lower control arm bolts

shawnster

New Member
May 17, 2003
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Akron, Ohio
I'm installing another 8.8 rear end in my 88gt (it has 3:73's in it, the rearend in my car now has 2:73's) I only paid $200.00 for it and that a lot cheaper then installing gears ($700.00) I'm having problems with getting the lower control arm bolts off..I wd40ed the crap out of them and all they do is spin..I tried to hit them with a big hammer and they will not come out!!! If I sawzall them off, will I be able to get the piece of the bolt out of the bushing and what kind of bolts should I use..I figured I would have this done by tomorrow but the way its looking, thats not going to happen..any suggestions will be highly appreciated!!
 
I just installed my control arms last week so I know exactly what you are talking about. The problem is with the bolt... It has actually coroded / rusted itself to the bushing. I tried beating the hell out of it with a big ass hammer for an hour & got nowhere. Your best bet is an air hammer. ( if you don't have it, rent one ) After I got the air going, it was a matter of miniutes & those stupid bolts came right out! Good luck! :nice:
 
That is what I plan on doing, cutting them. I will try a grinder as besides a drill is all I have to do the job. Cut the head off then use a pin to knock them out. Find the lengths and get them. Someone who knows more than me might have a more definitave answer but I know structural bolts are strong,even structural stainless (never rust). I do not know prices as I plan on getting them from work but they are available. they are stamped on the head sometimes with triangle or something. Someone who sells bolts would know more about the markings. Good luck I know it is a bit of a PITA, but it is worth it. With th grinder you can grind the head right off, takes time, makes lots of sparks, but will work. Yes I know about the gas tank but I will be outside with lots of air there are not many built up fumes there.
 
I've had my fair share of nasty lower control arm bolts. Pounding on them will basicly get you nowhere...unless they aren't that bad. Your best bet(if no access to an air hammer, even then this still helps) is to turn the bolt while prying/beating it out. An extra set of hands helps a lot.

By the way, the last 8.8 i removed for a guy a couple weeks ago(he put in a turbo coupe rear).... i gave him $40 for it. :D
 
DONT AIR HAMMER THEM.. that will cause problems.. what I did, is grab a ****ty ratchet, and an extension, and stick the extenstion in the hole, and hammer the ratchet til the bolt came out.. with a hefty amount of WD40.. It works, did it last night on my control arms.



Luke
 
I dont have access to an air hammer so I guess I will keep trying to beat it out..It probably wont work because it seems the bolt has become one with the bushing..my other option is to go up to summit and see if they have lower control arms and bolts and if they do, I will sawzall the control arms off and install new ones..i really dont want to do that, but I'm running out of ideas
 
shawnster said:
I dont have access to an air hammer so I guess I will keep trying to beat it out..It probably wont work because it seems the bolt has become one with the bushing..my other option is to go up to summit and see if they have lower control arms and bolts and if they do, I will sawzall the control arms off and install new ones..i really dont want to do that, but I'm running out of ideas

Whoa.... You don't need to cut off your control arms! I recomend the air hammer because that's the easiest way to remove those bastards! You do have other options though. Go down to your local hardware store & buy the best sawzall blades you can find. ( I think I used 18teeth per inch ) Plan on using three blades per cut, keep oiling the blades as you make your cut's. ( it makes them last a little longer )
Far as replacement bolts go.... I got mine at a local heavy equipment shop. Their grade 8 bolts & the threads are the same dyameter as the bushing. ( I couldn't find the OEM metric shoulder bolts anywhere localy ) Just take one of your non hacked bolts with you & someone should be able to help you with selecting the right one.
 
I couldn't get mine out either but when I did the middle of the bolt was all skinny from being rusted up. I ended up using a 4' piece of rebar, had my friend hold the end of it on the end of the bolt, with me on the other side with a sledge hammer, a few good wacks and the thing started moving. Of course I didn't wail on it that it would slip and hurt my friend, but just hard and concentrated enough to move the bolt, once it was fluch with the chassis, I took something small (I forget what I used) and hammered the bolt through more while my friend turned it with a ratchet. Eventually we got them out.
 
An air hammer won't matter....if the bolts are seized, he shouldn't be re-using them anyways. Turn the bolt while beating it out, it will come out no matter how bad it is. Don't mess with a grinder or sawzall, seen people try it many times. Why throw $$ at it? Cutting either end of the bolt off doesn't get you anywhere...its seized right in the middle of the shaft. When you get it out, you'll see. The bolt will be tapererd towards the middle. Get yourself some new bolts if they look like this. I've taken out about 20 rearends..only had probably two that the bolts came right out on. When you reinstall them, use some grease.
 
Follow up to the control arm bolts..THEY SUCK!!! I tried everything and finally said fu$% it and went to summit and bought bbk lower control arms but the damn things didnt come with the bolts and they said they dont know where to get them..anyhow, I got back to the garage and sawed the damn control arms in half!!(that'll teach them!!) I got the rear end out from under there and took a closer look and the bolts that have been giving me hell..those bolts will not come out, they are siezed to the metal thing in the bushing..wont come out, no way in hell..I got the new rear end under the car and the upper control arms bolted to it..so theres not much I can do until I get the bolts from somewhere..I'm going to call Fastenal..they are not far from my house and see what they can do.. Thanks for all the replys! Oh, and I made sure I put never-siezed on every bolt that I put back on so I never have to go through this hell again!
 
Would grinding one end off not be the same as taking the nut off? Then you try to pound it out. If you cannot get the nut off the end What else can you do but cut it or grind it off? If I did not have to mess with grinder or what have you I would not, but I personally do not have any alternatives. Mine too, will not budge. Do tapered bolts make any difference? I do not think it would really matter.Does anyone know offhand what length and size the bolts are? As I cannot bring one if I can't remove it and plan on finding some at work next week.
 
fastenal sells grade 8 5" m-12 bolts for $1.70 a piece got two for mine yesterday! get in there with a sawzall with the 28/teeth an inch blades give a buddy a can of wd-40 and you'll be two minutes on each bolt!