Lower Control Arms

I have Granetelli upper and lower rear control arms. They significantly stiffened up the rear end and eliminated the wheel hop. They have been on my 86 for 2 years, and I really like them. I'm sure there are some out there that cost more and have a better name, but if you go with the non-adjustable tubular control arms I don't see how there is a big difference between them other than materials used.
 
I run the blue oval series...same as teh Granetelli style. As stated above buddy they do help plant the rear end on a budget...not to mention the red just seemed to go nicely with the exterior :)
 
I also run the granetelli upper and lower control arms. They do a great job , and the car hooks great with a 1.60 60 ft. and pulling the front right tire a few inches.
 
I also run the granetelli upper and lower control arms. They do a great job , and the car hooks great with a 1.60 60 ft. and pulling the front right tire a few inches.
 
I dunno, I have a pair of unknown LCA (I'm pretty sure they are the blue oval set as they look just like them) w/ polyeurothane bushings. I can't blame them for sure but shortly after I bought my car (the previous owner had just installed them) I noticed crackes in my TB. They have since been welded up and reinforced, but those LCA still make me nervous.

I'm no corner carving nor did I beat on the car much more than a burnout of two when I first got her. But I think they are stressfull enough on stock TBs that they could aggravate weakspots or even cause cracking in themselves with just normal street driving. The woman who mended up my boxes said that they had a slight twist in them as well.

Anyway I've got a set of MM LCAs on my wishlist. Not sure if these guys are still hurting my ride or if they ever were at all. Just passing on my ancedote.
 
DMAN302 said:
If you're a corver carver that is definately as posibility..but straight liners like myself it's not a big concearn.

don't fool yourself. If you drive your car on the street, period stay away from those, they bind like crazy and you don't have to be a corner carver.
 
can anyone tell me if they have any pros or cons to the southside lift bars? i put a set on my car and then it was banging the floor pan really bad. so i took it to a so called performance mustang shop locally and when i got the car back it didnt hit anymore. i crawled under it to see what they did to correct it and they wellded the southsides to the rear end mounting brackets. does anyone know if this is the correct way to fix that problem or if it was just a quick fix for them to make some money. i personally didnt think that welding them to the rearend is right, can you guys help me?
 
uhhhh, the spherical bushing goes at one end (the rear end if I remember right) and the poly pushing at the other end, hence the poly bushings are NOT at both ends.


it's not the poly material in the torque box that rips them apart, rather it's the bind that is created by having polyeurothane at both ends of the arm that will rip the torque box apart. So long that one end of the arm has a spherical bushing, that will provide the flexibility needed.
 
Darkwriter77 said:
I often wonder, what did everyone do all those years before MM came out with this almighty spherical bushing design? Just weld the snot out of the torque boxes and hope for the best?

I think its more along the lines of MM recognizing a problem and then coming up with a good idea to prevent it from happening in the future.