Lots of Pics. calling all 5.0 experts. Engine rebuild. Need HELP

[filburn]

Hey guys, I bought a modified mustang and I got ripped off pretty badly. I thought I bought a 94 mustang saleen with a 351W in it with lots of mods.





Looks nice right??

I assure you it is a Piece of crap. It’s covered in rust underneath the car and has a bunch of problems other problems (electrical, suspension, exc.).

I got a coolant leak and had to take the lower intake manifold off and guess what. the engine has 302 stamped in big old letters on it . He claimed that it had a bunch of other things that is doest have, such as 42lb injectors when it has 36lb injectors and aftermarket A-arms when they are stock . So I don’t trust the guy as far as I can throw him. The car came with Nitrous hooked up to it. Obviously I don’t want to blow up the engine, so I need to know what is in the engine. I went out and bought the equipment to remove the engine and pulled it out. This is the first engine I have taken apart, So I’m going to need A LOT of help identifying the parts and putting the engine back together.

Crank -






The numbers I could get of the crank are: 434C, 3c234cc54cc, PAE 3337 and 5014034. He claimed that it is a "eagle" stroker crank. I went to the eaglerod.com and it was no help. It does look like a stroker crank though, because the walls where piston travels has been notched to give the rod bolt clearance. he claimed it has 393 CID. Also, what is that ring that I pulled out of the center of the crank in photo 1 and 2. It looks like it shouldn’t be there.

Pistons -




On the piston It has a "Probe LW40" in big letters and has a 15302 and 58312A scribed on the back. Again I went to the Probe website and it was no help. the Rods all have different numbers stamped on them 1 was: F22 F22 F23, another was 516 414 117. anyone know what those numbers mean? The rod bolts have Eagle 1.6 8740 APR. Obviously they are APR bolts made for Eagle, but what is the 1.60 and 8740?



You’re looking inside the intake port of the head. Is the Valve supposed to have that white build up on it? is that common?



These are the underside of the heads. I know they are aluminum TFS heads. Are they supposed to look like that? The engine was installed about 7k miles ago. I know the car runs rich because It needs a dyno tune.


This is the engine taken out. I took out 4 head bolts to get the engine out. I didn’t want to bolt the hoist leveler to the lower manifold because it is bolted to the aluminum heads. The head bolts at least bolt directly to the block. how do you guys who have aluminum heads get your engine out??

I guess that’s enough for now. Ill post more once I get a couple replies.

Thanks a lot,
Filburn

 

[Mike92GT]

I used a EFI lift plate to pull my engine, it's a steel plate that bolts directly to the lower intake, and has lifting points built in.

It actually looks like your engine has some pretty decent parts in it. I see that the bottom end has a main support on it. It is most likely a 347 stroker, or maybe a 331. Maybe Rick91GT can help you with some of those part #'s.

As for the Probe LW40 on the piston, it should stand for "Light Weight" And the 40 should mean that the motor has been bored .040 oversize.

The ring on the back of your crank looks like what's left of your pilot bearing. There should be little needle bearings in there, but it looks like yours are missing.

 

[vristang]

Was there a large amount of oil in the intake runners when you removed that?

This could be the source of all the oil in the combustion chambers.
Often the stock pcv system can't keep up with mods like that.

It's too bad that people will knowingly deceive others, or sell something they know nothing about.

Good luck

jason

 

[filburn]

I checked and, Yah i think i am missing the pilot bearing. Here is some more pics.









You can see on the shaft that I have a little wear building up. It looks like there wasnt any bearing installed?!

Anyhow, What do you guys suggest I do? Think I can just put one in? Im concerned that the bearing will sit in there loose because of the wearing. If the bearing fits snug I should be ok right?

Also, have a favorite bearing that you use. I would like high performance bearings if they offer them.

Anyone else out there have any idea on the parts above please let me know.

Filburn

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

Those valves look pretty whit, to me thats a sure sign of too lean, most likely from the nitrous.

 

[filburn]

actually I havent used the nitrous. I wanted to be sure it was set up for it before using it. Why would going lean cause the valve's to look white? is it something to do with the heat?

also, anyone know anything else about those part numbers??

 

[PoopDawg]

There is a LOT of oil in those cylinders and combustion chamber... You def. have a huge problem there.

 

[Mike92GT]

I checked and, Yah i think i am missing the pilot bearing. Here is some more pics.

You can see on the shaft that I have a little wear building up. It looks like there wasnt any bearing installed?!

Anyhow, What do you guys suggest I do? Think I can just put one in? Im concerned that the bearing will sit in there loose because of the wearing. If the bearing fits snug I should be ok right?

Also, have a favorite bearing that you use. I would like high performance bearings if they offer them.

Stick with the Ford pilot bearing, part # M-7600-A. You will need to remove whats left of the old bearing using a slide hammer or some sort of puller. Then you just tap the new one in place using a large socket

 

[Mike92GT]

Hard to tell by the pic, but hopefully that input shaft isn't too rough, or it will just chew up the new bearing

 

[troyGT03]

the white on the exhaust valves is not necessarily a lean condition. a nitrous fed engine will get that color deposits on the valve from using speed shop nitrous(sulphur added so you wont get happy and inhale it). medical grade nitrous works better.

 

[Aaron]

Hey - are you from Western NY? I noticed the sticker "P and J Speed Shop" in your engine compartment. Are you familiar with them? If you're not, they are located on Niagara Falls Blvd north of Buffalo. You may wanna call them with a description of the car and a VIN - they may have done a lot of work on it. You may get lucky and get some valuable information about the car.

 

[Redrooster]

Its got forged h-beam rods in it too if you did not already know that.
I just looked at the picture of the pistons. Some thing is bad wrong for you to have that much oil in the cylinders. Did it smoke like a train? What kind of pcv/ evacuation system do you have on the car?