looking for a cheap mod that increases power for my next track visit

Wayne S · Nov 25, 2004

DerekStangGT said:
ok, maybe i should clarify: my last track visit i DID take out my stereo equipment, spare, jack, and pass seat. and i cant do UD pullies b/c i have a full audio system so it would sap too much power from my alt. actually a TA would work. anyone have recommendations for a cheap place to get a TA? also, w/o using a dyno to tune, how would i know how many degrees to advance?
EDIT: and i dont want slicks or DRs b/c i dont have the $$ to replace my axles

Drs will not kill your axles if you know/use them wisely......Were mine help is on the 1-2 shift so I don’t spin...

If you’re on a strict budget I would not do a mod that you will be replacing down the line. Your car with practice is faster then what you are pulling now.

If your car is a stick I say,,,,,pullies I like ASP,,,,,Or a shifter if you don’t already have one. If you like your sound system just leave the stock ALT pulley on...the power to gain is the crank and water pump pulley anyway.

IMO....Make a plan/list of what you want to do to your car,, Or set a goal for the year and List out mods needed to meet that goal. Then buy the mods you can afford at the time.

damacman · Nov 25, 2004

Steeda Tri Ax or Pro 5.0 < $200
Powershifting = free

Wayne S · Nov 25, 2004

damacman said:
Steeda Tri Ax or Pro 5.0 < $200
Powershifting = free

Im not to fand of the Tri ax I personaLy dont like the way it shifts, The pro 5.0 is a nice peice but for a daily driver etc I would get the hurst. I have a Hurst and think its a great shifter.

damacman · Nov 26, 2004

Steeda Tri Ax or Pro 5.0 or Hurst < $200
Powershifting = free

damacman · Nov 26, 2004

Race weight 3012 - how?

Wayne S · Nov 26, 2004

damacman said:
Race weight 3012 - how?

Bought a pLain jane deluxe model and pulled 408Lbs off it

Basicly Ive been pulling the car apart ever since ive owned it,I Love working on cars and if I have nothing to do I pull my stang apart. If I didnt need a part,it got taking off and set a side. I knew what I wanted to do/plan even before I bought my car.

Any aftermarket part I put on, I made sure it was light.

myponyrocks · Nov 26, 2004

I think as long as you have a cap you'll be fine. I had charging issues with my stock pullies and got the cap, installed the steedas and no issues in 10k+ miles. I dont use my A/C much, but I'm using the headlights and heater blower all winter long, so far no dimming or anything even with 14 blocks of light to light and no good RPM for charge for over 20 min a trip

2000GTnoExtras · Nov 26, 2004

spikeGT_99 said:
if u want to port the plenum all u need is a dremmel, and i believe its pretty safe but,i havent seen a really good step by step for the porting process so i havent had the guts to do it myself. u can also port the tb at the same time, the ford tb is actually 70mm on the intake side, u port the exhaust side from 65 to 70 and put a new butterfly in, u can get a k&n filter, trim the heat shield, and buy a roush/c&l inlet tube for 50+ bucks and along with porting the plenum u got a whole new intake, but im just too lazy to do it

Sounds like quite a hassle to port the TB and get a new butterfly. What roush/c&l inlet tube for $50? Are you talking about the TruFlow Inlet Pipe? It's $150 from C&L http://www.cnlperformance.com/inlet.html probably even more from Roush.

::EDIT:: I think I found that piece from Roush, $55.00 http://www.roushparts.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SM01-8105-A Ya think that really does anything? Switch out my stock rubber for harder plastic i guess.

And whole new intake? What about the lower?

twogts4us · Nov 26, 2004

crew_dawg16 said:
you should be safe with the pulleys.

Take your dremel and cut the stock airbox so that all that's left it the part that holds the filter with the clamp and the bracket that holds it to the fender. You will have an open filter and with a removed passenger headlight, will give you a nice cold air charge.

Rather than destroy the OEM airbox, remove it completely and make a spacer donut out of plastic or even cardboard is fine (it's just a spacer!). Then you can eliminate the OEM airbox and, using the OEM clamp with the spacer (in between the MAF and the air filter, it will securely hold the air filter. I did it, it's easy. Then, as stated, pop your headlight out - 2 slide clamps and 2 connectors...out in 1 minute.

drummer · Nov 26, 2004

ForPointSex said:
Pull out the passenger headlight and remove the silencer. Should give you the .1 your looking for.

I just cut my silencer so that there is a nice 3 inch cut that goes about 6 inches.

DerekStangGT · Nov 27, 2004

ok guys, so i ordered a steeda TA from ebay-$130 shipped. not too bad IMHO. hopefully it will be here in 2 weeks. also, i just did a search for install directions but couldnt find any anyone know a good writeup or have any tips for install? thanks

looking for a cheap mod that increases power for my next track visit

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