CManT1914
New Member
We use starter fluid all the time at work, and never have any problems. Hell, the other day another mechanic was keeping the car running with starter fluid due to their being water in the fuel lines (which he had disconnected).
low mpg.....once again
- Thread starter Mustangless
- Start date
Chris, where you gotta really watch the starter fluid (aside from the fact that it is hard on the motor) is on carbed stuff, or if you have the air inlet hose off (like a SD car). A backfire can come back on you and light that stuff off. Watch it on your bike too. That is where I worry about it - having some sort of open flame front coming through the area that is being sprayed.
How bad would the front end being out of alignment hurt the gas mileage? Before my new wheels it pulled very bad to the right. The passenger side front wheel had no weight on it and the drivers side front tire was worn on the inside.
I know that would not be part of the low rpms but I thought i would ask.
I know that would not be part of the low rpms but I thought i would ask.
Today, it went dead on me. The rpms started going down, and just kept going.
I have half a tank and 75 miles. That averages about 10mpg. I know that is not the exact way to check, but that is usually right.
I have half a tank and 75 miles. That averages about 10mpg. I know that is not the exact way to check, but that is usually right.
Zero Signal
Active Member
Well I was getting terrible gas mileage for awhile before I tore the motor apart. I found this last weekend that I had TWO completely shot motor mounts and the engine was sitting sideways in the bay!!! I don't know how I didn't notice it but I'm starting to wonder if it was binding the hell out of the drivetrain and killing my mileage. Anyway, just a crazy idea I thought I would throw out there.
Checked my tps voltage, it was at 1.05. Now it is at .99 but I still have the problem.
When the car is warm and is put in reverse, then the wheel is turned the rpms, and voltage will drop. It will die every now and then when that is done. Once the battery light flashed
When the car is warm and is put in reverse, then the wheel is turned the rpms, and voltage will drop. It will die every now and then when that is done. Once the battery light flashed
larrendeuce
Member
Mustangless said:
Your alternator might be going bad, remove it and take it to a autozone(or other parts place) they test for free so you'll know if its going. That would definately give decreased performance and economy. The most important thing to do is diagnose the problem. Throwing parts at it can cause more problems so be careful. If it does not correct the problem its possible that the new parts could another problem.
larrendeuce said:
I was thinking either that or the p/s, because it is making noises too. Maybe I can get that checked out soon.
When I first got my car there was a pulley in the trunk. Well yesterday I replaced the idler pulley. The one that was on the car was noise. Like the bearings were out in it. After replacing it the car was trying to go dead, but it did not. Maybe this will fix the problem.
larrendeuce
Member
Mustangless said:When I first got my car there was a pulley in the trunk. Well yesterday I replaced the idler pulley. The one that was on the car was noise. Like the bearings were out in it. After replacing it the car was trying to go dead, but it did not. Maybe this will fix the problem.
What do you mean? The car was stalling?
larrendeuce said:
Yea, after the car got warm. For example the first time it happened after I backed up and put it in drive it stalled. Then I could start the car, let it run till it got warm, put it in reverse and turn the wheel. It stalled 2 out of the 4-6 times I did that.
If the RPM's dont drop a huge amount when you turn the wheel, I would just raise the idle setting.
If you are seeing a large drop in the idle when turning the wheel, there is another unnatural parasitic issue.
Good luck.
If you are seeing a large drop in the idle when turning the wheel, there is another unnatural parasitic issue.
Good luck.
Went to the track yesterday and had a few problems. When waiting in line while in park the car died once. The battery light came on, I guess this is normal after stalling? The rpms would go between 500-800 every now and then, it also went up to 1200 once.
Since the maf was cleaned again, the iac was cleaned and the idle pully was replaced my mpg might have gotten better.
I know this is no the best way to check it but....
from full tank to 3/4 I got 55 miles
from 3/4 to 1/2 tank I went 20 more miles
After this I did all the above work
from 1/2 to 1/4 tank I went 39+ more miles
From 1/2 to 1/4 tank was at the track too. I won't really know if it is fixed to I fill it up again. But it looks like it might have gotten better. The stalling and rpms makes me uncertain though.
Since the maf was cleaned again, the iac was cleaned and the idle pully was replaced my mpg might have gotten better.
I know this is no the best way to check it but....
from full tank to 3/4 I got 55 miles
from 3/4 to 1/2 tank I went 20 more miles
After this I did all the above work
from 1/2 to 1/4 tank I went 39+ more miles
From 1/2 to 1/4 tank was at the track too. I won't really know if it is fixed to I fill it up again. But it looks like it might have gotten better. The stalling and rpms makes me uncertain though.
filled the car up last week and had 12.4mpg. Drive in 44 miles and im between 3/4 and 1/2. I hate to say this, but I am getting sick of this car
I have done about all the cheaper things
o2s
cleaned maf
injector cleaner
air filter
fuel filter
timing
cleaned throttle body
gutted cats
new converter (helped perfomance though)
plugs
wires
cap and rotor
there is probably more I have done but I can't think of them. It almost seems if I am driving it hard, it gets better mpg. What is recomned I try next? Maf?
I have done about all the cheaper thingso2s
cleaned maf
injector cleaner
air filter
fuel filter
timing
cleaned throttle body
gutted cats
new converter (helped perfomance though)
plugs
wires
cap and rotor
there is probably more I have done but I can't think of them. It almost seems if I am driving it hard, it gets better mpg. What is recomned I try next? Maf?
Zero Signal
Active Member
Maybe you actually have a fuel leak somewhere Perhaps a stuck injector or leaky hose connection (but that you would smell). I would pay a mechanic to do a full engine diagnostic on the computer to see what they come up with. Hell, that would be a good thing to have Ford do. They could at least tell you what's wrong.
Perhaps a stuck injector or leaky hose connection (but that you would smell). I would pay a mechanic to do a full engine diagnostic on the computer to see what they come up with. Hell, that would be a good thing to have Ford do. They could at least tell you what's wrong.
Zero Signal said:Maybe you actually have a fuel leak somewhere
I was just thinking about taking it to Ford, I didnt want it to come down to that though.
deadlast
New Member
i have pretty bad milage too. car sometimes smells like gas from the rear, and especially right after i fill up. i suspect a leak somewhere, but how can i go about testing it? i dont see any droppings in my parking spots... sorry to hijack. also, whats it cost to have a compression test?
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
If i got a tweecer r/t would that help me solve this problem?
I want one, just need a good reason to buy it
I want one, just need a good reason to buy it
Also, how can I tell if my IAC is bad?
I suspect it a little because of my idle problems. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but, it seems like when i go easy on the car it gets worse mpg.
I have cleaned my IAC
I suspect it a little because of my idle problems. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but, it seems like when i go easy on the car it gets worse mpg.
I have cleaned my IAC
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