Lower Control Arms

87ttopstang

Member

Apr 14, 2003

342

0

17

Ontario, Canada

Nov 21, 2006

#1

• Nov 21, 2006

• #1

Anyone running UPR lower control arms or Granatelli lower control arms? Looking at buying some soon and wanted some opinions before I buy them.

Anyone using UPR uppers?

 

silverstangman

New Member

Mar 26, 2003

413

0

0

Eastern NC

Nov 21, 2006

#2

• Nov 21, 2006

• #2

i wouldn't recommend granatelli anything, as i've heard nothing but bad things about em. i'd recommend either steeda or upr as they are both fairly priced.

 

87ttopstang

Member

Apr 14, 2003

342

0

17

Ontario, Canada

Nov 21, 2006

#3

• Nov 21, 2006

• #3

No one here is running either one of these? What other types you guys have?

 

Redfire 05

New Member

Apr 6, 2005

236

0

0

Lubbock, TX

Nov 21, 2006

#4

• Nov 21, 2006

• #4

I have Granetelli upper and lower rear control arms. They significantly stiffened up the rear end and eliminated the wheel hop. They have been on my 86 for 2 years, and I really like them. I'm sure there are some out there that cost more and have a better name, but if you go with the non-adjustable tubular control arms I don't see how there is a big difference between them other than materials used.

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Nov 21, 2006

#5

• Nov 21, 2006

• #5

I run the blue oval series...same as teh Granetelli style. As stated above buddy they do help plant the rear end on a budget...not to mention the red just seemed to go nicely with the exterior

 

aod92

New Member

Jun 4, 2005

104

0

0

Nov 21, 2006

#6

• Nov 21, 2006

• #6

I also run the granetelli upper and lower control arms. They do a great job , and the car hooks great with a 1.60 60 ft. and pulling the front right tire a few inches.

 

aod92

New Member

Jun 4, 2005

104

0

0

Nov 21, 2006

#7

• Nov 21, 2006

• #7

I also run the granetelli upper and lower control arms. They do a great job , and the car hooks great with a 1.60 60 ft. and pulling the front right tire a few inches.

 

88gt

Founding Member

Aug 2, 1999

794

0

0

Drillers cabin

Nov 21, 2006

#8

• Nov 21, 2006

• #8

I run Factory Five uppers and lowers.

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

2,378

22

49

Nov 22, 2006

#9

• Nov 22, 2006

• #9

just make sure it doesn't have polyeurothane at BOTH ends if it's a street car. That will rip out your torque boxes.

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Nov 22, 2006

#10

• Nov 22, 2006

• #10

v8only said:

just make sure it doesn't have polyeurothane at BOTH ends if it's a street car. That will rip out your torque boxes.

Click to expand...

If you're a corver carver that is definately as posibility..but straight liners like myself it's not a big concearn.

 

DmnStr8

Member

Apr 16, 2005

0

0

16

NH

Nov 22, 2006

#11

• Nov 22, 2006

• #11

I dunno, I have a pair of unknown LCA (I'm pretty sure they are the blue oval set as they look just like them) w/ polyeurothane bushings. I can't blame them for sure but shortly after I bought my car (the previous owner had just installed them) I noticed crackes in my TB. They have since been welded up and reinforced, but those LCA still make me nervous.

I'm no corner carving nor did I beat on the car much more than a burnout of two when I first got her. But I think they are stressfull enough on stock TBs that they could aggravate weakspots or even cause cracking in themselves with just normal street driving. The woman who mended up my boxes said that they had a slight twist in them as well.

Anyway I've got a set of MM LCAs on my wishlist. Not sure if these guys are still hurting my ride or if they ever were at all. Just passing on my ancedote.

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

2,378

22

49

Nov 22, 2006

#12

• Nov 22, 2006

• #12

DMAN302 said:

If you're a corver carver that is definately as posibility..but straight liners like myself it's not a big concearn.

Click to expand...

don't fool yourself. If you drive your car on the street, period stay away from those, they bind like crazy and you don't have to be a corner carver.

 

LEE93COBRA

New Member

Apr 12, 2000

1,929

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0

Alabama

Nov 22, 2006

#13

• Nov 22, 2006

• #13

another vote on the Factory 5 control arms

 

aleborjas

New Member

Sep 11, 2005

610

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0

Nov 23, 2006

#14

• Nov 23, 2006

• #14

i'm runing Lakewood lower control arms...

 

M

momoslxstang

New Member

Nov 25, 2006

4

0

0

Nov 25, 2006

#15

• Nov 25, 2006

• #15

can anyone tell me if they have any pros or cons to the southside lift bars? i put a set on my car and then it was banging the floor pan really bad. so i took it to a so called performance mustang shop locally and when i got the car back it didnt hit anymore. i crawled under it to see what they did to correct it and they wellded the southsides to the rear end mounting brackets. does anyone know if this is the correct way to fix that problem or if it was just a quick fix for them to make some money. i personally didnt think that welding them to the rearend is right, can you guys help me?

 

M

momoslxstang

New Member

Nov 25, 2006

4

0

0

Nov 25, 2006

#16

• Nov 25, 2006

• #16

does anyone think that adjustable upper control arms would have helped with the floor banging problem? thanks guys

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

1

0

Deland, Florida

Nov 25, 2006

#17

• Nov 25, 2006

• #17

v8only said:

just make sure it doesn't have polyeurothane at BOTH ends if it's a street car. That will rip out your torque boxes.

Click to expand...

You realize that the MM arms with sphereical bearing has the bushing side in the torque box, the same as the arms with bushings on both sides.

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

2,378

22

49

Nov 25, 2006

#18

• Nov 25, 2006

• #18

uhhhh, the spherical bushing goes at one end (the rear end if I remember right) and the poly pushing at the other end, hence the poly bushings are NOT at both ends.


it's not the poly material in the torque box that rips them apart, rather it's the bind that is created by having polyeurothane at both ends of the arm that will rip the torque box apart. So long that one end of the arm has a spherical bushing, that will provide the flexibility needed.

 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

5 Year Member

Jul 1, 2005

314

281

134

Apache Junction, AZ

Nov 25, 2006

#19

• Nov 25, 2006

• #19

I often wonder, what did everyone do all those years before MM came out with this almighty spherical bushing design? Just weld the snot out of the torque boxes and hope for the best?

 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter

Oct 28, 2004

3,355

207

114

Ohio

Nov 26, 2006

#20

• Nov 26, 2006

• #20

Darkwriter77 said:

I often wonder, what did everyone do all those years before MM came out with this almighty spherical bushing design? Just weld the snot out of the torque boxes and hope for the best?

Click to expand...

I think its more along the lines of MM recognizing a problem and then coming up with a good idea to prevent it from happening in the future.