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Lower control arm bushing replacment

  • Thread starter Thread starter hiattwl
  • Start date Start date Nov 24, 2004
H

hiattwl

New Member
Jun 9, 2003
145
0
0
Cullowhee, and Andrews NC
Nov 24, 2004
#1
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #1
Aight, so I take the 5.0 to get an alignment today, and they can't do it because my lower control arm bushings are shot on both sides. What's the easiest way to change them? I have the bushings on order, and my haynes manual makes it seems as if i need 10 million steps to get them out. Does anyone have a faq out there on this, or an easier step by step instruction book. Please let me know, i'll be doing the repairs this weekend. I know the bushings have to be pressed in and out, I have that lined up.

Thanks ahead guys.


Wayne
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Nov 24, 2004
#2
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #2
why not just replace them with something tubular

http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=298&fcmd=item&inmake=all
 
H

hiattwl

New Member
Jun 9, 2003
145
0
0
Cullowhee, and Andrews NC
Nov 24, 2004
#3
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #3
#1 That product you just posted is for the rear, #2, i'm broke, i can hardly afford the bushings alone. I'm a college student for god sakes, lol

Wayne
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Nov 24, 2004
#4
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #4
hiattwl said:
Aight, so I take the 5.0 to get an alignment today, and they can't do it because my lower control arm bushings are shot on both sides. What's the easiest way to change them? I have the bushings on order, and my haynes manual makes it seems as if i need 10 million steps to get them out. Does anyone have a faq out there on this, or an easier step by step instruction book. Please let me know, i'll be doing the repairs this weekend. I know the bushings have to be pressed in and out, I have that lined up.
Click to expand...
Actually, there ARE alot of steps involved in replacing them. It's not impossible, but it can be difficult to do without the right tools. If you haven't done too much repair work on your 'Stang on your own, I would recommend you take it to a shop. It took me forever to change out my front springs, until I figured out how to do it. Now, it's easy to do.

I paid my mechanic to swap my front control arm bushings, before I knew how to. Next time, I'll be doing it myself.

Basic steps are:

--Jack up car and take off wheels (obviously)
--Detach the front sway bar
--Remove brake caliper and hang it by an old coat hanger. Don't just let it hang by the brake line, you'll damage the line.
--Remove brake rotor
--Put a floor jack under the control arm, then completely remove the strut. I suggest removing the top nut (in the engine compartment) first, then the two on the bottom.
--Remove front spring

I've heard of a few ways to remove the spring. Be careful here, the springs hold a lot of kinetic energy. Your average spring compressor won't work on the front springs of a Mustang. Been there, tried that. I went the expensive route, and bought the Ford-specific spring compressor. Two other ways are:

1. Lower the control arm with the floor jack, until there isn't any pressure left on the control arm. The spring should be loose enough to just pull out.
2. Keep the floor jack right under the spring. Remove the bolts that hold the control arm on, then gently lower the control arm and spring until the tension is off the spring.

Any input from anyone else, on how to remove the front springs?
 
H

hiattwl

New Member
Jun 9, 2003
145
0
0
Cullowhee, and Andrews NC
Nov 24, 2004
#5
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #5
I'm well set on a major assortment of tools, just minus the tie rod end separator. see what i was worried about is that my manual says you have to practically remove the steering rack to get the bolts out for the control arm. I guess i'll just have to see wont i?
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Nov 24, 2004
#6
  • Nov 24, 2004
  • #6
hiattwl said:
I'm well set on a major assortment of tools, just minus the tie rod end separator. see what i was worried about is that my manual says you have to practically remove the steering rack to get the bolts out for the control arm. I guess i'll just have to see wont i?
Click to expand...
Guess so. I haven't removed the control arms myself, but I HAVE replaced the bushings on the steering rack. A big PITA, but manageable. Just loosen the two bolts on the rack, and pull. The power steering cooler is attached by a pair of rubber hoses, so you won't break them. If you want to be safe, unscrew the bolts holding the cooler in place, and you'll have a bit more leeway.

You can remove one side of the rack, then tilt it up or down to get enough room to clear the bolt. Sounds like you'll be able to handle this one just fine. Let us know how it goes.
 
H

hiattwl

New Member
Jun 9, 2003
145
0
0
Cullowhee, and Andrews NC
Nov 25, 2004
#7
  • Nov 25, 2004
  • #7
Any special way to pop the tie rod ends loose on my car? Can i use one of the standard fork style that i can put on my air hammer??

Wayne
 
H

hiattwl

New Member
Jun 9, 2003
145
0
0
Cullowhee, and Andrews NC
Nov 26, 2004
#8
  • Nov 26, 2004
  • #8
What specific tool do i need to pop the tie rod ends loose? My haynes manual shows a strane C type puller. Can i use a fork style? and if so, what size?
 
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