Lots of Pics. calling all 5.0 experts. Engine rebuild. Need HELP

Hey guys, I bought a modified mustang and I got ripped off pretty badly. I thought I bought a 94 mustang saleen with a 351W in it with lots of mods.





Looks nice right??

I assure you it is a Piece of crap. It’s covered in rust underneath the car and has a bunch of problems other problems (electrical, suspension, exc.).

I got a coolant leak and had to take the lower intake manifold off and guess what. the engine has 302 stamped in big old letters on it . He claimed that it had a bunch of other things that is doest have, such as 42lb injectors when it has 36lb injectors and aftermarket A-arms when they are stock . So I don’t trust the guy as far as I can throw him. The car came with Nitrous hooked up to it. Obviously I don’t want to blow up the engine, so I need to know what is in the engine. I went out and bought the equipment to remove the engine and pulled it out. This is the first engine I have taken apart, So I’m going to need A LOT of help identifying the parts and putting the engine back together.

Crank -

The numbers I could get of the crank are: 434C, 3c234cc54cc, PAE 3337 and 5014034. He claimed that it is a "eagle" stroker crank. I went to the eaglerod.com and it was no help. It does look like a stroker crank though, because the walls where piston travels has been notched to give the rod bolt clearance. he claimed it has 393 CID. Also, what is that ring that I pulled out of the center of the crank in photo 1 and 2. It looks like it shouldn’t be there.

Pistons -

On the piston It has a "Probe LW40" in big letters and has a 15302 and 58312A scribed on the back. Again I went to the Probe website and it was no help. the Rods all have different numbers stamped on them 1 was: F22 F22 F23, another was 516 414 117. anyone know what those numbers mean? The rod bolts have Eagle 1.6 8740 APR. Obviously they are APR bolts made for Eagle, but what is the 1.60 and 8740?

You’re looking inside the intake port of the head. Is the Valve supposed to have that white build up on it? is that common?

These are the underside of the heads. I know they are aluminum TFS heads. Are they supposed to look like that? The engine was installed about 7k miles ago. I know the car runs rich because It needs a dyno tune.

This is the engine taken out. I took out 4 head bolts to get the engine out. I didn’t want to bolt the hoist leveler to the lower manifold because it is bolted to the aluminum heads. The head bolts at least bolt directly to the block. how do you guys who have aluminum heads get your engine out??

I guess that’s enough for now. Ill post more once I get a couple replies.

Thanks a lot,
Filburn

I checked and, Yah i think i am missing the pilot bearing. Here is some more pics.









You can see on the shaft that I have a little wear building up. It looks like there wasnt any bearing installed?!

Anyhow, What do you guys suggest I do? Think I can just put one in? Im concerned that the bearing will sit in there loose because of the wearing. If the bearing fits snug I should be ok right?

Also, have a favorite bearing that you use. I would like high performance bearings if they offer them.

Anyone else out there have any idea on the parts above please let me know.

Filburn

actually I havent used the nitrous. I wanted to be sure it was set up for it before using it. Why would going lean cause the valve's to look white? is it something to do with the heat?

also, anyone know anything else about those part numbers??