Looking For Recommendation For OEM Style Clutch


New Member
Feb 10, 2020
Revere, MA

Time to do the clutch on my 98 GT convertible. It's a daily driver. I'm from Boston, and two summers ago I drove it from her to Orlando, FL with zero issues. It's all stock except for CAI and Flowmasters. I'm definitely not looking for an aggressive or heavy clutch. I'm not street racing or going to the strip.
I put together a pretty comprehensive list of parts. I questioned when it came to the flywheel and clutch. If all I want is an OEM style clutch, should I be paying $500.00 for those two things? Any recommendations for OEM type? Does Motorsport make one or just heavy duty? Finally, does anyone see anything I neglected in this list that I'd want to replace? The car has about 130,000 on it.


34008 - RAM Billet Steel Flywheel; 6 Bolt (96-98 GT; Late 01-10 GT)
Item #: 34008
50116 - Ford Performance Roller Pilot Bearing (96-17 GT; 07-12 GT500)
Item #: 50116
399720 - RAM Premium OEM Replacement Organic Clutch Kit; 10 Spline (86-95 5.0L)
Item #: 399720
394002 - McLeod Clutch Fork (94-04 All)
Item #: 394002
387099 - Ford Clutch Fork Pivot Stud for T5, T45 or TR3650 Transmissions (79-04 All, Excluding 03-04 Cobra)
Item #: 387099
383852 - Ford Rear Main Seal (96-10 4.6L)
Item #: 383852
383875 - Ford T-45 Input Shaft Seal (96-01 All)
Item #: 383875
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Active Member
Jun 17, 2018
A couple of thoughts, without knowing the condition of your existing equipment. You may be able to have your existing flywheel resurfaced saving some $$s. The clutch fork and pivot, while insurance, may not need to be replaced either. Consider adding a new clutch cable to this job unless it has been recently replaced. When removing the pressure plate and flywheel, consider going back with new bolts (not necessarily a requirement)...blue or red loctite. The clutch you've selected looks as good as any...however, you might check locally for a rebuilder or rebuilt units at a cost savings. Cheers.


Jan 14, 2019
Aptos, CA
I don't think you'll need the seals unless you have some leaks going on. I also agree with the ball and fork delete unless there is considerable wear on those items. One thing I would do is make sure THAT clutch you selected fits your setup. Another thing to have is a input (pilot bearing) removal tool. i.e. slide hammer with puller, etc. Those are a bit..h to remove without one.


Active Member
Jul 24, 2018
Albany, NY
Please correct me if I'm wrong folks, but I'd also think a new throw out bearing should be installed if you're doing all this work and will have it apart


The first widely accepted Tranny
15 Year Member
Dec 24, 2003
30 Mins from a Ragged GT
If you are just looking to go OEM on these parts and are just looking for a Daily Driver and nothing more.

  1. Autozone Duralast / Clutch Part #:NU31175 $160 ish (clutch, pilot bearing, thowout bearing, pressure plate, alignment tool)
  2. Autozone Pioneer / Clutch Fork Part #:CF-155 $66 ish
  3. Autozone FEL-PRO / Rear Main Seals Part #:BS40620 $26 ish
  4. American Racing - Ford Clutch Fork Pivot Stud
  5. American Racing - Ford T-45 Input Shaft Seal
  6. Transmission Shop - Flywheel, just resurface it for a Daily Driver (as stated above $100 ish for labor)
If you looking to "refresh" and you are going to have it all apart anyways, I would do all you suggested in the original post. But I would get most of it locally from AutoZone or another Parts place because they will stock a quality part for a Daily. I just re did my Clutch and went through AM for my parts, It went bad, long story, but in the end I have the AZ Duralast Clutch kit in it now and I am perfectly happy.

If you were looking for performance, then AM all the way because I trust them and LMR for all of my needs. BUT why pay the prices for parts your not going to use their full potential. OEM in my Shop means Duralast or Parts Master. I hope that these part numbers get you closer to where you need to be.
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