Loose steering powersteering

There are actually a couple of different issues here. I'm not an expert on this but I'll take a shot and then some of the steering experts can tell us the parts I missed/messed up (watch one, do one, teach one).

First, I've been led to believe that when the engine is off the power steering is going to have some play both at the wheel and at the ball that goes into the valve. The power steering system depends on the ball shaft moving within it's seat in the valve in order to variably direct the flow of the pressurized fluid and expand or contract the ram cylinder. When the car is off the ball stud still moves and may seem to move more because if the car were running the valve and steering linkage would move with it (I don't know about this last part).

My steering wheel moves about as much as the one in the video. Previous threads here have stated that some movement is to be expected, but I'd love to see one of the expert posters chime in on whether that sort of play at the steering wheel is correct. Likewise for the ball stud.

Also, in the video there is certainly a problem with the stud that mounts the ram cylinder to the centerlink.

Second, there are likely a couple of additional parts you'll want to replace in this process. A number of people have lamented not replacing the seats/seals where the hoses connect. The issue is that the don't reseal nicely and then you have a leak. Stanger's site has some nice write ups on the system and the other steps you might want to take. You can buy rebuild kits from him or Dan a/k/a Chockostang. Dan has been more active here of late and may well chime in.

Third, depending on how severe your steering problems are, you may need the steering gear itself rebuilt. Don't bother with the in-car adjustment and don't give much credence to anyone who says they can just tighten it up with a turn of the wrench or by adding grease. If you run a search you'll find this covered in some other threads.

Finally, no matter whether you need to mess with the steering gear or not, do not use a "pickle fork" to separate the ball stud from the pitman arm. The blow from the hammer can hurt parts in both the valve and the gear. You can borrow a proper tie rod end separator from an auto parts store that will do the trick nicely.

First, I've been led to believe that when the engine is off the power steering is going to have some play both at the wheel and at the ball that goes into the valve. The power steering system depends on the ball shaft moving within it's seat in the valve in order to variably direct the flow of the pressurized fluid and expand or contract the ram cylinder. When the car is off the ball stud still moves and may seem to move more because if the car were running the valve and steering linkage would move with it (I don't know about this last part).
Absolutely correct, in detail. I've run across professional mechanics who didn't understand this.

My steering wheel moves about as much as the one in the video. Previous threads here have stated that some movement is to be expected, but I'd love to see one of the expert posters chime in on whether that sort of play at the steering wheel is correct. Likewise for the ball stud.
Engine running, there should no perceptable movement of the stud.

Also, in the video there is certainly a problem with the stud that mounts the ram cylinder to the centerlink.
There should be zero movement there.

Second, there are likely a couple of additional parts you'll want to replace in this process. A number of people have lamented not replacing the seats/seals where the hoses connect. The issue is that the don't reseal nicely and then you have a leak. Stanger's site has some nice write ups on the system and the other steps you might want to take. You can buy rebuild kits from him or Dan a/k/a Chockostang. Dan has been more active here of late and may well chime in.
A complete parts kit is a must. No point in ripping into it if you're only doing part of the job.

Third, depending on how severe your steering problems are, you may need the steering gear itself rebuilt. Don't bother with the in-car adjustment and don't give much credence to anyone who says they can just tighten it up with a turn of the wrench or by adding grease. If you run a search you'll find this covered in some other threads.
Yeah, the "tighten it up a little" method is a good way to destroy the box.

Finally, no matter whether you need to mess with the steering gear or not, do not use a "pickle fork" to separate the ball stud from the pitman arm. The blow from the hammer can hurt parts in both the valve and the gear. You can borrow a proper tie rod end separator from an auto parts store that will do the trick nicely.
Yep. If you use a 'fork' on the ball stud or cylinder, you may as well throw them in the trash.

Only thing I can state with any degree of certainty your system is worn out.

Now to replace the control valve, find the cylinder is also bad, tear apart, replace cylinder, now the ports leak from the old hoses not matching the new seats, replace hoses, now the impressions from the old hoses in new seats---Start over do it again.

Replace as a system, not by pieces.

Now the wandering is caused by many causes I can't even begin to list. The Movement in the ball stud is a must, even when running, still a must, but not as viewable (Hard to see detect). The Ball stud HAS TO Move to slid the spool in the bore of the control to "Direct Traffic" of the fluid to both side of the cylinder even running.

Hydraulics is Hydraulics in a Mustang, or our John Deere Farm Tractor.

Dan @ Chockostang

chockostang said:

Replace as a system, not by pieces.

Click to expand...

I'm glad you brought this up, Dan. I've been moving toward the conclusion that this is the best approach for a while. I've spent a lot of time and money chasing problems around my steering system, and there has always been another component to blame or suspect. This uncertainty is further compounded by having bought parts from all over and having work done by both myself and otherwise reputable shops that think you can tighten the box.

At present, my steering is tolerable but not to my satisfaction. When I tackle the problem, I'll likely do it wholesale (with perhaps the exception of the pump) because chasing a cascading problem is a PITA and I'd rather be able to hold one party responsible for the components working together.

I know that may not be feasible cost-wise, but I have not had good luck with the piecemeal strategy.

One last thing: if you are having an issue with wandering, as Dan references, one culprit that you may not think to look for is a bent center-link. I have no idea how common this is, but that turned out to be a big part of my problems.

I just recently replaced the slave cylinder, pump, hoses, control valve, everything and the system works great. I was able to locate a rebuilt control valve at oreilly for 215 dollars with core charge. I wish I had taken all that money and put into the borgenson upgrade. Less parts to wear out and it will eliminate your leaks indefinately. And for the cost of fixing all of your problems there you could nearly do the borgenson swap. If you arent familiar with what I am talking about, google it, its about a $900 job if you do it yourself. Lots of folks like this better than the rack and pinion swap because you get to keep a good tight turning radius. Anyway, something to think about.

This is a bit of a thread resurrection, but I didn't think there was a need to start a new one.

I finally replaced the box (thanks Chockostang!) and had the control valve rebuilt. I should have done this years ago instead of still costly nibbling at the edges and being unhappy with the way my car drove.

I haven't driven a mustang with R&P or the Borgeson box, so I cannot compare. However, it turns out that a properly rebuilt power steering system is more than good enough for my purposes. I'm delighted.

Also, dealing with Dan and company was great (not really a surprise).