rear o2's turned off but that won't fix the problem only stop the MIL from tripping for low cat effenciency. Try either header wrap or having a tune done to allow for a longer delay on the front o2 readings. You should also check for any exhaust leaks, since air entering the exhuast will throw off the o2 reading.

csledd · May 24, 2005

my headers are creamic coated, no way I'm putting header wrap on them. I made a post on here and was told that they never retune the o2 sensors, they just tune them off

jstreet0204 · May 24, 2005

christiesledd said:
my headers are creamic coated, no way I'm putting header wrap on them. I made a post on here and was told that they never retune the o2 sensors, they just tune them off

They turn off the rear o2's not the front. Rear o2's are not used for anything other than testing cat effenciency. Front o2's however are used in closed loop to tell the eec how much to adjust fuel trims. With long tubes they have a tendency to cool off and slow down the response rate. This can be adjusted for in a tune. BUT since your headers are coated this shouldn't be ase much of an issue. I would look at other possible causes for the bad idle. Like IAC or vacuum or exhaust leaks.

csledd · May 24, 2005

Woundn't it be more noticeable if it were an exhaust leak? I mean the only problem is at idle, I figured driving around I would notice a difference also. I mean in lower RPMS my car turtles around cuz there's not much backpressure. HMMMM. I'll try to check for leaks tomorrow.

Roxstang · May 24, 2005

00Blackgtvert said:
thanks, hope it fixes itself

MIL eliminators...

jstreet0204 · May 24, 2005

christiesledd said:
Woundn't it be more noticeable if it were an exhaust leak? I mean the only problem is at idle, I figured driving around I would notice a difference also. I mean in lower RPMS my car turtles around cuz there's not much backpressure. HMMMM. I'll try to check for leaks tomorrow.

Even a small leak can cause issues, more so at idle because there is less flow. There was a guy on here a while back that posted a pretty good trick to check for leaks. take a couple of smoke bombs and throw them into the tailpipes. Then stuff rags in the pipes. I haven't tried it but it sounds like it might work.

Long tube problems

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