Looking at a 76/77 Mustang II

chaka

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Mar 1, 2002

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Boston, MA

Feb 8, 2004

#1

• Feb 8, 2004

• #1

Not sure which year. Think it is a 77.

What are some of the negative things I should look at before I buy it and what do you think is a good asking price?

I am unsure of the mechanical state, but as long as the tranny is good I am cool. (have a carbed 2.3 turbo in need of a good home).
The paint is decent with what looks like some major rust on the driver's door along the bottom. Interior is unbelievable for a car of its age.
What engines and trannies were available for those years? It is an auto but I was unable to take a look under the hood. Has a clean title. Guy is suppose to get back to me in two days.

Thanks in advance.

 

Wart

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

Founding Member

Sep 1, 1998

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NE Ohio

Feb 8, 2004

#2

• Feb 8, 2004

• #2

Bump

 

7

77sleeper

GO BUCS!

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Oct 11, 1999

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Napalm, AZ

Feb 9, 2004

#3

• Feb 9, 2004

• #3

well the down side is parts availiability and peoples attitudes

engines are 2.3L 4, 2.8L 6, 5.0L 8
trannys are C-3 (4s & some 6s) C-4 (some 6s, 8s) and Rad/4 (all)

 

chaka

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Mar 1, 2002

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Boston, MA

Feb 9, 2004

#4

• Feb 9, 2004

• #4

77sleeper said:

well the down side is parts availiability and peoples attitudes

Click to expand...

Will deal with parts as I need them. American vehicles are always more forgiving when you need to find parts.

Well they can kiss it if they don't like. I have always like the II. I think I have seen one or two in my lifetime drving around. I have heard they are one of the best handling mustang stock. Is this true? They have the upper and lower a-arms, correct? similar to Saabs.


What is the Rad/4? never heard of it.

If I feel the price is right I will post some pics.

 

D

dmoody

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Nov 4, 2002

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Winston-Salem, NC

Feb 9, 2004

#5

• Feb 9, 2004

• #5

The RAD4 is the manual transmission that came in the II. They aren't very strong, so many of us have put in a T-5. However if you are putting it behind a 2.3, you shouldn't have any trouble out of it.

d

 

N

Northern J II

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Jul 25, 2003

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Belwood Ontario Canada

Feb 9, 2004

#6

• Feb 9, 2004

• #6

I would check for rust. Check the front inner fenders where the fenders bolt on. Check where the front sub frame attachs to the uni-body. Check the quarter panels and floors. If the rear looks low, it will likely need new rear springs. Trim parts are expensive and hard to find, so It would be nice if they were in good shape.

 

1970impala

Please God, somebody find me some WHITE CARGO PANE

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Jan 22, 2002

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Pennsylvania

Feb 9, 2004

#7

• Feb 9, 2004

• #7

Northern J II said:

I would check for rust. Check the front inner fenders where the fenders bolt on. Check where the front sub frame attachs to the uni-body. Check the quarter panels and floors. If the rear looks low, it will likely need new rear springs. Trim parts are expensive and hard to find, so It would be nice if they were in good shape.

Click to expand...

I agree here. be sure to check for rust underneath. when i bought mine from pictures, i demanded to see pics of the undercarriage, everything else to me was secondary.

 

chaka

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Mar 1, 2002

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Boston, MA

Feb 9, 2004

#8

• Feb 9, 2004

• #8

Well spoke to the owner today. It was donated and is a one owner car with less then 100,000 miles. Has a V6 with auto. Says the rust is only along the drivers door bottom and has not spread. The floor and rocker panels are supposedly good. IMO the rear was not sagging. Besides the rust the on the driver's door the car had no other blemishes. The interior is nice looking with minor wear and tear.

He is asking for $1000. I am going to take a closer look at it on Friday. If the rust is minimal is this a good price?

With the V6 crossmember will I be able to mount the 2.3 turbo or a 5.0?

 

78CobraII

Moderator

Jul 31, 1998

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Birmingham, AL

Feb 9, 2004

#9

• Feb 9, 2004

• #9

There is usually rust around the battery tray even on a well-maintained Mustang II. As long as it hasn't rusted through the inner fender or all the way down to the framerail. The MII has about the same rust problems as any early Mustang. Unfortunately the MII battery box is not a bolt-in, so its about the only place worse than the early Stangs.

The suspension crossmember is the same for all engines. The difference is the engine stands and the engine mounts. The stands are a bolt-in item. You should be able to find them cheap for a 2.3L. Front springs for a V6 with AC and auto should be fine for a 2.3L. I would be looking for a T-5 and bell from a Fox 2.3L though. Unless you are doing pure drag racing, its more fun to drive a 2.3L with a manual trans. You'll need a MII clutch pedal and cable though...

 

chaka

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Mar 1, 2002

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Boston, MA

Feb 9, 2004

#10

• Feb 9, 2004

• #10

Thanks for all the replies. Tomorrow I am going to swing by and take some quick shots. The owner will not be there but I will post them and find out if you guys think it is worth it.