Lookin at adding subframe connectors.

DARCA

New Member
Nov 19, 2008
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Tacoma, WA
Ok, so I have been driving my stang for about 3 months and I'd love to start making some changes now. I have read a lot of the technical threads and am seeing the pattern of subframe connectors being the place to start. So I have been browsing 50resto and was wondering if these would do the trick and if they are bolt on... as it doesn't say in the description. I have no access to a welder.

Thanks,
Brad

79-93 SUBFRAME CONNECTOR, TUBULAR, W/O CROSSBRACE. MUSTANG
 
Bolt on subframe connectors really aren't any good. They'll help for a short time, but the holes end up getting elongated and you may end up worse off than when you started. Check out American Muscle for some subframe connectors. They have the Maximum Motorsports full-length for $10 more and if you shoot a PM to AMNick, he'll send you back a discount code, so they'll be even cheaper (I think 10% off). Have a muffler shop weld them in if you have to. Just make sure they have a drive-on lift that supports the car by the tires, so the suspension stays loaded.
 
I jsut had my MM subframes taken out for a set of through the floor pieces, here is something to think about.

I paid like $175 back in the day for my MM pieces plus like 200 bucks to have them installed. so theres $375.

My through the floor subframes were $400 installed and stiffen the chassis up leaps and bounds over the other ones. If you have someone that does chassis work near you, i'd suggest going that route(if you have a good chassis guy local to you), alot of the subframes on the market do next to nothing, and for what it cost me, i have subframes that are actually structurally part of my floor pan, alot of the weld in ones are even just a bandaid for the weak floors of these cars.

Tube Chassis Designz <--- this is who i used, it was about a two hour tow for me, but definitly worth it
 
when it comes to suspension/chassis parts you definitly get what you pay for...

x2 you do get what you pay for.I had the blueovals before nothing to brag about.Go with the Steeda full length and be done.If you want something a little different go with some Wolfe or Team Z I think TRZ has some too or Behind bars race cars.Remember with every part you buy YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!.

And for further reference stay away from cheap headers ie FLOWTECH (is garbage).
Good luck buddy,and with these cars don't go cheap.Half the guys on here won't even tell you how much they put into their cars.

Kevin
 

those look o.k.

Ya,Darca get them welded.No reason to do them otherwise.If you are planning a cage in the future get the Through floor SFC'ers so it gives you a place land the main hoop,and door bars if you plan on a 10pt cage like I did you can even land the other (over window through dash bars as well).If you located around Chicago Ill weld ya up for free.:nice:

Kevin