Lower Ball Joint Issues

hobbes80

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2002
410
0
17
Northern Virginia
So the front end of my '02 GT has been popping when hard over for a while. Based on some threads on here, a quick visual inspection with the wheels off, and general time working on cars, I figured the tie-rod end and ball joint probably needed to be replaced.

So I took it to a shop because I don't have a press and didn't want to go through the pain of replacing the ball joints myself. They called me today to tell me that the lower control arm on the passenger side needed to be replaced as well. As a normal skeptical person, I asked to see the arm before they did any more work. So I drove down and took a look.

This is what the arm looked like where it connects to the car... which isn't great, but could be worse...
IMAG0306.jpg


This is how easy it is to put the ball joint in (Video still processing... may be a few minutes. Cliff Notes is that you can just drop it in):
YouTube - Lower Ball Joint Loose

While it is a 2002, I only have 50k miles on it, I've lightly auto crossed it twice, and otherwise drive it mostly gently. I back it into my garage, which is an awkward bump on the way up the drive way as I back up (but not THAT awkward). I did curb the passenger side pretty hard once in a parking garage, but the weird issues I had existed before this problem.

The suspension mods I have done are pretty basic: Upgraded front sway bar, urethane bushings (end links), Saleen springs/struts (motorcraft, basically), and went to 17x9 rims running a 275/40 front tire... overall drop on the front is about 1.25"

The basic question is: are there any other components that could have caused this that I need to b e concerned about replacing? Could this damage be caused by a ginormous pothole?
 
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the control arm doesn't look damaged to me. if anything, you need new bushings. installing the ball joints shouldn't be too hard, i have a pair gathering dust but i don't have the press or a pickle fork to do the install
 
The bushings can be replaced as long as the holes are still true and the arm isn't bent or cracked or otherwise shows any signs of fatigue or damage.

That ball joint being that loose is a problem though. They shouldn't just fall out like that, it should take a LOT of force with a special tool to press them in.

Ford considered the a-arm a wear item and wanted you to replace it as a whole unit with ball joints and bushings. Too bad they hung us SN95ers out to dry when they stopped making replacement arms last year (although it looks like LMR has them again, maybe).

There may be oversized ball joints to fit your wallered out a-arm. Or you can get some out of the junkyard in better shape to rebuild.
 
Ford considered the a-arm a wear item and wanted you to replace it as a whole unit with ball joints and bushings. Too bad they hung us SN95ers out to dry when they stopped making replacement arms last year (although it looks like LMR has them again, maybe).
My Mechanic was able to find a replacement for me for $200 with the ball joint already pressed in, so I went with that and I'll return my steedas...

I've seen tubular control arms on the Brother's website, though they require coilovers... if I find myself in this position in a few years I may want to consider going the coilover route just to make the swap easier. Shame that the opening is so messed up with only 50k on the arms. I'm sure the fact I curbed the hell out of that side is the reason why.

I like the Urethane arm bushings... I think I'll do those next time around though, this trip to the shop will be more than I wanted to spend as it is.